The Auswine Forum

What's the opposite of a 'baller' wine? Probably this

• 2012 A.VI.P. S.p.A Barolo (own label of a budget-focused UK supermarket) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (07/06/2017)
  Very light and youthful crimson colour, with a band of bricking already visible at the rim.
  
  Not too much on the nose, more tar than roses, with the fruit somewhat hidden until swirling releases some red cherry aromas.
  
  Somewhat sour cherry fruit vies with surprising tannic grip and vanillan oak softens this wine for wider appeal. A little tar sits more in the background and with the vanillan oak comes across more like caramel. I can see the reason for the oak seasoning, but there is a real danger you remove the point of using nebbiolo grapes. Moderate acidity keeps reasonable freshness and combined with the tannins, it gives the wine a dry & grippy finish dominated by the vanilla rather than fruit.
  
  An interesting wine, in the sense that if you're making a wine for a supermarket audience, you make decisions that purists / enthusiasts may take issue with. My defence of their approach, is I don't think the fruit has the depth required to outlive the tannins, so they've used the oak to give it a little more approachability. A better option for the purists would have been gentler extraction, neutral or even no oaking and bottling as Nebbiolo d'Alba or Langhe Nebbiolo, where it could have made a decent and representative wine. However they need the Barolo name to sell it above £6. This is Barolo in name, but not in the spirit of the appellation, but those are the commercial decisions that happen.

Ian S wrote:What's the opposite of a 'baller' wine? Probably this

• 2012 A.VI.P. S.p.A Barolo (own label of a budget-focused UK supermarket)[i]

Oh Ian... what have you done...

Not one I'd have chosen myself (this was a gift), but interesting nonetheless to see what is done in a tight commercial environment.

Ian S wrote:Not one I'd have chosen myself (this was a gift), but interesting nonetheless to see what is done in a tight commercial environment.

ALDI in Australia is doing some own label wines-sometimes Supermarkets can be a good starting point for the inquisitive

Perhaps, but can also give consumers a very atypical experience. I'd certainly not recommend the wine, but I did find it interesting in how they'd applied make-up in attempt to appeal, but had rather overdone it.

Ian S wrote:Perhaps, but can also give consumers a very atypical experience.

Ooh yeah!
I have had downright faulty wines
Actually very educational

Another 1996 Einaudi Barolo nei Cannubi tonight, from a case that has producer a mixed performance. This a little muddied on the nose on opening (now - 2 to 3 hours later cleaned up a lot), but on the palate the fruit retains brightness of relative youth, but with some complexity from fennel / star anise. Good acidity keeping it alive and firm but not obstructive tannins giving some grip.

I've been away for a week or so so have quite the hankering for Nebbiolo. Found a Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2013 still open in the wine fridge and not gassed; after nearly 2 weeks the wine was fine and not a hint of oxidization. Real show for the night an older Barbaresco.

Ceretto Barbaesco Asij 1985- Asij is Piedmont dialect for Asili- from where this wine sees a lot of it's fruit sourced from the lower slopes. Discontinued label from 2010 with two bottlings now- regular and Asili.

Poured into a half decanter; browning at the deeper edges though lively. When it about right, after a few hours, double-decanted back into the original bottle. Beautiful autumnal aromatics with dry mint leaf and thyme, faint tobacco and old wood and beef. Nearly full bodied in the mouth with fresh licorice fruit on the edges, very old Bordeaux in its very long finish with the rusty- piquant-citrus acidity indicating the wine's Barbaresco locale.

93pts

That looks like a lot of sediment Jamie?

Yes, this wine throws incredible sediment. Yesterday's bottle had been standing for four weeks and the bottle crust still presents during the pour.

Doesn't detract from the wine though.

Well no faulting the standing regime - 4 weeks should have been much more than enough. Maybe time to invest in a decanting cradle (I jest). At least it seems to settle in the glass.

Not sure if that would help with bottle crust? You could watch the crust sliding off the bottle in the case of this wine.

I always find the longer the standing time the better. Long sea journey to HKG.

I really like this producer and the 2007. Though a bottle last night did show a little heat- perhaps not the best wine for a Hong Kong summer.

Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Nebbiolo 2010- Is entering a long drinking window. I think there's some excitement about with Langhe Nebbiolo and I can see why here.

There's an almost typical Barbaresco kaleidoscope of dark flavours and nuances, tar, herbs and earth. Easy going and almost supple now on the palate, I like the delicate rose and strawberry notes that sit comfortably on a long palate run prior a bitter citrus acidity bite with fine tannins.

A producer that needs time to show it's best but wow, this could sit proud in a formal Barbaresco line-up!

92pts

Since Olek Bondonio's wine in the frame, I just got this email from him. I've ordered 100kg of wine oddly- my freight allowance.

He's another producer whose wines shine in time in my experience since the 2007 vintage yet I feel gets rated down by the wider wine press. Just one or two years in bottle make a massive difference!

I'll make a good mix for you, off course some barbaresco 2014...Roncagliette /bott and Starderi /bott
Some Barbera 2015 /bott 1'5 LT Magnums and if you like some Dolcetto 2016 /bott..
Unfortunately the Pelvarega will skip the 2'16 vintage....but will strike back from the 2017 ..cross finger

HAve a good flight
Olek

JamieBahrain wrote:Since Olek Bondonio's wine in the frame, I just got this email from him. I've ordered 100kg of wine oddly- my freight allowance.

He's another producer whose wines shine in time in my experience since the 2007 vintage yet I feel gets rated down by the wider wine press. Just one or two years in bottle make a massive difference!

I'll make a good mix for you, off course some barbaresco 2014...Roncagliette /bott and Starderi /bott
Some Barbera 2015 /bott 1'5 LT Magnums and if you like some Dolcetto 2016 /bott..
Unfortunately the Pelvarega will skip the 2'16 vintage....but will strike back from the 2017 ..cross finger

HAve a good flight
Olek

Sounds like a great order, wish I had grabbed more of the 2014 Roncagliette but the wallet was bare when the retail releases went down here.

Nice to have the chance to mix in a good cross-section of wines. For us mere mortals flying can often mean just a handful of bottles and the urge is often to choose fancier bottles to make it feel worthwhile.

I decanted this very carefully and it delivered well. Classic old Barolo tar and roses with admirable purity !

Fontanafredda Barolo 1974- last night was texturally beautiful and lush though the aromatics where a little rasin/caramel like. Very easy drink to like.

JamieBahrain wrote:Fontanafredda Barolo 1974- last night was texturally beautiful and lush though the aromatics where a little rasin/caramel like. Very easy drink to like.

Sounds wonderful. I've got a bottle of 1982. Any experience with this vintage?

Ozzie W wrote:

JamieBahrain wrote:Fontanafredda Barolo 1974- last night was texturally beautiful and lush though the aromatics where a little rasin/caramel like. Very easy drink to like.

Sounds wonderful. I've got a bottle of 1982. Any experience with this vintage?

Leafing through Broadbent's Vintage wine vol II this evening, what do I stumble on, but a 1988 note for a 1982 Barolo from Fontanafredda. "A huge deep fruity long-term wine" (****).

Fontanafredda certainly had some ups and rather too many downs, but that TN is one that sounds rather promising!

JamieBahrain wrote:

thank goodness you have the correct bottle opener
i am yet to have a failure .......

Any notes on the Albino rocca Jamie ?
Cheers ..

Sorry Hunter, just vibes. Best of the three and fresher than the 2007 !

I really like Albino Rocca and visited a number of times prior to Angelo's fatal plane crash. Angelo never spoke any English but he was a quite affable and always chuffed that folks visit the winery from afar. The daughters were lovely ladies and I hope they have success with the winery in the future. They seem to be going well by all accounts?

I'm a fan of Albino Rocca as well, very good range including a very good cortese and Moscato d'Asti.
1995 is an interesting vintage, running the risk of being a bit tight and lean, but not without potential - that should be coming through in the successes now it's gone past 20 years age.

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Barolo 2004
Big, masculine Barolo. The alcohol heat and rather drying tannin suppresses a lot of the more subtle elements of the wine. There are some dried rose and balsamic elements, but the hints if blackberry fruit are swamped by the wall of booze and very dry tannin.

Maybe in an awkward stage? Maybe just too big for its own good...

2004 is a bestial vintage. Many seem to think it's a long way off.

I'm presenting a magnum of 2004 this week I'm thinking of skipping as it's too young - a Silvio Grasso.

I have had very positive experiences with other 2004s over the last couple of years... 2006 on the other hand is impenetrable right now IMO.

Geez the 2013's are fast moving.

Just took up Sandrone's two Barolo's - 2013 Barolo Le Vigne & 2013 Barolo Aleste ( formerly Cannubi Boschis ).