TN: November 2019

[Ian S]

Super notes - many thanks for posting them. Some thoughts, musings etc. from me in red

As this night was in november, thought it fitting to put here

Theme was 'Piedmont' and as always, all wines served blind:

Wine # 1- 2013 Castello di Verduno S-ciopet Brut Rose
Pale Salmon Pink in colour, is this a sparkling Rose`? If it is, BRAVO!
On the nose some aftershave florals, dont think its alcohol blowing off, but it was very interesting. Yeasty, and on the strawberry spectrum. Fine....very fine mousse. Lovely soft cloud/pillow like bubble, so very satisfying. Not sharp or acidic. This is VERY dry, bone dry that just adds to the complexity. Feels old world, but missing that backbone of acidity to be French. Feels Italian and has these dry dusty tannins which i found really compelling. Not sure i have experienced that in a sparkling before. Commune from Verduno....... while this would cellar a little, no point as its drinking so well now.
Interesting. We visited them back in 2012, but didn't taste this. Any idea what the grape(s) are? Strawberry might suggest Freisa, but Pelaverga and Nebbiolo both other options, and all could offer tannins

Wine # 2 - 2015 La Palazzina Bramaterra Balmi Bioti
Wow what extraordinary colour here. Bright and ultra clear red. Beautiful purity of fruit that isnt over worked,no wine making tricks, just vineyard expression letting the fruit do all the talking. So burgundy like. Feels very young. Bright red Cherry, red currants and
aromatics, soft tannins.... stunning wine.
Not over oaked, not overly acidic, very mineral type notes as well. low alcohol of 12.50% and was all the better for it. Love this style of Barolo
A typo above - not a Barolo, but a nebbiolo-led (in this case it appears to be 100% nebbiolo) from Northern Piemonte. I love these northern wines, being leaner yet still sturdy for cellaring. I fully agree that there can be great nebbiolo wines at 12.5%


Wine # 5 - 2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo
The first Barbaresco of the night! (although i didnt know it at the time). This seem young, cant believe its 14 years old. Acid & Tannin still battling it out and quite prominent. Years left in the tank. Lovely herbaceous wine here. Bay leaf and sage mainly. Red florals, raspberries and red fruits and some plums. I had a little coffee nose as well and that minerally backbone that just tied everything together. Wonderful stuff!
Cool, I had a bottle of this given to me, a vintage that by-passed me, and I found out later it was very variable. This looks like a great result


Wine # 8- 2010 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi Verduno
To me, this wine is the reason I love the region so much. A masterclass in purity and elegance. 100% Traditionalist here, no fancy winemaking tricks, no masking or hiding oak behind the fruit, surely this is what the gods drink. Cannot get over the purity of red fruits here, is this Vineyard expression or Nebb expression?. Again clear and bright red. Raspberries, Violets, Tar, tobacco,.... and OH that balance. In perfect balance and harmony. Has a little spice at the end with some fennel hints.
A favourite of the brains of the operation - IIRC their blend across vineyards, but not intended to be a simple lesser wine, but rather an offering that aims for similar quality to the single vineyards, but in the (almost defunct) tradition of blending Barolo across sites in the manner that is practiced at Bartolo Mascarello



Wine # 13 - the 'Ring in' - 2007 S.C Pannell Nebbiolo - Adelaide Hills
You know what, this held its own against the Italians. Was very easy to see the Neb characters in this wine. Tar, Earth, liquorice, roses and sweet red fruit. Not a knockout superstar, but for $ 60 retail on current vintage its not bad drinking. Real question is will a $60 Langhe be just as good or better?
I've tried a couple of bottles (not sure which vintage), but I agree it's a good wine and it does show the grape off well. Would I blind guess it as Australia or Piemonte? I don't know, I'm not sure my blind tasting skills are that great, but I am sure it wouldn't be obvious


Overall......... my impressions of all the wines (bar mine) were that "All roads lead to Piedmont!" Im very happy to be shifting my
cellar to Italian wines and think there is still some genuine value in some producers still. How long that will happen is anyone's guess.

There is value, though if seeking big names of Barolo and Barbaresco, then a number are already pretty pricey. Plenty of good smaller producers making good wines and new ones emerge every year. Roero is worth a look, though I do find many of them a little heavy on the french oak barrique and a little warm-fruited for my tastes. I much prefer the stuff further north, including Ghemme/Gattinara and nearby villages such as Fara. Often blends, adding Croatina and Vespolina in as minor %s to support the nebbiolo. Vespolina is also worth trying in its own right if you ever get the chance, and can offer wonderful value + cellaring prospects. Boca and others seem to be gaining much more coverge now, with some impressive wines and some good value... for now.

Whites have often been dismissed, and I'm not a huge fan of Favorita or Arneis, but do try Timorasso if you get the chance. Grown east of Barolo near to Tortona, it's a proper cellaring white of no little complexity. Often with the Derthona label

and all roads do lead to Piemonte - so get yourself over there! We've visited many times, including a few trips to the Langhe to stay in and taste Barolo / Barbaresco, but also Ghemme, Torino, Cuneo, Bubbio, Asti, Alba (and around). Wonderful food, cultured yet friendly people, plus great wines. Every trip has been special.

Also of note that I used Zalto Burgundy Glasses which worked an absolute treat, and I didnt even break one *touch wood*

Also this night was very educational for me as realised/confirmed im a Traditionalist. Love the wines more on the pure fruit profile than oak.

[JamieBahrain]

In the last five years I’m rarely disappointed with 2005 Barolo and Barbaresco.

Expectation is never high and price has been embarrassingly low. What ever it lacks to the critics and their early calls or drinkers since, there’s a cool acidity that preserves and carries whatever beauty their was well into this decade. The Produtorri collectors box is with hunting . Great for an offline - one of each Cru.

There is so much upswing in the region I’m not yet concerned about prices and actually welcome some appreciation as I believe it will drive even more upswing ( easier said living out of AUS )

Have to add, last night I did a long flight and in between long range radar sweeps of empty skies, I read Halliday. Jaw dropping the prices of my old favourites - Old Block and Langi for example and even the unheard of names north of $100. Piedmont wines are still comparative value in Oz

[Luke W]

Seraphino Sharktooth Shiraz 2014: Steve Maglieri hasn't lost his mojo. I remember drinking his shirazs from the 70's and thinking that they were wonderful but this is in a class above those. Beautiful dark fruits, classy vanillin oak, a balance like Nadia Comenici and a seduction not seen since 9 and a half weeks.

[sjw_11]

balance like Nadia Comenici and a seduction not seen since 9 and a half weeks.

[sjw_11]

Rounding out (most of) the second half of November...

• 2017 Francois d'Allaines Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis de Champs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (11/25/2019)
  Mid red with a touch of purple. Really vibrant red fruit on the nose. Great purity and balance. Nice acid line. Delicious. (92 pts.)
• 2012 G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne (11/23/2019)
  This is a blend of 72pc Pinot but I would not have picked it. Very fresh and citrus driven. Relatively gentle bubbles. Crisp acidity. A bit simple now- the question is, will time enhance it? Good value on sale from Carrefour at €28. (90 pts.)
• 2015 Les Hauts de Smith - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (11/23/2019)
  Mid red. A little disjointed at first but with more air this gives a nice nose of sweet red fruits. A bit thin in the mouth, the fruit not quite balancing the tannins. Probably worth giving more time, I feel it’s a bit dumb right now- or maybe a less good bottle? (88 pts.)
• 2016 Domaine les Goubert Gigondas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas (11/21/2019)
  Deep red. Complex nose. There’s a lot going on here. Dark red fruit, plums, dark cherry at first. This gives way to a green, undergrowth like note. Touch of vanilla, hint of varnish. Some barnyard as well. A tiny bit of Brett perhaps? On the palate it opens with sweet red fruit followed by surprisingly firm, fuzzy tannins. Good value. (91 pts.)
• 2016 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (11/21/2019)
  First of a six pack. Medium purple red. Very pretty nose with lots of sweet purple fruit. Plums, violets, purple jubes. Smooth and even on the palate. Juicy red fruit, finishing fleshy and fresh. Delicious easy drinking, albeit a bit simple. (90 pts.)
• 2018 Clos Culombu Vin de Corse Calvi Blanc - France, Corsica, Vin de Corse Calvi (11/20/2019)
  Quite pale, yellow/green. This is fermented and aged only in stainless steel. Not knowing this wine my first thought on smelling was more Italian than French (ah its Vermentino) before I realized of course Corsica is closer to Italy than France anyway! Fresh fruit salad with herbaceous undertones on the nose. A touch of citrus and sweet nectarine as well. The palate adds a bit of broad apricot as well, with a touch of phenolic grip, although it finishes with a zippy line of bracing acidity. Not super value at c€18 although the cellar door price of €14.20 looks fair. Pretty decent juice. (89 pts.)
• 2015 Bodegas Elías Mora Toro Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (11/19/2019)
  Deep garnet red with purple hues. Vibrant nose of dark cherry, vanilla, and plum. A touch of spice as well. Juicy and even in the mouth with lots of red fruit and gently grippy tannin. Great mid week drinking and excellent value. I suspect you could keep this for at least a few years without a problem but it drinks very well now. (91 pts.)
• 2018 Bodegas Los Bermejos Malvasía Volcánica Seco - Spain, Canary Islands, Lanzarote (11/19/2019)
  This is made from Malvasia Volcanica which is apparently an indigenous Lanzarote variety being a cross of Malvasia and the local Marmajuelo. Pale yellow/green. Very fresh and attractive nose. Lots of citrus, cut grass and mineral undertones. Reminiscent of Albariño or good Verdelho. On the palate there is a pleasing weight of lemon citrus and even a hint of honey- slightly rounder and fuller than the nose suggests, although it finishes clean and very moreish. Delicious. No idea about aging but would be excellent now with crumbed white bait or the like. (91 pts.)
• 2016 Au Pied du Mont Chauve Montagny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny (11/18/2019)
  Mid yellow colour. Fresh nose of cut citrus, white nectarine and the impression of juicy acidity. Clean and zippy in the mouth with some more rounded stone fruit characters giving way to a sharp but balanced line of acid to close. Delicious now, but could potentially gather a bit more weight with a couple more years. Commendable value. (91 pts.)
• 2012 Marco Abella Priorat Loidana - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (11/17/2019)
  “Mainly” a blend of Garnacha and Carigan which means (checking their site) possibly 55pc and 35pc respectively with 10pc Cabernet (if the 2012 was the same as 2016!). Bright ruby red with some purple tinges. Some bright red berries and Grenache confection on the nose, with a touch of black currant and green notes as well. Still very youthful and sweet fruited in the mouth with quite grippy tannins. More time could still benefit. That said, very drinkable now. Great value for €14. (90 pts.)
• 2011 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore (11/16/2019)
  Fairly deep red color with some bricking. Immediately serious nose. Lots of classic Cabernet hall marks- black currant, some leafy characters, a touch of plum presumably from the merlot. A touch of leather and cedar as well. While the tannins remain firm this is looking more approachable now. Absent the tannic grip this could make a fairly tricky ringer in a Bordeaux tasting. On the second day the more primary notes had faded slightly which makes me wonder whether the tannins might out live the fruit but if I had more I’d probably leave another year or two before broaching again. (94 pts.)
• 2016 Bodega Numanthia Toro Termes - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (11/16/2019)
  Purple red. Big, youthful nose. Lots of sweet red/purple fruit, plums and vanilla. In the mouth there is gobs of juicy red fruit supported by surprisingly grippy tannins. Nice wine, very drinkable albeit a bit sweet fruited and one dimensional to score higher. (90 pts.)
• 2017 Bodegas Murua Rioja Blanco Fermentado en Barrica - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (11/16/2019)
  Blend of Viura, Malvasia and Grenache blanc. Fermented in new French oak. 7,803 bottles produced. Pale yellow. Rich and oily nose with citrus, lanolin and toasty oak characters. Round and full in the mouth. Perhaps lacking a touch of freshness. (87 pts.)
• 2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva, Selección Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (11/15/2019)
  Garnet red. You can’t escape the hype of this release so I know that will colour my views. Still, drinking this immediately after the 2009 this is noticeably fresher and more bold. Vanilla cherry coke on the nose, opening with more air into a leathery high toned red berry character I feel is how I see the house style. Fresh and clean on the palate. Slightly more tannin grip than the 2009 although it shares the former's crunchy acidity. Better on day 2. (93 pts.)
• 2009 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (11/14/2019)
  Blood red. Classic rioja nose. Red cherries, a touch of varnish, some leathery complexity. Round and a little bit developed for the age. Bright red fruit in the mouth. Spiky acid line. Nice balance and depth. (90 pts.)

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