rmack wrote:Hi all, I'm going to be spending three days in Barolo and barbaresco in a couple of weeks time with the intention of visiting two producers each day.
Is anyone able to recommend some cantinas for me to contact and arrange appointments with? My Italian is not good at all so I'd be looking for producers that can speak ok English.
Thanks very much.
Rob
Hi Rob
If you want to find out who has English speakers, days they'll take visitors, whether there is a tasting fee, etc. then the excellent Alba-based tourist office have an extensive listing
http://www.langheroero.it They even started a booking service which had no charge except for no shows which seems fair.
It's easy to compile a list of 'must see' producers, but I'd recommend selecting only half the wineries by what you know today. Then grab the Langhe Roero site, plus google maps: "cantina" + "<the village of the winery you chose>". Then scout around them for other names and you'll often find 2-3 in easy walking distance. By planning this way, the designated driver can park up at (e.g.) the lunchtime restaurant, and can taste freely in the morning. A good long lunch later and maybe a *walk or another winery visit where they don't taste, and they've been part of the experience but are still safe to drive. Have you worked out where you'll be based? Ideally you could have one day where the car never moves.
* the walking is excellent, and because of the typically shared vineyard ownership, the vineyards are almost all open to walk through. It is very enjoyable to stroll through seeing a new famous vineyard name appear every 5 mins. There is a good local walking map for about €8 (from the local tourist offices) though if aiming for a major landmark such as La Morra or Castiglione Falletto, then it's difficult to get lost.
Do try what Italian you have - the locals are very forgiving of garbled attempts.
Tourism. I'm a little hypocritical, but I don't like the company of too many tourists in Italy. The more mass tourism hits, the more I just want to leave and go somewhere else. Barolo (the village) is starting to get to me like this, and there are now regular coach parties and much that now caters for / targets them. Barbaresco is nowhere near as bad, but still gets coaches turn up. The other villages (Verduno, Rodda, Monforte, Serralunga, Castiglione, Novello, Treiso & Neive etc.) don't suffer this and for me are much better for it. Treiso for instance has 4 restaurants and they are all good in their different ways. Monforte is a great base as there is a bit more normal infrastructure, but also great restaurants (La Salita is indeed good and I'll add Le Case della Saraacca with a wonderful aperitivo spread in the early evening and an interesting selection of wines from enomatic machines). Indeed I'd back up all of ajh's food suggestions (Bovio's pasta is indeed very good, made by the daughter of the place we stayed in Monforte).
Favourite winery visits we've had:
(Lo)Renzo Accomasso - Spartan tasting room, Spartan experience (3 wines tasted in 1.5 hours) yet Renzo is brilliantly old-school, very much a wine farmer rather than vigneron / jet set. No English, so I had to rely on flaky Italian, but it remains one of our most memorable visits anywhere.
Mauro Molino - Near Accomasso in Annuziata (down the hill from La Morra). Moderrnist leaning (they are near the high priest Altare), but these are very good wines, well priced and the children are doing a great job taking greater charge. Really nice / professional family.
Ratti (Annunziata-La Morra) - Actually we didn't much care for the wines, but they proudly took us on a grand tour of their modern cantina, and gave us some free posters (their historic vintage charts sit behind me in the office).
Cascina Ballarin (Annunziata-Barolo) - Awfully bad at keeping appointments, but they do a really great / great value nebbiolo and good/fairly priced Barolo, that often seem to have a hint of tartufo bianco
Marchesi di Barolo (Barolo) - Memorable in a bad way. They appear fat, dumb and happy on the prestige of their name and the visiting tourist trade. We still have a soft spot for them, as it was one of their Barolo wines that was the first that the brains of the operation tasted. I'd expected the worst when we arranged the visit, and they met my expectations.
Giovanni Manzone (Monforte)- Another with that sits between modern & traditional (tbh few now inhabit the zealous extremes and most have learnt to make more subtle changes to tradition). Some very good Barolo wines and another with fine views from the winery
Schiavenza (Serralunga) - A recent discovery and one of the most impressive I've encountered in recent times. Youngish very questing (probably obsessive) family, but who just seem to work very hard. Very hospitable welcome, and their restaurant does classics very well (with an occasional modern twist) for very little money. They also do their own wines by the glass so it can be a nice way to sample with food (Bovio IIRC do the same). However the Barolo wines are the stars and all were impressive (we didn't think much of their Dolcetto/Langhe nebbiolo though)
Ca Nova (Barbaresco) - in the village but based in a sprawling and slightly unkempt set of farm buildings, this was very laid back, yet I really liked the wines and the prices are awfully cheap. One to look out for on restaurant lists as they are IMO very good value.
Albino Rocca (a short walk from Barbaresco) - Used to be a bit modernist, now just really impressive across their pretty wide range. The Barbaresco wines are great, but they also do a brilliant Moscato and Cortese (the grape of Gavi). A fantastic choice for all-round good wines & good hospitality.
Fratelli Grasso (Treiso) - will be unknown I'm sure in Aussie, and indeed would be mostly unknown in Italy. Nice family setup in another slightly unkempt setting. Wonderfully relaxed, but this sort of place illustrates why it's nice to get a variety of names + virtual unknowns. The wines are decent, but not great, but at the prices offered are very good indeed. I did feel a little guilty walking away (~ 3 years ago) with a magnum of 1996 single vineyard Barbaresco for IIRC €25
Burlotto (Verduno) - Great & wide range, engaging winemaker, lovely village and some very fine Barolo wines
Hope this helps, but if you've got a specific village you'll be staying in, then I might have other suggestions.
regards
Ian
P.S. in terms of style (modernist vs Trad) this may be useful. It's a community built resource, and shouldn't be viewed as definitive, nor indeed a statement on quality.
http://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/vie ... 1&t=106291