Wine Spectator Article - Bait & Switch?

[n4sir]

The story has finally got a mention here in the local news:

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/ipad/seei ... 6024996169

[n4sir]

I just got an additional bottle of the 2008 Schild Estate Barossa Shiraz from auction with a laser etched code not covered by previous explanations - AD5210060751.

Did anyone find a method of reading the codes starting with AD, etc?

Cheers,
Ian

EDIT: I found the relevant code again, located around the other side of the bottle, below the right hand side of the back label - it's harder to read, but it's there: L11048. This suggests this particular bottle is from the controversial 2011 bottling run without the 2nd blend addition to the labels.



Etched code located below the RHS of the back label indicating a 2011 bottling - BBS L11048


Etched code located below the RHS of the back label indicating a 2010 bottling - BBS L0347


Etched code located well below the front label near the base - I'm not sure if this has any relevance in identifying bottlings

[Seven]

Hi Ian

Time to buy a new smart phome...

I just got an additional bottle of the 2008 Schild Estate Barossa Shiraz from auction with a laser etched code not covered by previous explanations - AD5210060751.

Did anyone find a method of reading the codes starting with AD, etc?

Cheers,
Ian

EDIT: I found the relevant code again, located around the other side of the bottle, below the right hand side of the back label - it's harder to read, but it's there: L11048. This suggests this particular bottle is from the controversial 2011 bottling run without the 2nd blend addition to the labels.



Etched code located below the RHS of the back label indicating a 2011 bottling - BBS L11048


Etched code located below the RHS of the back label indicating a 2010 bottling - BBS L0347


Etched code located well below the front label near the base - I'm not sure if this has any relevance in identifying bottlings

[n4sir]

Hi Ian

Time to buy a new smart phome...

This wasn't with the old phone this time...

It's not the camera anyway, it's just that the relevant codes are just so damn hard to see, let alone try and get a decent picture of!

The surface has to be perfectly clean, no smudges, and then try and get a bright light at just the right angle to highlight it without reflecting back into the lens (can't use the flash because of this very reason) - it's almost impossible to get a perfect shot, even with a dedicated macro function.