The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[FredericoWines]

E. Pira Chiara Boschis "Mosconi" Barolo 2016- In the background in the snap below, sits a better bottle of three Malvira Roero Nebbiolos reported on earlier. The contrast to Chiara’s winemaking and viticulture is dramatic. The art of elevage is rarely apparent for me in the other Nebbiolo regions of Italy ( unless someone like Conterno invests ).

Anyways and exceptional wine. A modern wine, from a modern vintage ! Please this isn’t a reference to that obsolete notion of “modernism”.

Heady, beautiful, clean and stunning fruit purity. The aromatic complexity which starts with a fruit amalgam and divine herbal notes ends fascinatingly with an elite fruit perfume. Crafted and long, persistence is intense yet the fruit elegance of great Burgundy . It’s definitely Mosconi - with a Monforte drive and cleverly tamed tannins.


96pts +


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Isn't it too young? How long should I decant if open now?

[JamieBahrain]

I have eight bottles and seven in the cellar is fine. I’m fortunate to be well experienced with Chiara’s wines, Mosconi is new and I was keen to try.

I pulled the cork and drank over two days . Depending upon your tolerance to tannin, Chiara Boschis makes approachable wines. That said, integration better in 5 years + and will age for many decades. It is still very powerful Barolo and another heady 2016.

I would not risk missing the exotic aromatics by decanting. Drink over a few days. I am not averse to decanting Barolo- in tasting trials it is more often than not beneficial inside of 20 years - however this wine has an aromatic excellence of the greatest wines in the world and aeration will see some of this subside or mesh intriguing nuance.

[Dragzworthy]

Haven’t tried the 2001 Gramolere so await your notes ! BTW how was Conterno Fantino ? Firmly modern and acceptable to the revellers?

I think G Manzone are underrated producers with a step-up in quality recently .

I’m still in contact with the family if anyone wants a neat tasting experience ( as below )

Alas, Olek Bondonio what’s app me yesterday they are going into lockdown again .

I’ve arrived for a quick stay at Monforte. Hopefully I’ll get a few wineries in but I’m a slow paced tourist preferring to experience the atmosphere of a medieval wine town such as Monforte d’Alba.

http://www.manzonegiovanni.com/

Manzone is a good consideration to look at the area . They are small, very affordable and present over a number of famous Cru’s.

After a quick shower at my apartment in Monforte it’s off to the winery for a tasting with Mauro.

Manzone is another producer that puts to rest the simplicity of the modernist / traditionalist debate . I can’t quite nail their oak regime but they are self-declared traditionalists, minimal interventionists and traditional winemaking , with a modern winery.

Barolo Castelletto 2015- Beautifully ripened fruit with cliche tar and roses and Turkish Delight chocolate notes arising from sweet strawberry/raspberry fruit and spice. This ripeness carries on the palate edges with the wine being long and gently muscular . Lots of joy inside of a decade with 2015 though no doubting cellaring potential .

93pts

Barolo Bricat 2015 is from the top of the Gramolere vineyard, a Cru within as Cru picked only in exceptional vintages .

This is bigger than the 2015 Castelletto despite Gramolere elevation and soil composition usually delivering a more elegant expression.

Concentrated dark tar masking deeper buried red fruit notes, less showy and more retrained than the Castelletto 2015. Latent potential in a powerful yet elegant and long structure- tannins Monforte ripe and firm .

94pt+

Gramolere Barolo 2014- locals are far less critical of the vintage than the rest of the market .

Distinctly perfumed here, cool and classic high notes , lovely tar nuances more open toward an old vintage car engine- rose petals too. Classical austerity , a little lean, time and food will flesh out the wine with raspberry vanilla cream fruit notes .

91pts


Gramolere Riserva 2011- Ripe and perfumed berry mix, deeper Cadbury’s Turkish Delight notes with sweetened walnuts . A very giving wine, rounded and fully loaded with generous Nebbiolo fruit concentrated rather than palate spread - a nice energy keeps interest and freshness .

93pts

Gramolere Riserva 2008- This classic vintage pairs perfectly with Manzone’s house style . Has the ripened fruit notes of Gramolere above though with cool and mineral overtones. Palate is similar - elegant and long - with red fruit focus and delineation beam like. Old fashioned Monforte tannins flood the back palate .

96pts

Gramolere Riserva 1993- vintage engine oil and spiced , well tamed red and black fruit notes . Wove is carried by a calcareous austerity , flavour profile similar to aromatics clings at the edges , light grip in persisting tertiary notes .

95pts

Castelletto Barolo 2007- Excellent plump-ripe amalgamation of red and black fruits with tertiary tobacco like development suggesting it’s in window . Delivered on a long structural package , savoury with mineral undertones, lacks fruit stuffing though food will draw less critics .

92pts

Gramolere Barolo 2010- this is in a lock down but there is still enough to see of its high quality . Black pepper and dry spices , red fruit and tar in a classic mix, compelling structure and balance. Obviously unyielding though with glamorous potential !

94pts +


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Hard to tell much here from 2018 though a step up from 2017 . Love the hard Piedmont cheeses !


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Overall, a visit to Manzone, the highest rating I could recommend for a genuine lover of Barolo .


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Looking toward Castiglione, from the cellar door , overlooking Perno Cru . They will eventually make an individual Barolo from here. I have Perno in my cellar from other producers like G Macarello and I feel Mazone will fit nicely with their style .

The manzone gramolere 2001 case arrived a few days ago and I cracked the first one last night only to find it was madeirized as well...recall this purchase was made in frustration after I had a similar experience with a much older Barolo. I didn't bother opening another one to taste but instead sought the rather uncomplicated comfort of a Tenuta Ulissee Montepulciano to drown my disappointment. Hopefully the remaining 11 bottles in the case yield a far more enlightening experience... particularly with Singapore now in some kind of partial lockdown

[JamieBahrain]

Bugger! If the colour was OK put in the fridge and try in a few days . If browning - down the sink !

[ticklenow1]

I really enjoy the Manzone Langhe Nebbiolo. The wonderful aromatics are the highlight. I also have a few of Manzone Barolo's but can't remember which ones.

Cheers
Ian

[Rossco]

I really enjoy the Manzone Langhe Nebbiolo. The wonderful aromatics are the highlight. I also have a few of Manzone Barolo's but can't remember which ones.

Cheers
Ian

I have 2015 Castelletto, Gramolere & Bricat buried somewhere deep in the cellar. Which reminds me I need to hunt down some 2016's.

[Dragzworthy]

Bugger! If the colour was OK put in the fridge and try in a few days . If browning - down the sink !

Opened a second bottle...same outcome!

Got paranoid, coravin'd a glass from a third bottle and BADA BING! Wonderful tar and roses...amazing bouquet and long lasting flavour.

But now I have a conundrum...I have 9 bottles left and I'm running on a 2:1 bad to good ratio thus far.

I guess one must let the retailer know? It's a UK, HK and Singapore based retailer of repute.

[JamieBahrain]

I cornered their boss on sea transport . Stopped buying from them. They use insulation and reefer ( they say for the expensive gear ) . I could not get a straight answer from them and have acquaintances who worked for them before resigning .

Don’t trust them one bit ! Send the wines back say they are cooked.

[JamieBahrain]

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Permo 2012- I have been a fan, buyer and collector of Mauro’s wines for some time . Stopped a few vintages ago for a number of reasons. Having presented his greatest Cru back to the 70’s, Monprivato, I often wonder if it’s best to appreciate his wines by starting in Perno or Villero? Often Monprivato confuses when mature and if blind - it’s lighter and far more elegant than many expect of the well known label

Perno is their only vineyard in Monforte and it has the winemaker’s stamp of traditional and timeless elegance.

Drank this over a few nights. Typically 2012 in its medium body and medium levels of intensity. It settles on day two whereas earlier acidity and alcohol clashed if familiar with their style - all ended well!

Just lovely ! Redskins, red florals and that classic tar note of vintage engine. Herb and dry rose infused, medium bodied, supple and understated. Warm and long, mentholated red fruits and licorice persist in a long carry built with dusty fine tannin.


93pts +


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[JamieBahrain]

This week I had a few bottles of Domenico Clerico’s marquee wine : Percristina. Both bottles form warm vintages which I think can test the Cru of Mosconi.

I hosted a superb vertical of Clerico’s wines a few weeks ago- I must write it up in time.

Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina 2003- Opens with terrific aromatics including hay, sweet and mellow red and black fruits, light tobacco and light wood notes. Aeration draws a more perfumed delivery. Bold and rich Barolo, never far from a vintage awkwardness with fiery acidity and a sweet and oily carry that can squeal with barrique negativity such a resin and wood astringency.

90pts



Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina 2007- Stamped as a high class international style. Powerful and ripe cherry-plum fruit with earth and cedar. Full bodied, unashamedly, sweet and dark to the core, it struggles to unpeel so early, violets and nutty spice. Over the days the wine’s structure stays consistent with a well shaped finish completing with good fruit persistence consistent with the aromatics.

Some may think this extraordinary, though knowing the style now, best in 10-15 years.

94pts+


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[JamieBahrain]

Bit behind here. Bunch of lovely dinners a few months back I haven’t had the motivation to write up. So easing back onto it thought I’d check in on the 2010 vintage which has seen comments abound of being faster maturing ( than expected )

Pietro Rinaldi Barolo Monvigliero 2010- Wild aromatics firmly in the red spectrum and with a lovely and traditional complexity including rich tobacco leaf and earth. It started a little thin with a mineral earthiness having me concerned about Brett. In time, the best glass had excellent fruit depth and definition, tannins are still raw and grippy. Will be better in time as it builds flesh and the tannin structure softens. Otherwise, the wine requires preparation and food to draw its best now.

92pts+

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[JamieAdelaide]

Wow what a lovely thread this was. Lost all the pics with another dodgy image host. It’s Nebbiolo month for me in the UK. Here for six weeks and every night I polish off half a bottle and complete it the next. Fighting a bit of jet lag. Prices are horrendous for old Piedmont now. I’m utterly shocked. Actually prices in the UK rather crappy full stop. I had a 2015 Vietti Barbaresco Masseira over two evenings. It’s actually from Cotta Cru which I know well. It’s a clever, powerful and long wine. I’d go so far as to call it a Barolo maker’s Barbaresco. You see this a bit. Great wines though miss the feminine personality of the area. I may grab a few magnums for the cellar. With the price being the equivalent of a bottle in Oz. Best suited in magnum format and another decade plus.

[Dragzworthy]

This thread has indeed gone quiet! Thanks for the revival.

Had the pleasure of tasting Gaggan Anands cuisine at his popup in Singapore and whilst we started the 9 courses with a lovely Meursault, it was the Nervi Gattinara that blew me away. The balance between power and elegance it quite breathtaking, big fan of this maker and I was prompted to buy a case rapidly.

[JamieAdelaide]

Begrudgingly, I paid 50 quid for Pio Cesare’s Barbaresco 2017 at Majestic in the UK. I initially thought it Il Bricco at that price, alas, it wasn’t. It’s hard getting back into buying wines at this price after seeing Barbaresco at $30 for PdB-like standard and $50 for Riserva standard. This was in Hong Kong. It was bountiful and cheap and glorious drinking. Anyways… this is another Barolo producers Barbaresco. And this with all due respect to the late winemaker who was a passionate and very helpful to those who lived the region. He always provided detailed snippets about Pio Cesare wines and was amazed at our events showcasing his wines back to the 1940’s. The 2017 Barbaresco is solid all round. Dark perfumes with just a hint of dried citrus fruits and pine. Even and long, moreish texture right up until firm ripe tannins in a chewy finish. Needs time with firm extract. 90pts +

[Matt@5453]

2015 Giovanni Sordo Barolo Monvigliero

I would say 'rustic' compared to my usual drinking, but in a good way. Lovely aromatics on the nose. Medium bodied, lovely ripe fruits, old wood/cedar, hints of pine and dried herbs. Lovely length and a fair bit of tannic grip on the finish. I am not Barolo expert, but this was lovely. Wife loved it and suggested we drink more of this style.

[JamieAdelaide]

Glorious bottle of 2004 Giacosa Asili Riserva. A treat with a Hong King friend. Had a number of unexceptional wines but good to be back in the hot seat with freely available Nebbiolo. 2017 is a bit light and rusty thus far. Macaroni’s 2017 Commune La Morra and a 2017 Mauro Molino La Serra which had more flesh and immediate enjoyment.

I’ve ordered a mixed case for taking home. Pio Cesare Ornato 2016 and Mosconi 2015. A magnum of their regular Barolo from 2013. And some Gianni Gagliardo Lazzarito Vigna Preve Barolo Nebbiolo 2015. An odd choice but he did buy us dinner one night. A few Giacoasa Valmagiorre 2019’s for now.

[Ian S]

I've yet to try Marcarini's La Morra bottling (my experience of them is just with the Brunate and La Serra bottlings), but they're a producer I'd happily trust in warmer vintages and even enjoyed a 2003 from them!! I do see them as wines for the longer term.

Mauro Molino a favourite of ours, despite a 'lean-modernist' approach and in particular a little more noticeable oak than we'd prefer. I'm sure part of that is down to visiting them a couple of times and finding the younger generation taking the reins up to be welcoming/hospitable yet professional. That would count for nothing if we didn't also enjoy the wines, which do seem to avoid the excesses of a modernist approach and often drink well from the off.

[JamieAdelaide]

Marcarini's Barolo were bargains. Especially when aged. I bought a lot but brought too few to Australia as they were so cheap ( under $50 ) it was not worth the effort. That said I just checked and 31 bottles back to 97 vintage- must have been 20 years ago. Very pleased. I’m not so sure about this commune bottling. Maybe they tore out some Barbera vines or hazelnut trees and planted, where perhaps, Nebbiolo shouldn’t be.

[JamieAdelaide]

I’ve been aging Sandrone’s Valmaggiore Nebbiolo D’Albas. A far more intense expression of the beautiful amphitheatre vineyards of Valmaggiore that Bruno Giacosa. A 2006 was very good. Not as red fruited as it should have been and quite the mahogany colour in the glass suggesting a bit of advancement. All in all a great wine drinking like old Barolo ( for $20 Aussie on sale years ago)

[JamieAdelaide]

Couple of quick snippets from recent Piedmont wines. Two bottles of Pio Cesare 1983 Barolo were magnificent. Not a great vintage however the wines were rounded and deep, perfect with dinner. The power of the blend at work. Certainly their single vineyard Barolo can, even with time, show site and vintage vagaries. Not faults, just lacking the finesse of the blend.

Two bottles of Sori Paitin Barbaresco 1983. One corked and one hanging on with interest. This producer is excelling of late and 80’s Barbaresco often shows how far the region has come. A rising tide lifts all boats I guess, Gaja to thank for the mainstream attention and geniuses such as Giacosa who cast a spell on others .