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Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 1:09 am
by JamieBahrain
Interesting question because there will be a lot of opinions.
Firstly settle the wine as long as possible.
Then I suggest you contact the winery. They will offer some very Piedmontese advice probably along the lines of drinking old Burgundy. Some elaborate variation of popping and pouring ( I love their ritual of rinsing glassware with the wine before serving though personally don't view much more than local superstition)
I suggest pull the cork the day before.
If you are not happy with wine and it's relatively simple upon trying the next day, you can opt for a brutal aeration in a decanter.
If the wine is really in bad shape, going down the sink, STOP, pour in the decanter and try the next day. Barolo can be Biblical in a vinous resurrection.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 4:53 am
by Ian S
As Jamie says, lots of differing advice on this subject.
Of that, everyone seems to agree on standing the bottle upright, even for much younger wines. The sediment is fine (at least as fine as red burgundy) and thus can take a long time to settle and can be v. bitter. That said I'm doubtful that anything longer than (say) a week is necessary. Of course having gone to the effort of standing it up for so long, try to be gentle in pouring it, and if for a dinner / wine tasting, ideally pour all in one sweep, to avoid stirring up the sediment. No mollydooker shakes please
I also like the advice to uncork and taste & decide from there, which is something Francois Audouze has championed for ancient French wines. The difference between this approach and many Nebbiolo enthusiasts (esp. on US wine sites) is the extended aeration that Jamie mentions (Audouze may suggest extended time, but only with a small amount of airspace in the bottle, whereas a lot of the US opinion is extended period of aeration in the decanter). If this all sounds rather mystical, then I'd not dispute that. It's experiential rather than scientific and experiences do vary.
TBH most of the time when we're drinking at home, I can't be bothered to open the day or morning before - we'd not be sure that we'd actually be drinking that evening.
Finally, older nebbiolo when at its best can have the most wonderfully complex yet delicate aromas. Wines that are a joy to sniff in the glass, especially as the aromas can change in the glass.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 11:42 am
by JamieBahrain
We've experimented with Nebbiolo aeration and one event, targeting the practice specifically, was convincingly in favour of decanting Barolo inside of 20 years. After that time period, the various approaches come into an alchemist's like debate.
I will religiously draw the corks the day before my Nebbiolo events. Otherwise I receive criticism from my peers. Personally, I'm not convinced it does too much, though like the Piedmont serving practice of rinsing the glass with Barolo prior pouring, figured it can't do much harm. Happy to be told it does do something with convincing evidence, although as it stands for me its a novel ritual for these amazing wines. On that, Barolo and Barbaresco have few peers in their durability, with change and nuance with considerable aeration. I feel this provides a number of pathways that could convince the drinker their preparation techniques the most appropriate. Ian alludes to this with our US friends- who are often in the camp of aeration practices that would bring the winemakers to tears. For example, I Zoomed with Barbara Sandrone and we popped and poured her three Barolos young whereas many will claim six hours in the decanter required.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 11:45 am
by JamieBahrain
I'll finish my Ornato write up with a big glass of 2007 Ornato tomorrow night- too foggy to comment on this wine on the night! We had magnums of 1986 and 1993 Ornato, two bottles each of the 1997 Ornato and 2007 Ornato.
For the blinded traditionalists, Palladino also makes Ornato and the price is very cheap.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 11:08 pm
by Dragzworthy
Many thanks Ian and Jamie. Appreciate your advice. It seems as though the strategy here would be to keep it upright for one week plus, open it one evening ahead, see how it is upon opening, have a tiny taste, revisit and then recork (if fragile) and, if not, keep overnight. Should the wine feel dead or dull, decant ahead of the dinner.
That's sort of what I've interpreted? Lastly, should I be at all concerned by this high fill (it seems incredibly high for such an aged wine!)
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:50 am
by Gavin Trott
JamieBahrain wrote:I'll finish my Ornato write up with a big glass of 2007 Ornato tomorrow night- too foggy to comment on this wine on the night! We had magnums of 1986 and 1993 Ornato, two bottles each of the 1997 Ornato and 2007 Ornato.
For the blinded traditionalists, Palladino also makes Ornato and the price is very cheap.
and, Jamie
Have you tried, how good is the Palladino?
.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:28 pm
by Con J
Thanks Jamie, great write up and very jealous.
Cheers Con.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 2:21 pm
by JamieBahrain
Gavin Trott wrote:JamieBahrain wrote:I'll finish my Ornato write up with a big glass of 2007 Ornato tomorrow night- too foggy to comment on this wine on the night! We had magnums of 1986 and 1993 Ornato, two bottles each of the 1997 Ornato and 2007 Ornato.
For the blinded traditionalists, Palladino also makes Ornato and the price is very cheap.
and, Jamie
Have you tried, how good is the Palladino?
.
Hi Gavin
Palladino is another on the way up. They have the vineyards- San Fernando is unique, Parafada has an elegance and Ornato is a rawer and less crafted expression than Cesare.
Thaty said my experience is mostly with 2012 vintage. 16 release a no-brainer? They are modern-traditional if that makes sense- I feel they will appeal the traditionalists as the rawness comes through at times more so than winemaking craft. Whereas Pio Cesare's Ornato would upset staunch traditionalists as the wines show wood ( even recent tempered releases ) up until the Ornato terrroir shines through at 20 years plus.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 2:36 pm
by JamieBahrain
Dragzworthy wrote:Many thanks Ian and Jamie. Appreciate your advice. It seems as though the strategy here would be to keep it upright for one week plus, open it one evening ahead, see how it is upon opening, have a tiny taste, revisit and then recork (if fragile) and, if not, keep overnight. Should the wine feel dead or dull, decant ahead of the dinner.
That's sort of what I've interpreted? Lastly, should I be at all concerned by this high fill (it seems incredibly high for such an aged wine!)
Something like that.....
It's a good fill and no shock to anybody who cellars wine properly. That cork looks the goods from the grainy photo. Crusted at the bottom showing signifiant age and not worth the effort to fake so long ago.
Well cellared 74 Barolo often bowls over 71's in blind tastings.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:13 pm
by JamieBahrain
Tasting Vibes-
Olek Bondonio Barbaresco 2010 en magnum- Very pretty and easygoing wine. I must ask Olek where he got his fruit from. More Starderi like than Roncagliette- or perhaps just new vines? Wild red fruited fragrance, acidity provides a long carry of delicate fruit notes. Some will find it fruit-thin.
90pts
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Macarini La Serra Barolo 2008-A frined wanted to see the difference in Serralunga and La Morra soils after drinking Ornato Barolo with us. Macarini, traditional prodcuer and La Serra a feminie expression versus their Brunate and last but not least, classical vintage 2008!
Perfect. Mentholated red fruits, powerful yet pretty and feminine, and the compelxity keeps coming.
94pts
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La Ca Nova Barbaresco Montstefano 2015- Wild fruited and loaded with autunmal devlopment on day one. Day two it was a magnificent expression of Montestefano. Dark fruits, licorice and spice and with a unique complexity, all on a structural bed of typical Montestfano which is Barolo like witha limestone derived firmness.
95pts+
Paolo Conterno Ginestra Riserva Barolo 2003- Exceptional bottle for the vintage. First day it was long and with good tensions, tannins soft and delciate. Fruit was loaded with soy-bay leaf- older dark fruited characters. Very pleasing and easy to drink. Filled out on day two with even and round fruit in layers and choc-oak.
93pts
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Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 12:48 am
by JamieBahrain
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2007-
Over the last few nights I had a look at the 2007 Ornato. Can't remember the ones we tried on the evening of the vertical.
Conclusions from the tasting event were that Ornato had an inherent ability to age extremely long term and develop Burgundy levels of elegance and red fruited nuance. This from a period when their was sometimes a little too much oak. Perhaps this is the reason Ornato receives relatively modest accolades from the cognoscenti; there is a firm bias toward it being a heavily wooded wine. As the winemaking evolves and is adjusted and the southerly Ornato aspect offers some respite from warmer vintages versus say it's neighbours with south-west aspects ( Faletto ) , Ornato may be coming in below the radar of recent ! I’ll be getting 2016 Ornato if COVID induced economic woes settles.
Now 2007, the ripe and plump vintage and perhaps a watershed evolution for Pio Cesare's Ornato. 2008 and 2011 seem to show oak wound back and clever and restrained winemaking.
I'd sum the 2007 up as being a decadent Christmas Eve wine- better in the cool Northern Hemsphere. A pastille of modern and ripe aromatics including ripe plum/licorce, mulling spices, nicely offset by menthol-earth and dry flowers. Full bodied, vertically compact, loaded with rich and sweet nebbiolo fruit and oak spice, crushed rock sensation on the edges. Impeccably balanced, choc-oak and charcoal persist in a long carry. Half the bottle next day showed more oak and a core of decadent sweet fruit- a big shiraz drinker's Barolo. Yum!
93pts
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Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:33 pm
by Benchmark
Pio Cesare has featured heavily for us lately.
Quality from top to bottom in the range.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:48 pm
by brodie
JamieBahrain wrote:Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2007-
Over the last few nights I had a look at the 2007 Ornato.
I'd sum the 2007 up as being a
decadent Christmas Eve wine- better in the cool Northern Hemsphere. A pastille of modern and ripe aromatics including ripe plum/licorce, mulling spices, nicely offset by menthol-earth and dry flowers. Full bodied, vertically compact, loaded with rich and sweet nebbiolo fruit and
oak spice, crushed rock sensation on the edges. Impeccably balanced,
choc-oak and charcoal persist in a long carry. Half the bottle next day
showed more oak and a core of decadent sweet fruit- a big shiraz drinker's Barolo. Yum!
93pts
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Hi jamie, this tasting note is exactly why I got rid of every bottle Ornoto in the cellar! I am glad it works for you. But for me, the oak is / was obtrusive and unwelcome. Each to his own I guess.
BTW - the 2007 was the last vintage I bought it. Moved on to Brovia, Massolino, Burlotto!
cheers Brodie
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 2:43 pm
by JamieBahrain
Hi Brodie,
It was very calculated to place 2007 Ornato into the line-up because as I mentioned, it would seem a watershed moment for the Cru, based on tasting evidence of the 2008 & 2011, as well as comments from Alesso Massnaghetti who is an expert on the subject matter ( acknowledging stylistic evolution of Ornato ) and was firm in stating Ornato is coming in under the radar of late ( due to winemaking practice ).
2007 Ornato is a good wine in its style. It would seem to be it reached the pinnacle of an oak driven modernism accentuated with the riper 2007 vintage.
Now, to fall into the chasm of simple modernist and traditionalist is a grave mistake in my experience. Although if access to the wine's of Piedmont is limited, it becomes difficult not to. At thirty years plus of age these Ornatos showed about as much oak as great Burgundy. But who can wait around to see if that will happen with hotter vintages of the new millennium? And I doubt that 2007 will- it's not a bad wine BTW and "had" its place in the market.
Unbeknownst to many, Cappellano trialled barrique. Of course so many others have and then adjusted. If a producer has an amazing vineyard, you have to watch carefully in my experience, as over just a few vintages they can be making amazing wine. I watch a number of producers on based on this point- traditionalists too who need to either clean up or soften their winemaking ( including hard edged big botti influence ).
As Benchmark mentioned, Pio Cesare is a superb producer top to bottom. I've had their regular Barolo, their benchmark for over 100 years, back many, many decades. Their 2016 Barolo is through the roof by accounts- and that leaves Ornato which I belive will be slow on the uptake due bias and the very nature of the Cru ( needs ageing to draw its extraordinary power and elegance ).
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 7:49 pm
by Ozzie W
Jamie, based on your tasting note of the Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2007, I don't think I'd enjoy it. The more Nebbiolo I drink, the more I find that I'm averse to a strong oak regime. I find this mostly occurs with barrique, but not always. Conversely, I occasionally find wines that used botti which are too oaky. With all the changes going on with producers over time, it's often hard to keep up with who's using what and when.
From a practical perspective, the issue for me is limited cellaring space. So I avoid buying from producers that use barrique to greatly lessen my chances of ending up with a wine that I may not enjoy upon opening years down the track.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 10:31 pm
by Ian S
Hi Ozzie
If you're not already aware of it, the thread on Wine-berserkers set up by Pat Burton is very useful. It should not be thought of as definitive, and Pat was very good at stressing this when setting it up. It gives factual information, plus individual opinion, on where producers (and individual wines) fit on the spectrum
https
://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=106291
I recall a bottle of Pio Cesare Ornato back in the mid 2000s. It was a 1998. The wine was as tight as a vice. Not the wine's fault, the fault being entirely mine. Perhaps they adapted to avoid such self-inflicted disappointments, in adopting more modernist elements such as oak and maceration approach? I've not had since, not through that experience, but rather the price crept up to levels I'm generally not happy buying. I have had a very enjoyable 1993 Barolo from them since.
When the oak treatment brings obvious vanilla in, then I'm also out. As Jamie alludes to, the previous extremes are mostly gone, with the majority of producers somewhere inbetween the previously religious extremes. They've learnt from mistakes and from their peers and they've adapted.
So my advice would be to use Pat's thread to avoid the full on modernists and to also avoid modernist leaning where the oak treatment forms a major part of that categorisation.
Personally, I'm just as grumpy about the move to darker fruit, missing some of the fragrant elegance of older wines. I also prefer wines that can keep the alc % down closer to the required minimum, than those at 15% and above.
Regards
Ian
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 7:36 am
by brodie
JamieBahrain wrote:Hi Brodie,
Now, to fall into the chasm of simple modernist and traditionalist is a grave mistake in my experience. Although if access to the wine's of Piedmont is limited, it becomes difficult not to. But who can wait around to see if that will happen with hotter vintages of the new millennium?
H Jamie, yes I agree that viewing the producers thru the binary lens of modernist and traditionalist is a mistake. But as Ozzie points out, keeping track of producers who have undergone or are undergoing stylistic evolution is tricky. You are much closer to the producers than the rest of us and also I think you are more tolerant of a range of styles than some of us!
I am no longer in the market for Nebbiolo as I have a lifetime's supply ( at the the rate I consume them) in the cellar and also prefer them older. So this means I evaluate what I have versus what I enjoy drinking and adjust accordingly.
Brodie
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 10:25 am
by JamieBahrain
brodie wrote:You are much closer to the producers than the rest of us and also I think you are more tolerant of a range of styles than some of us
I think my tolerance is from wider exposure and easy access- if I want to look at a Barolo I just go buy a vertical quite cheap and with many wanting to chip in and share. You can than see the story of the wine and have suitable age on them to make a fair assessment. Ornato delivered some very nuanced and elegant expressions, with about us much oak influence as many Grand Cru Burgundies as I mentioned before. I knew the vertical would tell a story though it unfolded way different to what my blinkered-traditionalist friends expected.
Dug these up from a few years ago. The full spectrum of traditional through to modern ( Cavallotto using rotor-fermenters )
Interesting, as a collector and presenter of G Mascarello from older vintages, I find they are gushed about as the true representation of Barolo by many in that old and simplistic traditionalist camp before a tasting, yet in the end, they don't really get this wine. Older styled its very supple, lean and ultra-fine.
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1989- This worked a treat in the line up and I'm unsure if it was a deliberate ploy my Nigel. Based on the previous wines, you are firmly back in the traditionalist camp and then along comes this beauty. The oak and fruit are integrated and both show off their attributes in alluring fashion. The fruit is red lollied and the palate flavors are a kaleidoscope courtesy of the fruit/oak mesh. Divine modernism with enough fruit freshness to balance the potentially dry cedar wood notes on the finish.
95pts+
Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato 1989- I buy a case of this wine every year now. It is a classic. Mauro told me on a recent visit his 2006 vintage is memorable and it is a shame that my daughter's birth year was 07 ( no CA d'Morrissio that vintage ) and not 06. His wines can make a grown man weep.
Raw tar & marmite gives a burnt blackberry like dimension to the fruit which mixes beautifully with the mineralized raspberry like red fruits. Regal wine on the palate, it is princely and shows well now but gives a commanding presence to a long reign of maturity. Gently, dusty tannins roll on a long, long finish. I came back for another glass and cherished the flavors which resemble the nose.
97pts+
Cavallotto Riserva Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo 1989- This wine still needs 5 years. There's some autumnal and treacle like development prying away from dominating juicy red and black fruits. A further five years should help. There's a grippy back palate tannin rise that needs to soften- further fruit development and secondary/tertiary integration should be magical.
94pts+
Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate 1989- Polished, almost varnished red and black fruits, tar and soft rose notes. Sour cherry notes emerge. Very long and crafted wine, a toch austere but comes to life with food.
95pts
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 11:06 am
by Ozzie W
Ian S wrote:If you're not already aware of it, the thread on Wine-berserkers set up by Pat Burton is very useful. It should not be thought of as definitive, and Pat was very good at stressing this when setting it up. It gives factual information, plus individual opinion, on where producers (and individual wines) fit on the spectrum
https
://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=106291
...
So my advice would be to use Pat's thread to avoid the full on modernists and to also avoid modernist leaning where the oak treatment forms a major part of that categorisation.
Thanks for the advice. I discovered that thread a couple years ago and I find it useful, particularly when making buying decisions for producers that I've not tasted before.
As I learn more about my palate, the other thing I've come to realise is that my aversion to oak and Nebbiolo doesn't extend to all varietals. For example, I don't mind a little oak with my Pinot Noir, but the "combination" of oak and Nebbiolo just doesn't work for me.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 11:53 am
by JamieBahrain
Do you get unoaked Langhe nebbiolo in Australia? I know Olek was making one for awhile. Great weekday quaffing as little chance of a headache.
We've discussed the Beserker's thread recently. It's really useful though dynamics of the region beyond it on occasion.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 4:28 pm
by Dragzworthy
JamieBahrain wrote:Dragzworthy wrote:Many thanks Ian and Jamie. Appreciate your advice. It seems as though the strategy here would be to keep it upright for one week plus, open it one evening ahead, see how it is upon opening, have a tiny taste, revisit and then recork (if fragile) and, if not, keep overnight. Should the wine feel dead or dull, decant ahead of the dinner.
That's sort of what I've interpreted? Lastly, should I be at all concerned by this high fill (it seems incredibly high for such an aged wine!)
Something like that.....
It's a good fill and no shock to anybody who cellars wine properly. That cork looks the goods from the grainy photo. Crusted at the bottom showing signifiant age and not worth the effort to fake so long ago.
Well cellared 74 Barolo often bowls over 71's in blind tastings.
Thank you again sir. I also managed to come across someone else's process with this wine and everything I've read suggests no need be too concerned around the wines fragility.
https
://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167349
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2020 11:43 am
by JamieBahrain
Glad you've got the gist!
I'm not saying I favour what seems like the North American approach, however, never pour down the drain in dismay without brutalising the wine with air. Many, many times I've seen this work for the old fashioned Barolo.
Looking forward to a vibe on how it all went. Best of luck.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2020 4:22 am
by Ian S
JamieBahrain wrote:Glad you've got the gist!
I'm not saying I favour what seems like the North American approach, however, never pour down the drain in dismay without brutalising the wine with air. Many, many times I've seen this work for the old fashioned Barolo.
Looking forward to a vibe on how it all went. Best of luck.
*like*
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2020 6:56 pm
by Dragzworthy
Many thanks for all your insight and advice but unfortunately it seems as though the bottle gods have disappointed me in this instance. I opened the wine and was met with a lot of must and cherry like notes which suggested the wine had maderized. Prepared for a wine which may be lifeless, I slow ox-ed for 8 hours (whilst I slept) but when I awoke, it was no different than the evening prior. This prompted me to decant the wine but there was no development after 8 hours. I tasted it and I got bitter almond, sherry and some tartness. Down the drain sadly.
Attaching some photos of the bottle, the cork and the sludge at the bottom of the bottle (left whilst decanting).
In lieu of my failure, I've purchased a case of Manzone 2001 Le Gramolere !
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:13 am
by Ian S
Really sad to hear that. Yes it's not uncommon with very old nebbiolo wines, but with the signs so good with level, I would have been hopeful - even more so seeing the cork in good condition.
Definitely no TCA? (the mustiness comment, plus later reference to bitterness made me wonder)
I will at least applaud your good work with the butler's thief
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:42 am
by JamieBahrain
I’m with Ian - probably taint so fire off a request for refund
Terrible shame. I’m fortunate to have very good exposure to very old Barolo and I reckon they are 50-50 due poor storage . Multi-generational wines when well stored. With taint getting away with its insidious nature with the catch-cry of only great botties not great wines !
Old Barolo is still pretty cheap for these reasons.
Except for old Conterno and Mascarello seeing crazy prices, which ignore the above risks and have the added worry of easy forgery .
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:04 am
by Dragzworthy
Aye, it may indeed have been TCA. I'm not very sensitive to it but there was definitely a bitter note on it and that was my key determinant of knowing it wasnt going to get better.
I'll not give up and hopefully I get a few good bottles out of the case of 12 Manzone 2001 I've ordered
I did, however, had the pleasure of having some nice other bottles brought by other participants of the dinner...though none had significant bottle age. My Barolo failure meant that I was left bringing a Wynn's Black 1996...perhaps the third best wine of the night alongside the Conterno Fantino Sori ginestera 2007 and Chateau d'Issan 2005
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:14 am
by JamieBahrain
Haven’t tried the 2001 Gramolere so await your notes ! BTW how was Conterno Fantino ? Firmly modern and acceptable to the revellers?
I think G Manzone are underrated producers with a step-up in quality recently .
I’m still in contact with the family if anyone wants a neat tasting experience ( as below )
Alas, Olek Bondonio what’s app me yesterday they are going into lockdown again .
JamieBahrain wrote:I’ve arrived for a quick stay at Monforte. Hopefully I’ll get a few wineries in but I’m a slow paced tourist preferring to experience the atmosphere of a medieval wine town such as Monforte d’Alba.
http
://www.manzonegiovanni.com/
Manzone is a good consideration to look at the area . They are small, very affordable and present over a number of famous Cru’s.
After a quick shower at my apartment in Monforte it’s off to the winery for a tasting with Mauro.
Manzone is another producer that puts to rest the simplicity of the modernist / traditionalist debate . I can’t quite nail their oak regime but they are self-declared traditionalists, minimal interventionists and traditional winemaking , with a modern winery.
Barolo Castelletto 2015- Beautifully ripened fruit with cliche tar and roses and Turkish Delight chocolate notes arising from sweet strawberry/raspberry fruit and spice. This ripeness carries on the palate edges with the wine being long and gently muscular . Lots of joy inside of a decade with 2015 though no doubting cellaring potential .
93pts
Barolo Bricat 2015 is from the top of the Gramolere vineyard, a Cru within as Cru picked only in exceptional vintages .
This is bigger than the 2015 Castelletto despite Gramolere elevation and soil composition usually delivering a more elegant expression.
Concentrated dark tar masking deeper buried red fruit notes, less showy and more retrained than the Castelletto 2015. Latent potential in a powerful yet elegant and long structure- tannins Monforte ripe and firm .
94pt+
Gramolere Barolo 2014- locals are far less critical of the vintage than the rest of the market .
Distinctly perfumed here, cool and classic high notes , lovely tar nuances more open toward an old vintage car engine- rose petals too. Classical austerity , a little lean, time and food will flesh out the wine with raspberry vanilla cream fruit notes .
91pts
Gramolere Riserva 2011- Ripe and perfumed berry mix, deeper Cadbury’s Turkish Delight notes with sweetened walnuts . A very giving wine, rounded and fully loaded with generous Nebbiolo fruit concentrated rather than palate spread - a nice energy keeps interest and freshness .
93pts
Gramolere Riserva 2008- This classic vintage pairs perfectly with Manzone’s house style . Has the ripened fruit notes of Gramolere above though with cool and mineral overtones. Palate is similar - elegant and long - with red fruit focus and delineation beam like. Old fashioned Monforte tannins flood the back palate .
96pts
Gramolere Riserva 1993- vintage engine oil and spiced , well tamed red and black fruit notes . Wove is carried by a calcareous austerity , flavour profile similar to aromatics clings at the edges , light grip in persisting tertiary notes .
95pts
Castelletto Barolo 2007- Excellent plump-ripe amalgamation of red and black fruits with tertiary tobacco like development suggesting it’s in window . Delivered on a long structural package , savoury with mineral undertones, lacks fruit stuffing though food will draw less critics .
92pts
Gramolere Barolo 2010- this is in a lock down but there is still enough to see of its high quality . Black pepper and dry spices , red fruit and tar in a classic mix, compelling structure and balance. Obviously unyielding though with glamorous potential !
94pts +
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Hard to tell much here from 2018 though a step up from 2017 . Love the hard Piedmont cheeses !
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Overall, a visit to Manzone, the highest rating I could recommend for a genuine lover of Barolo .
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Looking toward Castiglione, from the cellar door , overlooking Perno Cru . They will eventually make an individual Barolo from here. I have Perno in my cellar from other producers like G Macarello and I feel Mazone will fit nicely with their style .
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 4:09 am
by Ian S
Yes we enjoyed our visit to (G.) Manzone as well. Still got some 2006 Bricat Barolo in the cellar from that trip.
That said, disappointing visits are remarkably rare in the region, indeed also in most of Italy. The only poor ones I can think of were
- Marchesi di Barolo, which despite booking in advance, was a painfully touristic experience, even though the employee assigned to us did at least try here best.
- A drop-in at Produttori del Barbaresco. For all the excellence of their wines, the drop in cellar door experience is not to be recommended, being very soulless, with little to taste (and drop-ins are a rare concept outside of the famous bits of Tuscany).
Plenty of other visits were wonderfully memorable, with the hospitality almost universally excellent.
Re: The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 2:00 pm
by JamieBahrain
The big brands including Produttori do great tastings and tours for bigger groups or the trade. I'll add Clerico to the don't bother unless in the trade.
Sure, pop your head into PdB and then move 20m up to Rocche dei Barberi. Very unique, unknown and only cellar door sales. Can taste back decades via Coravin. More known now so expecting the experience to wither somewhat in time as Barbaresco becomes a tourist town.