The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[JamieBahrain]

Hi Michael

It will develop beautifully and I'd take your option three!

2 years at risk of being shut down and 5 years I think it will be disappointing as you'll quickly realise option 3 would have been best.

[JamieBahrain]

Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini- This family vineyard was split in two in 2006. We have this label and the other, my preferred, Renato Corino. I back sourced older wines from the 90's from Corino and have been impressed. Great La Morra vineyards like Giachini, Arborina, Rocche Annunziata & Vecchie Vigne bottlings.

Pine, bark, cherry oak, spiced dark violet fruits & French Oak traces. Layered, unyielding sweet dark fruits, crafted long structure where oak seems to tussle with forceful tannins of possibly early picked fruit.

Time will help- probably not as much as it did with the old Corinos.

89pts+




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[Michael McNally]

Hi Michael

It will develop beautifully and I'd take your option three!

2 years at risk of being shut down and 5 years I think it will be disappointing as you'll quickly realise option 3 would have been best.

Thanks Jamie. I thought (and feared) you'd say that!

Cheers

Michael

[Con J]

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Normale 2016- High expectations will be met; probably more so those who put a box at the bottom of their cellar. It's a wine that will also convert many to nebbiolo as it sits easy on release whilst offering an obvious to all, future eminence.

Aromatics are rich and deep. There's an illuminating and freshening brightness to dark rose scents atop of black cherry. Lifted pepper, violets and cedar notes in complexity. Supple yet dense on the palate; it delivers the aromatics in a classic Barbaresco flavour profile that we are now seeing in the best vintages of this millennium. Cool, clear acidity carries tobacco/ sour cherry notes long after a gratifying sip.

94pts+

Thanks for the note Jaime. Went to a tasting at a retail store in Melbourne at the end of November and they had the 2014, 2015 and 2016 open and I bought one bottle and opted for this of the three vintages.

First Barbarescos ever so have no idea how they will develop, but this seemed the most balanced and interesting wine. When would you recommend opening it 2, 5 or 10 years?

Cheers

Michael

Thanks Guys, ordered a 6 pack of this today for just under $70 per bottle.

Cheers Con.

[JamieBahrain]

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This week's offerings.

New producer for me, Silvano Bolmida. A little research into this Monforte producer and happy to discover a passionate and progressive winemaker. Beautiful Barolo- Bussia is so complex and varied- red florals and long length with high tension first days and following up by week's end we have classic masculine Monforte expressions. Dark fruit, goudron and extract, very dense and complete with tannins now firming in the finish. 93pts+ for both. After posting a note on another forum Silvano contacted me on facebook so I'm delighted I can visit and have a long chat on Bussia next trip.

I actually had a couple of Pelisseros. A 2011 Tuiln Barbesco which struggled with the hot vintage and barrique. Not impressed! 2013 Nubiola fared better with aeration- ripe, full and decadent in a rounded, dark fruited personality. 90pts

[JamieBahrain]

2003 Paolo Conterno Barolo Riserva Ginestra- Exotic nougat, sweet and sour red cherry, sawn wood. Disjointed palate; very tough going.

Nice thing about Barolo I've learnt courtesy of the internet and many, many nebbiolo tragics is despite initial critic comments and even a wine's early performance, there are brutal non-coventional processes you can apply that would not work with many other wines.

So, poured into a half-decanter and came back a few days later and with a meal. Black tea and crushed bramble, wood is noted but supporting. Fills out gratifyingly with food over a number of pairings- carry is of moderate compexity.

91pts

[JamieBahrain]

Hmmmm... many posts are disappearing from the forum...lost my post on Clerico. Re-post when all looks stable.

[Ian S]

Sorry to hear of that frustration Jamie - I've been there and it's not good. Best to do as you did, step away from the pooter. If you feel motivated to repost tomorrow (no doubt with text copy to save it as you go!) then we'll be all the more keen to read it.

[JamieBahrain]

1997 & 2001 Domenco Clerico Barolo Pajana- Trying again though very quickly. These are the initial wines I've tried in ascertaining how overt oak is with this producer though more so, does the oak heal in time? Barrique is a mix of new and old, with Clerico stating its low toast and not the most overriding factor with his wines.

Pajana is a vineyard on the lower reaches of Ginestra. This, with heavy fossil content in the soils, making for rounder and more elegant expressions from this Monforte Cru.

The 97 was a reflection of the magnificent vintage. Decanted for three hours or so, re-poured into the bottle and decanted again late in the evening. Utterly outstanding fruit quality that slowly unpeeled and perhaps made its zenith? Why the need for barrique anyways but we need to consider the improvements at the time and the possibility of a remarkable generational transition - they have the vineyards and with adjustments and the new climate Clerico one to watch!

Hard to capture all the nuances as they change over time- ripe dark fruits to mint, bark and dark chocolate. Always with aromatic botantics in a freshening Alpine breeze. Exotic pipe tobacco accents throughout-even in the sweet ripe tannins. All in a long and clean spread of near perfecly weighted fruit.

94pts


2001 showed a little more development which could be provenance. Dehydrated dark fruits, freshening black fruits in tar and a herbal/spicy lift. Very long wine, piercing clarity and like th 97, has lovely sweet pipe smoke accents- furry tannins washed away with menthol acidity.

91pts with better bottles probably out there!

Good start for Clerico. Wooden monster I think not- though more in an international and unnecessary style for some which needs to be considered int he context of the times.

Flagship Percristina 97,98,99 up next. A tribute to Domencio Clerico's daughter who passed. Sentimentally I'm hoping to see a passionate winemaker's best work in these bottles. Fingers crossed.


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[JamieBahrain]

63rd Chapter Hong Kong Knights of Alba.


Where: ÉPURE, Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui
When: 14 January (Tuesday), Aperitivo from 18h30, Dinner from 19:00
Dress Code: Lounge Suit with Medallion


Please join us on 14th January at Michelin star restaurant ÉPURE for our 63rd (Knights-Only) Chapter, dedicated to the birthplace of Barolo: The Cannubi Hill.

On our request, Chef Nicholas Boutin is creating a special menu (see below) designed for pairing with the best Barolo: Cannubi.

Cannubi is the most historical vineyards of all Barolo, in fact, the word “Cannubi” first appeared on a label in the year 1752, long before the word “Barolo”! It is arguably the greatest Cru in Barolo, a vineyard which is “kissed by God”, according to James Suckling in his 2013 documentation film (link here).

Historically, “Cannubi” refers to a 15 ha vineyard in the heart of the Cannubi hill. Together on the hill are 4 adjacent vineyards: Cannubi Muscatel, Cannubi Valletta, Cannubi San Lorenzo, and Cannubi Boschis. All Barolo producers would agree that these are exceptional vineyards, the terroir unique in that there is a part of sand composition within soil, giving elegance to the intense wine and balance to the austere tannins.

In the first part of the dinner, we will tasting side by side the following wines and comparing the subtle differences within the Cannubi hill. We will also have an interesting and in-depth discussion of the controversy surrounding the boundary, and legal definition of“Cannubi”.

2005 Ceretto Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo (in magnum)
2010 Damilano Barolo Cannubi
2010 Damilano Barolo Reserva Cannubi 1752
2007 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis (in magnum)

Cannubi San Lorenzo is the smallest and highest part of the entire Cannubi hill, and Ceretto has a tiny 0.25 ha plot of 90 years old vines at the summit of San Lorenzo. Each year, their Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo is bottled only in magnums in tiny qualities (500 magnums).

While Damilano’s regular Barolo Cannubi is a blend of “historical Cannubi” and Cannubi Valletta, their Barolo Reserva Cannubi 1752 is sourced solely from “historical Cannubi”, the name 1752 a reference to the year when “Cannubi” first appeared on a label.

On the tail end of the Cannubi hill is Cannubi Boschis, it is at a slightly lower altitude than the rest of the vineyards, the soil is more compact, with more clay, but the temperature is slightly cooler, thanks to the breeze coming from the Tanaro river. Over the years, this vineyard has become synonymous with Luciano Sandrone, who simply named his flagship Barolo “Cannubi Boschis” (now changed to “Aleste”).

In the second part of the dinner, we will be slowly enjoying a legendary wine with Cannubi in its heart… 2 Magnums of 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo. Maria Teresa Mascarello follows the traditionalist approach of blending, and the only Barolo from the estate is a blend of 50% “historical Cannubi”and Cannubi San Lorenzo, the rest from Rue and Rocche dell’Annunziata.

[JamieBahrain]

Ceretto Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo 2005 ( magnum )- Very exciting to try this very rare wine made from Cannubi-San Lorenzo. 90 year old vines and only 500 magnums made- no 750ml!

Alluring aromatics with a perfume of violets, wild strawberry, perfectly ripened nebbiolo red and black and a little choc-oak ( a year in barrique ). Perfect spread and palate sweep, with good complexity and persistence- critically, the vintage austerity shows up a little oak carcass.

Goes for anywhere between $500 and $1000+ a magnum and worth a pop at the former.

94pts


2010 Damilano Barolo Cannubi- Liqoured choc-plum, offsetting dry Alpine grass, subtle red and black fruits in goudron and mint. Medium weighted, soft and complex delivering the aromatics, grippy tannins and saline notes in the acidity.

92pts

Damilano Barolo Reserva Cannubi 1752 2010- Must hunt this historical bottling with overdone marketing- I'm guessing they've missed the mark with the consumer, nevertheless, a high quality wine.

Warm and inviting red and black fruits- ocean deep suggesting a long way off its best drinking. Even across the palate, far denser than the Cannubi classico above, needing a few more years to reveal the latent mystery of the wine, haunting I guess, with a clean finish, spices and soft tannin.

96pts+


2007 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis ( magnum )- This wasn't decanted as the host felt tannins too resolved. And to be honest, having eight bottles in the cellar myself, was expecting a something different.

Typical Sandrone nose of blue flowers, wild Maluku spice and complex variations of strawberries- in cream, poached, liquored etc. The nose was raw fruited compared to generally more classic Cannubi expressions on the night. Licorice and tar, very long, fine and delineated Barolo- seemingly out of place on the night but still good.

94pts

Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Cannubi 2014- From Muscatel and if you know the controversy of Cannubi look no further!

Dusty, stewy red and black fruits,soft and lacking the intensity of the above and certainly the following Mascarello! It's gentle Cannubi Barolo, feminine or softly masculine at best, squealing citrus acidity typical of 2014.

Very good and affordable introduction to Cannubi ( even if controversially Muscatel )

91pts+


Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2006 (magnum) - When I first started visiting the region, I'd always ring MT and pop in and get a stash of Mascarello at about $50 AUD a bottle. We drank a lot of it. It was on wine lists with maturity for $100 and some vintages were moreishly approachable and near quaffers. Long winded and to cut a story short, my pint being I forgot how good this wine is!

Stand and Deliver! 2006- the power and grace. Classic Bartolo violets, dry spice, restrained red and black fruits in tar-jam. Velvet glove stuff on the plate, too young, much potential though still plenty of enjoyment now- grippy and awkward fruit tannin of the 2006 vintage. Generous helpings from both magnums- ah the good old days of free-flowing Bartolo!

97pts+



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[Ian S]

Many thanks for re-typing these notes Jamie

Some vintage comments
2006 is definitely my sort of vintage (grippy and awkward fruit tannin seems fair comment). They do require an element of trust unless winemaking intentionally softens them. I'm happy to place that trust, in the hope that what they reveal in 2-5 decades was worth it. T'is a gamble though.
1997 is the reverse. For my tastes, far from a great vintage, yet certain American critics loved it. I've had some write-offs, indeed shockingly more than I've had enjoyable bottles. Marcarini a notable exception and I think they cope with warm/hot vintages better than most.

Now to the big question. How do you feel the more assertively oaked wines are progressing? Arguably it's about where they are on the journey, rather than being able to say 'the oak has been soaked up and they're indistinguishable from the trad wines'. Personally it;s only the extreme cases that I fret about the oak, but my main concern remains about the longevity and ability to reveal aged nuance.

Finally, Marchesi di Barolo - a producer still close to our hearts (for older bottles), but one that I don't currently have any love for their current efforts. Indeed I'd judge your TN and score of 91 as a very good result for them. I have low expectations for them, and as tourism continues to bring punters to Barolo, I see their future as servicing them, rather than an ambition to make regal wines again.

[JamieBahrain]

Hi Ian,

Fully concur with your thoughts on 2006 and I wonder if the secondary market does as well? It's a very difficult vintage to backfill- if you look either side 2007 and 2008 are/ have been plentiful. 2008 I must add, is fantastic, very happy its an underrated vintage with so much varying comment from critics.

I was pretty impressed with 1997 Pajana. That said, Percristina 97 has a fair bit of amatuer commentary in the negative. I've not had the bad run with 97 you may have had- but for me, we aren't talking of vast amounts of bottles here.

On the question of oak, it is the most simplified argument in Piedmont. Often black and white, cut and dry; modernists use too much oak and traditionalists have it right! There's flawed Slavonian botti out there, or small producers using new botti with a dominating stamp or a long list of other issues- Aldo Conterno's "impossible" French vanilla notes in mature Barolo for example .

I'm not sure what you mean by this - 'the oak has been soaked up and they're indistinguishable from the trad wines'. Negative commentary is that the oak is dominant throughout the wine's drinking window and un-palatable. I'm saying it often isn't discernible at "proper" maturity. So I'm assuming you are taking the discussion to a more advanced level- and frankly this is where it needs to be! The issue of oak is complex. Is the fact a La Morra Barolo, with a master craftsman like Voerzio or Altare, drinking and holding, well beyond the traditional limitations of the Tortonian soils and without the stamp of oak, a positive development? Versus a Barolo producer, that at maturity, is plagued by what I'd term "oak carcass" on the palate edges?

I'd conclude I'm a lot more open minded on oak, international styles, the cleaning up of winemaking in the region etc. Pretty similar to yourself.

But this was more about Clerico- do his wines present overt oak at maturity? Especially when looking at this most passionate man's prized Mosconi bottlings- Percristina. His masterwork in honour of his late daughter. And here the debate of oak, ebbs and flows again- strategically, by the winemaker, the tannic fruit of Mosconi is "to be" softened by the barrique.

And after all that, I've only opened two Clericos- the Pajanas above. Conclusion is with the 97 its a beautiful international wine of fruit quality that may not require the barrique. But the barrique is part of the region's journey, adjustments inevitable, and the role of cleaning up the wines of Monforte difficult to dispute.

[JamieBahrain]

Finally, Marchesi di Barolo - a producer still close to our hearts (for older bottles), but one that I don't currently have any love for their current efforts. Indeed I'd judge your TN and score of 91 as a very good result for them. I have low expectations for them, and as tourism continues to bring punters to Barolo, I see their future as servicing them, rather than an ambition to make regal wines again.

Yes agreed.

However, this bottling their Cannubi and not La Tradizione. It was deserving of a good mark though clearly a number of rungs down from the company on the night. Aromatically it was typically Cannubi Muscatel in my expereince- they'd probably do better having run with this and being makers of a solid solid expression of the terroir- instead of riding the coattails of Cannubi proper.

[Ian S]

I'm not sure what you mean by this - 'the oak has been soaked up and they're indistinguishable from the trad wines'. Negative commentary is that the oak is dominant throughout the wine's drinking window and un-palatable. I'm saying it often isn't discernible at "proper" maturity. So I'm assuming you are taking the discussion to a more advanced level- and frankly this is where it needs to be! The issue of oak is complex. Is the fact a La Morra Barolo, with a master craftsman like Voerzio or Altare, drinking and holding, well beyond the traditional limitations of the Tortonian soils and without the stamp of oak, a positive development? Versus a Barolo producer, that at maturity, is plagued by what I'd term "oak carcass" on the palate edges?

I'd conclude I'm a lot more open minded on oak, international styles, the cleaning up of winemaking in the region etc. Pretty similar to yourself.

But this was more about Clerico- do his wines present overt oak at maturity? Especially when looking at this most passionate man's prized Mosconi bottlings- Percristina. His masterwork in honour of his late daughter. And here the debate of oak, ebbs and flows again- strategically, by the winemaker, the tannic fruit of Mosconi is "to be" softened by the barrique.

And after all that, I've only opened two Clericos- the Pajanas above. Conclusion is with the 97 its a beautiful international wine of fruit quality that may not require the barrique. But the barrique is part of the region's journey, adjustments inevitable, and the role of cleaning up the wines of Monforte difficult to dispute.

Hi Jamie
IIRC the modernist movement started in the 1980s, so the early adopters should have wines hitting the 40 year mark, but to be fair to them, I think we'd want to see the wines that they were producing after 4-5 years of initial experimentation. Thus we'd probably want to be looking at vintages like 1990, 1996, 1997 and see where they are. The better wines of those vintages ought to still be developing, but well on the way to saying what remaining influence the oak should have. In addition, we'll start to see whether individual producers have maintained longevity, or whether they've been made for early appreciation at the expense of longevity.

My personal preference for oak, is the more neutral end (e.g. large Slovonian botti), but I've enjoyed wines that use smaller Slavonian oak and indeed French barriques. As you say, it's not that simple, with toast and cleaning regimes having a not insignificant effect. I'll take subtlety, even with barriqued wines, though if vanilla and cigar box are the leading aromas, then I'm angry that they're obscuring what I enjoy.

Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

I've had a number of inaugural vintages from Barolo Boy producers. Never oak dominating which in part is age and other factors such as provenance ( some not in good shape ).

I have Clerico Percristina 97,98,99 to drink with in a home environment over the next few days, which should give clear indication of Clerico ( though perhaps not the whole BB movement ). In my wine fridge too, is Pio Cesare Ornato in magnums back to 1986 ( 1990 included ) just awaiting a tasting opportunity. This will be interesting as Serralunga slightly different proposition to Monforte and more dramatic than La Morra.

Yes, my preference for oak is big botti. However, it is not without fault and the stamp of oak can be negative. I know a number of Barbaresco producers furious at one producer of these large barrels where "green oak traits" imparted on their traditionally styled wines. However, overall, I'm still hugely optimistic of the evolution of wines in the region and am reluctant to write-off producers based on definitive barrique arguments.

Cigar Box hmmmm. Not to be confused with varietal notes of tobacco? I think this happens a little often on amateur wine boards. Be an interesting discussion with winemakers in the region.

[JamieBahrain]

Caught up with a friend and was delighted he pulled these out to try. I've become a fan of Manzone. And it so happens, I recommend these a few years ago to a number of folks whilst on sale, so a little serendipity here as they are pricer now.

Just quick TV's. I didn't expect such a contrast between the ripe 2007 vintage and hot 2009 - note the colour of the 2009. Granted different terroir- Castelletto sandier and more elegant and Gramolere muscular and more typically Monforte.

Castelletto 07- Balsamic, cherries, raspberries, bright overtones, beautifully elegant and near delicate. Pretty consistent with a winery visit a few months ago.

92pts

Gramolere 09- Ripe, prunes and dehydrated dark fruits in heavy tar. Full and muscular, purposefully delivers the aromatics with clay, tobacco and minerals in firmish tannins.

90pts






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[sjw_11]

Cigar Box hmmmm. Not to be confused with varietal notes of tobacco? I think this happens a little often on amateur wine boards.

Gosh those dumb amateurs, confusing tobacco and cigar box. How trying.

[JamieBahrain]

Oh no bruised egos?

But really, when judging somebody's professional work, reminding yourself of personal limitations a welcomed courtesy.

In judging Clerico, his first two wines loaded with tobacco or cigar box? Tertiary barrel or tertiary fruit? This amateur went for fruit.

[JamieBahrain]

Fratelli Brovia Barolo 2015- The snap not quite capturing the translucent beauty of this wine, which is mostly free run juice, producing a simple yet ethereal Burgundy lover's Barolo!

Summer rose and wild cherry, pretty red fruits in goudron throughout and a gentle, sweet mentholation. Bright, clear acidity - just enough fruit, just enough tannin, to swing from silky, to slippery and sometimes pleasantly firm. Latent power. If not approached cerebrally noting the stamp of Brovia, would be seen only a rung or two above a Langhe nebbiolo.

Six bottles and my household Barolo quaffer- alas only four left!

92pts


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[Ian S]

Oh no bruised egos?

But really, when judging somebody's professional work, reminding yourself of personal limitations a welcomed courtesy.

In judging Clerico, his first two wines loaded with tobacco or cigar box? Tertiary barrel or tertiary fruit? This amateur went for fruit.

Why does this have to be so argumentative? So often.

[JamieBahrain]

No barrique No Berlusconi. Barriques are very emotive in Barolo.

Probably no other wine region in the world sees pigeon-holing in regard to oak treatment more so than Barolo.

I think if more winemakers in the region interviewed on the topic it would be better understood.

[JamieBahrain]

Domenico Clerico
2008 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin
2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
2007 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana
2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana

Ozzie


Just had the 2 x Pajanas and 3 x Percritinas. Will write up notes soon- still have half a 99 for tonight !

To be honest, I was hoping for a different result, as Clericos in blind lineups, gave me a different perspective. I can see why Brodie sold off his and unless dramatic change in the 2000's they probably won't be to your stated tastes either. But sitting with whole bottles is far different to blind Barolo verticals.

Percristina is a truly international style where barrique is used to soften hard natural fruit tannins and the result is a very smooth, incredibly deep and perhaps not terribly representitive of the terroir.I was expecting something different to be honest. But going back to the period, a wine style that had great appeal at a time when Barolo wasn't doing so well due its harsh and often dirty style.

Pajana and Ciabot Mentin are probably more terroir driven, more varietally nuanced, but still too oak driven for your tastes.

It's a real shame- but you've probably already shipped them to auction.

[Ozzie W]

Nothing's gone to auction yet and probably won't for several more months. Still researching (and tasting where I can) to suss it all out. However, Domenico Clerico, Aldo Conterno, Conterno Fantino & Paolo Scavino currently on the "send to auction" list unless I find a reason not to.

[JamieBahrain]

Price list for info. Snapped at cellar door recently

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[JamieBahrain]

Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina:

Last year I stayed in Monforte, biblical home of the Barolo Boys, in the hope of better understanding the village and the direction of many of their wines. The end of the road in this exploration will always bring you to Domenico Clerico and his flagship wine Percristina. Percristina is from the Mosconi vineyard in Monforte d’Alba. White soils, ash-like when in your hands. Known for producing wines of great longevity, vigorous- though with a brick wall of tannin.

Incidentally, Felcin restaurant is a very important foodies landmark in Monforte, legendary, and Clerico waited tables here in his youth back when Italians in the know would come here, to dine and drink the undiscovered internationally, wines of Giacomo Conterno!

Clerico passed last year. By all accounts a passionate man. He lost his only child at a very young age in a tragic accident- Cristina- and so named his flagship Barolo. Percristina is only made in the best vintages and goes through a very serious barrique regime - 3 years in French barrique another two in larger Slavonian botti and released a decade after vintage! Clerico is pushed to the frontline of the tiring modernist-traditionalist cult arguments, however, I hoped to look a little beyond this a come to respectful conclusions as an amateur wine enthusiast only.




Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina Barolo 1997- A monumental and lauded vintage. Slow-ox, decanted for a few hours and then re-poured into the bottle. Initially charcoal and dark fruits. Air draws out the deeper class of the wine and very complex and alluring aromatics of baking spices, wild raspberry/cherry, ginger bread and more berry/ licorice plant. Powerful and rich palate drive, a melt of dark fruit in spice, distinct clay like mineral inflections and lovely rose tea. Long and persistent. Tannins are clay-fine and well in check. Important to note barrique is a tool only, according to Clerico, and a function here is to soften and present the structure of Mosconi. Does it do this? At 20 + years the tannin is still firm though hardly offensive to Barolo lovers.

95pts



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Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina Barolo 1998- Not as well regarded vintage though in my experience it can outperform- I did fortunately backfill magnums of traditionalists ( the two Mascarello ) a decade or so ago as pricing reflected vintage stereotyping.

More developed and aromatically "frail". So popped and poured. Pine forest and underbrush, loaded with dry herbs like thyme. Mellow sweet raspberry fruit, cherry notes and tobacco. Very stylish wine, maintains the richness of style, rounded in the vintage of 98- red fruit shades throughout a finish of classy, moderated tannin.

92pts


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Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina Barolo 1999- The cork had some ullage and the wine showed a lot of development. So unlike what's possible with other grape varieties, I took a brutal aeration play to draw the deep personality of the wine from the externals of probable cellaring abuse! I peeked at cellartracker to see if I could find a consistency- there was one punter who drank a number of bottles and claimed a brett issue. Now this wine was open for many days and at 20 years old did not fall over or fade as you would expect from brett infestation. Mosconi does have a clay/ ferrous mineral bite- perhaps this was the brett?

Hay, carob, cocoa, dried fruits and dried mint. Aeration draws licorice-truffle. Very long wine with the palate mimicking the aromatics- tannins are fruit sweet and then a slight dry rise completes.

I left half a bottle, after vigorous slow-ox and aeration, for a few days later. Re-pouring into the decanter it was jaffa like in bright orange hues and dark chocolate coloured from the oak. No signs of oxidation and the wine was perfectly even and delicious drinking! So much fun is Barolo!

92pts(?) with better bottles about.

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Clerico set out to make a blockbuster Barolo of immense power and depth- to be regarded as one of the greats of the region. Times and fashion quickly changed, as did he, with adjustments to winemaking and barrique usage ( minimal toasting ). For my personal tastes what we have here is a very modern international style of Barolo. Whereas some folks will see it like an 80's mullet hairstyle, ugly and out of place today, others will just love it as a well crafted and opulent style of wine- perhaps a Bordeaux lovers Barolo of sorts.

I think I'll source and backfill a few well priced vintages.

[JamieBahrain]

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Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 1999- Intriguing producer. Fastidious in the vineyard, firmly believing less is more - his magnificent Barbera d'Alba Pozzoannunziata makes 1500 magnums from 3000 vines. I've visited the winery and before you even get to sip you've spent 2 hours amongst the vines! Skilled winemaking with claims you can not tell their wines are matured in barrique after 6-8 years ( I'd dispute this but this is their gist )

The 1999 Cerequio had a great cork; very hard to get out. However, the wine showed higher levels of advancement and that jaffa-red brown coloring of oak matured nebbiolo with age.

Joyfully aromatic, dry mint in exotic brown spices with whiffs of freshening pine. Darker fruit in evolution with tar, cocoa and chinato. With air raisin notes disappear and the wine delivers in a powerful and fresh manner. Fresh, clean sweeping acidity with a vigorous fruit feel and long finish. Very well balanced.

Still suspoect better bottles as lacking Voerzio's "red spectrum" ....

92pts (?)





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Quaffers before going away a few weeks ago. Borgogno's No Name ( protest bottles ) show the silky, slick 2013 vintage versus the more fruit-forward 2015.

And this month's quaffer from the Alto-Langhe is a bargain. Some variation and the best bottles shine.

[Ian S]

A 1998 GD Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole for us tonight with pizza (albeit a proper home made one). Really enjoyable and ready (but should last). Not the greatest length or complexity, but over-analysis would detract from it just being a very enjoyable reasonably aged Nebbiolo.

[JamieBahrain]

Tried their recent releases ?

Certainly akin in many circles as the coach’s award for most improved .

I had a couple of older in pages above and similar- simple and enjoyable Barolo

[Ian S]

No Barolo wines, but dolcetto and barbera in recentish times, plus a Kyè in the cellar because weird stuff interests me!

Post-script to the Barolo - no sediment at the bottom, presumably filtered out. Customer friendly in one way, but I'm not sure it's better for the overall taste when mature.