The Auswine Forum

Thanks Ian.

We actually are mostly on common ground . I was presented with an option of participating in the promotion of the region and could not get involved because of the arguments you’ve presented . The folks in my ear are similar to those who must have been in Gallonis as his about face staggering !

I agree with counter-opinions to yours but the human failings of greed and tackiness are a very risky road. I can lean to this point of view but the failings you’ve highlighted may or may not be repeated .

Monforte is premiering as a last bastion these few days . I recommend folks base here as it’s not changed so much and what has changed is kind of neat - cool night life and wine themed bars etc.

Bunch of new three glass wines worth perusing -

https://www.gamberorosso.it/notizie/classifi ... 3-kMNuQps0

Rossco wrote:

winetastic wrote:

Ozzie W wrote: I've purposely avoided purchasing 2015 Barolo/Barbaresco... only bought 10 bottles to date, turning down most of the offers I receive. 2015 is a great vintage, but 2016 is even greater by all accounts. I plan to buy a lot of 2016's.

Wise. Have tasted both vintages widely both from as barrel samples and finished wines, 2015 is good to very good in my opinion, 2016 for my personal tastes is better than 2010.

See I have a dilemma at the moment as to 2015's vs 2016's

Do I hold off on 2016's because of how good they are or do I buy up all the 2015's I can now?

Reason I ask is im worried that due to the hyped vintage (and other reasons Jamie has mentioned already), wineries may take the opportunity to jack up the prices of their 2016 releases.

This increases the middle man markup as well.

BUT (and this this the big unknown) I dont know what the exchange rate will do when they are released. Aus $$ keeps going down and down and
this will increase the 2016 costs as well.

Right now the 2015's are (mostly) in Aus, freight, currency and markups all accounted for and im seeing some pretty good deals.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

It's always nice to have a mix of vintages. I'm buying a bit of 2015. Really like it. Bear in mind that while outstanding quality, 2016 was also a very large crop, so there's more wine out there. Perhaps idiot wine media should stop talking up 2016 so much.

Gary W wrote:
It's always nice to have a mix of vintages. I'm buying a bit of 2015. Really like it. Bear in mind that while outstanding quality, 2016 was also a very large crop, so there's more wine out there. Perhaps idiot wine media should stop talking up 2016 so much.

Thanks GW, Oz and everyone.

Theme im getting is basically buy as many good vintages as you can afford.

Cheers!

Plenty of 15’s will pip the 16’s in the long run . Just the way it goes in my experience . Probably more so than other regions as the dynamics frantic . From care in the vineyard and winemaking, as well as less lauded sites delivering with changes in climate and micro-climate .

Hi Jamie
Often it's the two 'name' villages (Barolo and Barbaresco) that bear the brunt of tourism/commercialisation. Barolo certainly does find itself on coach tour itineraries and the locals are adapting to service these tourists.
Other villages tend to lag behind in the level of tourism. Yes Monforte is good (and with great dining options), but so are Serralunga, Treiso and others. La Morra/Annunziata is a bit of a special case, being the epicentre of modernist winemaking and I've always felt it historically 'next in line' for tourism. Verduno is great for those wanting somewhere more 'untouched' and I've no doubt Novello would be the same.

I'm lucky that my buying is now very much in the 'top up' territory, so pronouncements from the critics can be easily ignored.

Regards
Ian

La Morra is a permanent tourist circus and Serralunga seems similar on weekends .

I’m in La Morra now hunting some rare wine and there are tourist buses everywhere . Wine prices same as Australia .

It’s certainly not going to upset newbees to the region but if you knew the way it was , Monforte is a lost in a bit of a time warp

Podere Ruggeri Corsin Barolo San Pietro 2007- Had this over dinner at Felicin, an old favourite, which has certainly achieved more acclaim of late .

Beautifully scented wine . Light menthol and a sweet Balsamic lift, Modena like, and layers of red choc berry, dark tar in leather and cloves . With food delivers cleansing red fruits and a darker fruit profile riding the acidity on a long and gratifyingly simple finish .

92pts

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JamieBahrain wrote:La Morra is a permanent tourist circus and Serralunga seems similar on weekends .

I’m in La Morra now hunting some rare wine and there are tourist buses everywhere . Wine prices same as Australia .

It’s certainly not going to upset newbees to the region but if you knew the way it was , Monforte is a lost in a bit of a time warp

What a shame, La Morra is my favourite!

MXP-CDG

Milano duty free is worse than a joke ! Couple of fancy looking ogliarchs walked away y- but whose the goose who bought the Gaja? Ceretto is cheaper in Australia .

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Duty free has long since become a rip-off, but in the not too distant past there were some really good little shops in smaller airports. At best it's an option of convenience, but hot & bright display conditions tend to steer me away from anything but the sturdiest wines - a barolo chinato was the last bottle I recall buying nigh on a decade ago.

Yep only good for Gin and Whisky...got some real bargains in Spain
Cheers Craig

Busy holiday and ran out of time to post my last few days in Monforte. I tasted at Conterno Fantino and Domenico Clerico. Fantino is a spectacular homestead and winery sitting above Monforte and Clerico the eye-sore along the road from Barolo to Monforte.

I've seen Clerico pip many lauded "traditional" wines in blind format at the 15 years + age say. Part of my reason to spend time in Monforte ( Barolo Boys country ) to try and get a handle on my personal observations.

Tastings revealed no clear answers though attention to detail, willingness to change and innovation at both wineries appeared exemplary.

http://www.conternofantino.it/home_en.html

http://www.domenicoclerico.com/page/eng/azienda.php

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Arriving back from Europe I tried these. Jet lag or new to nebbiolo again, I couldn't enjoy either that much over a few days. Both were recent six pack arrivals from bargain-buying on a UK exchange so I opened another two bottles a few days later


Scarzello Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Merenda 2008-High VA of the first bottle less distracting ( probable taint as nebbiolo tends to behave and show this way ). Balsamic and developed red fruit and tar notes, prior a simple expression that has a good palate spread and an even drive - carrying the aromatics in flavour persistence with tannins neatly resolved. Another underperforming Sarmassa?

88pts

Rizzi Barbaresco Boito Riserva 2010- Caught this on day three with the second bottle in a convincing place. Suggesting it needs burying in the cellar for 10 years. Darker fruit notes, unevolved, gently peppered and lending toward dark violets and berries. Has the piercing carry of many 2010 Barbarescos- fills out appropriately when showing its best with tobacco/ dark berry fruit notes in even extract. Powerful minerality, that with imagination, matches the heavy white marls of the tops of Cru Rizzi.

93pts+



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I'm supposed to be in the Barossa drinking Old Block from the early 90's and enjoingy the local dining. Chaos in HKG sees roads blocked and I missed my flight. So I cracked a few bottles of Ca' del Baio Barbarescos from Asili. I find this producer excellent. Crafted wines that when so young, need to be seen over a day or two, to show their potential. I finished off both these wines last night in a BBQ environment and their immediacy yet long aging ability exceptional. Delicious Barbaresco that shows richness, evenness and balance on day two. Day one there's perhaps a little coarseness of oak and fruit tannin that detracts from the wine, yet how convincingly it comes together with aeration, shows the cleverness of the producer and the need for cellaring to bring out the wines best ( 10 years at least ). Easily 94+ for the 2016 and 93pts + for the 2014.

Brovia was popped and poured to show a finely structured and elegant style of Barolo for a guest. Incidentally I have just had 6 bottles of all their 2015 Barolos and a magnum of each delivered- 30 bottles and 5 magnums. A superb producer!

I opened a 2008 Sperino 'Uvaggio' last night. It's their Costa della Sesia regional wine, with 70% nebbiolo and the rest typical local varieties. Lovely nose and still with some grip and enough depth / good suppotive acidity to offer future potential. I'm sure their Boca is better, but for a £20 wine, I think it's done very well indeed. I'd buy again.

Cascina delle Rose Langhe Nebbiolo 2016- Great to see Riccardo and family doing so well on a visit to cellar door last month. Three glasses for 2016 Rio Sordo Barbaresco and Tre Stelle all sold out. A new Cru may be released soon although quantities minute.

Revisiting their 2016 Langhe nebbiolo shows a more settled wine than on release. Cool and long in the house style. Cranberry, minerals, pepper and thyme. Has little bits of all you'd expect in good nebbiolo in the nervous, modest intensity of youthful vines.

90pts

Virna Barolo 2013- Smooth, near syrupy aromatics with chocolate oak and violet jubes. Expressive palate, smooth, inviting and even. Falls apart on day three suggesting an immediate and cosmopolitan style.

91pts

Rocche Costamagna Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata 2014- A simply charming expression that presents limitation of the vintage in a convincing manner. Heathland, pepper, rose petals and classic red and black. Easy going spread, sweet fruited and smoothly layered. Completes autumnal and in gentle black pepper. Very easy drinking.

93pts


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Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Cannubi 2012- Decanted for two hours and consumed over an evening which produced a better result than first sip!

I miss drinking lots of Cannubi ( especially the mostly Cannubi Mascarello ). Now it's too prized to drink too early and better to leave in the cellar in pursuit of optimum drinking.

A wine of many layers aromatically and in flavour profile. Over the night, melting into spicy dark fruit notes on both. There's still additional aromatic complexity with airy menthol, herbs, tar and white pepper. Sandy Cannubi soils driving palate complexity with a dark Dutch licorice saline and spice flavour and texture. Even and elegant - sweet and moreish Cannubi tannin unfolding in the finish.

Cut a slice of hard Langhe cheese to see where I thought the wine may be in the future. Although not overpowered by the cheese, it was absorbed and showed the restraint of the season. The wine's great now, better in five, though not the most long-living of vintages.

94pts





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I probably don't say it enough Jamie, but I do appreciate your energy & enthusiasm for drinking and posting TNs on so many Nebbiolo wines. Thank you.

I have a couple of bottles of the 2010 Rocche Costamagna Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata, picked up for the princely sum of £20 a bottle from Majestic (the UK bottle shop chain). Neither opened yet, but your note gives good reassurance.

Borgogno... I'm a fan of their older wines (original bottlings rather than the pricey reconditioned ones which many have reservations about). Four-square wines for sure, but the rewards at full maturity have been excellent (1961 and 1971 riservas both wonderful aged wines, the 1962 riserva much more faded). I've just got a 1996 Riserva in the cellar and in no rush to open it. I must admit I'm wary of the Farinetti (Eataly) ownership, with their wines getting the prominent displays in the Eataly shops and also being present in 'commercial' outlets. Has the style changed? Will it change? Hence TNs on the new era wines are eagerly read.

Regards
Ian

Yes, Rocche Costamagna is on my radar now across their range. Not as a potential skyrocket to fame, more as a producer delivering the season at its best. I put my money where my mouth is and ordered six of their barbera as quaffers. Rocche dell'Annunziata is a Cru often drowned in oak- not so here with Costamagna.

Borgogno I've had a lot of. Not sure why, but the library black caps more a rarity. Back a page I had the 58 and 61 both in stunning form. Especially considering Italian storage! Sort of why I scoff at some cellaring recommendations these days ( even with stylistic change in Barolo ) as they are ridiculously low and don't take into account perfect cellaring conditions.

Too many collectors new to Barolo do lay faith in very old wines that are in my experience 50% hit or miss ( 70's or earlier ). With a hit often being a rusty and bare pass. I was private dining with the Wine Advocate Burgundy guy ( can't recall his name- UK fellow ) and we had a long chat about this as somebody tainted our Burgundy event with a rusty as nails old Barolo. Conclusion was Borgogno not a bad bet for ancient quality.

Yes, there's a new style of Borgogno here. It's not the riserva of course but Cannubi. Softer, gentler and more presentable earlier. But nobody makes them true to the old style? Well not exactly, there's been improvements all round, even amongst staunch traditionalists.

No problems posting here. I love this thread as it serves my own interests. I'm hopeless remembering Italian names so a note and a photograph brings it all rushing back when I search a producer I may have tried. I love to open three or four Barolos and drink them over a week. I always thought they never tired- its only now through expereince I'm seeing some vintages ( 14 ) or excessive modern crafting ( Virna above ) where Barolo tires like shiraz after a few days.

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The Knights of Alba is a lot of fun. We have a chapter in Hong Kong that has been invigorated with some amazing folks ( cheers JC ).

Tonight we dined at the Hyatt in Wanchai. Before dinner there was a truffle market where diners could add extra truffle to their dished. Delightful!

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Just some quick vibes- Pio Cesare's Barolo 2015 is expressive, floral and approachable- tannins firming. For now or will do nicely in 10 +. Ceretto Barolo Brunate 2015 was a pleaser amongst good friends, Piedmont cognoscenti. It's well crafted and I'm enjoying the wound-back winemaker's hand these days - think the Aussie winemaker had a little to do with this. Anyways, an exceptional expression of Brunate, I'm happy to buy for the medium to long term. Germano's Barolo Cerretta 2015 was excellent. Approachable and distincly Serralunga with dark choc and tar fruit and bone-iron minerality. Will pursue this producer for the cellar. Oddero's Bussia Vigna Mondoca 2013 Riserva was a 96pts + wine for me- impeccably balanced, drinkable now with great joy even with wrapped, dense and unexpressive layers of fruit. Bruno Rocca's Riserva Curra was a little out of place- a touch flamboyant in ripeness- not unlikable, just out of place and needing a different time and place.

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One of the greats. Thanks to Nigel who was responsible for revealing the magic of Piedmont to me through truly mature bottles long ago.

Not the greatest bottle. It is still pleasurable with a big lift and porty red fruits



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Truffle market.

Despite there being Lafite and Margaux tonight, these wines were the ones I was looking most forward to. For a number of reasons. Firstly, G Conterno 1990 is well lauded and I was hoping it would pip all others in magnum format.

Secondly, Clerico is a modernist and many arguments from newbees to Piedmont are decades old now. There is so much stylistic change the modernist versus traditionalist camp is long gone. But hey, that's just other folks journeys and perhaps unfortunate lack of exposure. Now the real reason for my excitement here, is some of these "modernists" from these turbulent times of open warfare, with 30 years in the cellar, produce epiphanies for those locked in binary argument. Nobody believes me, so I often quote Gaia Gaja, who has presented Altare and B Mascarello from this same period and nobody could pick them- they were both noble wines!

So, after that rant, both Clericos corked. FFS! A harsh snapshot into my future drinking as I build a lifetime supply of Piedmont wines for retirement.

And Conterno. Stunning. A wine of poise and balance. Effortless. It's dark Serralunga- dense coal, tar, chicory and with autumnal complexity. I actually think it was underprepared. Here's another fallacy ( decanting Barolo ) as the fresher spectrum of fruit didn't come out to play restricting this wine below top marks in this sitting.


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JamieBahrain wrote:
So, after that rant, both Clericos corked. FFS! A harsh snapshot into my future drinking as I build a lifetime supply of Piedmont wines for retirement.

I feel your pain. Last two Italian Themed dinners:

2000 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Paje - Corked (Ox)
2004 Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva Rocche di Castiglione - Corked (TCA)
2006 Benevelli Piero Barolo - Corked (Ox)
2007 Benevelli Piero Barolo - Corked (Ox)

Worse part is, all corks looked perfect, no leakage, no staining along the sides.

Ouch....

Not telling you to suck eggs Rossco, sometimes with nebbiolo, try again in a few days if not obviously TCA. Seems three of them are oxygen ingress issues which seems unusual without description.

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I have a friend who imports Brovia so obviously in his support I went long on 2015- and for other reasons not just including a superb and continually improving producer with great vineyards.

I opened the Freisa. The bouquet of red plums and roses was so powerful I though one of the boxes contained a broken bottle!

Scarpa Barbaresco Tettineive 1989- Seven bottles straight for their family cellars. I tried all of them as host for the evening. A remarkable clarity, for an old style of Barbaresco. Perfectly mature yet an energetic youth! Clean, pure aromatics with a lift - catching primary red fruit notes evenly nuanced with dried fruits. I guess a classic tar and roses! Resolved, long and appropriately commanding.

96pts


Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 1999- The unopened case bought from a UK merchant I refuse to deal with contained 5 x 99 and 1 x 2000. Typical of their dishonest shenanigans. We sourced another to make six for the night.

Aerated for an hour. Again, I tried all the bottles. Very consistent bar one- which was more advanced. Cicala is a picturesque vineyard in Bussia ( Monforte ). There's a lovely hike worth doing in the morning that takes you around Bussia Cru I'd recommend. Did it a month or so back.

Great wine. In a good spot though I would not at all be shy of serious decanting to draw out purer primary fruit. A sea of dark cocoa, tar and dark dried fruit with intermingling complex scents- just a hint of red florals beneath. All class on the palate, spread is even, layered and sufficiently open to draw the wines complex personality- near perfect integration of tannins.

A producer often delivering mercurial experiences with their wines. We are always trying to unlock the confusion. Another hint we discovered was they scrape their big botti every year- which often draws barrique/ modernist slander.

95pts+

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Barbaresco is in a golden period- weather, winemaking and vineyard detail and a surging pride. The wines are offering early glory and immediacy compared to their Barolo counterparts and will significantly benefit medium to long term cellaring.


Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Normale 2016- High expectations will be met; probably more so those who put a box at the bottom of their cellar. It's a wine that will also convert many to nebbiolo as it sits easy on release whilst offering an obvious to all, future eminence.

Aromatics are rich and deep. There's an illuminating and freshening brightness to dark rose scents atop of black cherry. Lifted pepper, violets and cedar notes in complexity. Supple yet dense on the palate; it delivers the aromatics in a classic Barbaresco flavour profile that we are now seeing in the best vintages of this millennium. Cool, clear acidity carries tobacco/ sour cherry notes long after a gratifying sip.

94pts+

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Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco 2015- When you cross the Tanaro and drive toward Neive, Barbaresco Tower turn-off to right, shortly after over your left shoulder, you will see the site of the greatest Italian wines made. Bruno Giacosa's Santo Stefano Riservas come from Albesani Cru. It's obvious; you'll see the neat vines in rich marls and the perfect sun-scooping aspect. Sadly, Castello di Neive now makes their own Santo Stefano Riserva and Regular bottling- the wines being a way off Bruno's.

Popped and poured. Dry gumleaf with underneath aromas of spicy and whiter peppered red and black fruits, sweet licorice melt and a base of rose and dried floral incense. Big and broad, starts all over the place due high extract, but does end up complete in the form of a lot of 2015's. Fruit is dark, with leather, saline and a light animale buzz. A little oak in the background though this does aid a drying finish. The best glasses excellent and Castello di Neive is a no-brainer to watch! I think they'll be right up there soon.

93pts+


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Bruno Rocca Barbaresco 2015- I was concerned this may be a little over done in vintage 2015. I peeked at some notes online which sounded shiraz-like and am still discussing with friends the flamboyant performance of Bruno Rocca's Curra Riserva from 2013 a few weeks ago.

On first pass it did seem a little big and blackberry fruited. So poured into a half-decanter and returned a few hours later.

Dry undergrowth and heathland pleasantly underpins mentholated red cherry fruit and rose jelly. Keep the wine cool ( say European room temp ) as this drives good freshness and aids a palate liveliness. Red cherry notes, finely peppered and seasoned with Mediterranean dry herbs- similar to the aromatic complexity . Very easy structurally- too many claim this typical of the whole vintage- though here its clear we have a very early maturing Barbaresco.

This is a great wine. It's very presentable now and would make a superb introduction to nebbiolo. It would also dismiss the simplicity of the old modernist/traditionalist - Curra Riserva 2013 may not !



91pts







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Agreed - Produtorri dei Barbaresco’s Barbaresco ‘16 is stunning.

JamieBahrain wrote:Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Normale 2016- High expectations will be met; probably more so those who put a box at the bottom of their cellar. It's a wine that will also convert many to nebbiolo as it sits easy on release whilst offering an obvious to all, future eminence.

Aromatics are rich and deep. There's an illuminating and freshening brightness to dark rose scents atop of black cherry. Lifted pepper, violets and cedar notes in complexity. Supple yet dense on the palate; it delivers the aromatics in a classic Barbaresco flavour profile that we are now seeing in the best vintages of this millennium. Cool, clear acidity carries tobacco/ sour cherry notes long after a gratifying sip.

94pts+

Thanks for the note Jaime. Went to a tasting at a retail store in Melbourne at the end of November and they had the 2014, 2015 and 2016 open and I bought one bottle and opted for this of the three vintages.

First Barbarescos ever so have no idea how they will develop, but this seemed the most balanced and interesting wine. When would you recommend opening it 2, 5 or 10 years?

Cheers

Michael