Last cellar door report of three.
Fekete means "Black†in Hungarian and Béla Fekete is also a Somló Hill legend in the North West of Hungary along with Györgykovács. Béla is a great man and a fighter, still working the vineyards and making the wine. He’ll be 80 years old in December. Meeting him is a special occasion, not only because of the wines but because his wife's Bori’s hospitality and home cooking. When I rang Mr.Fekete he wasn’t at the cellar door and he wasn’t planning coming there either today, however when he heard my voice he said. "Of course we’ll be at the winery, I’ll cook goulash for you on the open fire!†I said great and the rest of my group were beaming because home cooked goulash for a Hungarian is a huge drawcard. I haven't eaten meat for 13 years now, so for me goulash is out of the question but I didn’t have the heart to tell Béla that over the phone. I had enough carnivores with me anyway. So in the car, on the road and beautiful Somló whites here we come!
Goulash watching at the Fekete cellar door
Somló Hill is an old volcano and the whites from here are fiery, long lived wines. The best are full bodied, mineral and powerful not unlike a white Bordeaux. The main difference being that on Somló indigenous Hungarian grapes are used like Furmint, Hárslevelű and Juhfark. Not far from Fekete is the new Kreinbacher winery, they planted Viognier and Shiraz on the hill but we have to wait a few more years to see how they turn out. As Csaba parks the car we are greeted by Morzsi (Breadcrumb) the black shepherd dog. It’s always a warm occasion to see the Fekete couple. They are so genuine and lovely and we spend many hours together, especially today because the goulash takes over 2 hours to cook. As always we are off to the cool dark cellar to taste the barrel samples first.
I love the view from the Fekete cellar door
2005 FEKETE Somlói Olaszrizling
Grapes picked from a leased 1 hectare site. Very light and soft wine. Not much going on here and as I don’t score under 90 points, no score from me.
2005 FEKETE Somlói Hárslevelű (Linden leafed)
Fresh green Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon nose. Extremely good, tight and powerful palate. Superb length and acid structure. Promising great things to come. I must buy this when bottled next year. 95 points.
2005 FEKETE Somlói Furmint
Classical full bodied, fiery Furmint. Well balanced tight wine. Will be long lived. 92 points.
2005 FEKETE Somlói Chardonnay
This is Mr. Fekete’s favourite everyday drinking wine. He knows that I am critical of Somló Chardonnay but I give a break to him today and finish my glass with a smile. Varietal, pleasant, medium weight wine with lovely acid structure but doesn’t reach the 90 points required for me to get excited.
2005 FEKETE Somlói Juhfark - Barrel No.1
Dry white but the nose suggest botrytis. Vanilla on the palate but uniquely varietal and powerful. Full bodied, needs the time in barrel. May turn out very well. 90 points.
2005 FEKETE Somlói Juhfark-Barrel No.2
Now to something world class! These grapes were picked with higher sugar levels. Beautifully fragrant nose, juicy, and tremendously powerful and structured palate. Hugely exciting array of flavours. Tremendous length and a mile long finish. If bottled like this, world class, long lived and excellent. 97 points. I shall find out next year. Let’s hope Béla will not blend it with barrel No.1.
By this time I was the only person left tasting with Béla in the dark and cold cellar. Even the dog left to enjoy the beautiful views and sunshine outside. I could tell that everybody was gathered around the goulash. So out came lunch and the bottled samples.
Tasting the barrel samples with Somló legend, Béla Fekete
Béla and wife Bori got a shock when I told them that I won’t be eating the goulash but want more of the superb, freshly baked cheese cones. “Why didn’t you tell Attila? We would have cooked something else†Béla tells me as I watch them all getting into the goulash which is surely delicious.
2004 FEKETE Somlói Furmint
Colour bright clear. Fine, medium bodied wine that will last for 7-8 years. Lingering flavours, tasty finish. Sweet almond on the finish. Good result from a difficult vintage. 92 points.
2003 FEKETE Somlói Hárslevelű
This was last year’s success story. Sold out quickly in Hungary back then but I bought some that Adair tried and liked in Australia. I felt honoured that Béla opened a bottle today especially for us. Colour bright clear. Flowery complex aromas on the nose, very Alsatian wine (sold in an long neck Alsace style bottle as well). Full bodied, rich and creamy on the palate. Aromatic and fruity wine. Beautiful drinking with roasted hazelnuts and fresh walnuts on the finish. Gained more complexity since last tasted. Now to 3 years. Impressive. 93 points. Not available retail anymore I am so happy that I can buy a bottle today.
2000 FEKETE Somlói Hárslevelű
“Let’s taste something older†says Béla and disappears in the back of the cellar. He selected this 6 year old dry white from a botrytis affected vintage which mostly produced short lived wines. Colour golden bright. Sweet apples and figs on the nose suggesting botrytis. Soft, mature, medium bodied palate with lovely flavour structure. The wine is good, a great survivor that’ll go for a few more years. 90 points.
2004 FEKETE Somlói Juhfark
Juhfark (Sheep’s tail) usually has a high acid structure. It is not easy to find a good one of this rare white but in Hungary, and perhaps the world, it grows best on Somló. Colour slight golden, barrel fermented and matured in new Hungarian oak for 12 months. Brilliant white stone fruits on the nose and palate, even resembles a dry Riesling. Full bodied fiery wine that drinks well from now to 10 years. Very long finish with mouthwatering acid. This is so lovely! Bought some on the spot for myself and Adair. 93 points.
My favourite today is the superb 2004 Juhfark (Sheep’s tail)
I always get tipsy while tasting at the Fekete cellar door because there are always many wines to try. To make matters worse, we all get a shot of home distilled Somló brandy which has an immediate effect on my 18 year old niece. She becomes starry eyed within seconds and naps in the car all the way home. While everyone is lazing on the sun among the vines Bori shows the cellar guest book filled with photos and I realise just how popular this cellar door is. Béla talks about the future, mentioning his son Zsolt who will take over from him when he can no longer work the vineyards. I look at him today, so strong at nearly eighty. I tell him that I’ll be here again next year and he should be here too. “It’s a deal†he says. As we drive away I end up looking back a long time.
Leaving Somló “The forgotten hat of God†for the last time this year
Every year I go, the wines and people of Somló touch my heart.
Cheers,
Attila
Visited and tasted: July 2006
