Grand Cru (Perth) Tasting Group – Rhone Red Blends

[Waiters Friend]

G'day

This month’s tasting focussed on Rhone Reds – the styles of red blends that are traditionally found in France’s Rhone Valley, but are imitated or experimented with all over the world. Australia is no exception, with the Barossa and McLaren Vale producing blends of Grenache, Mourvedre (Mataro), Shiraz and other varieties, while (depending on who you read) Chateauneuf Du Pape can include up to 18 different varieties (half of which might be white grapes).

As usual, wines were masked, with only the vintage known. Place of origin and grape composition were all unknown, and this led to much discussion / guesswork (and laughter!) on these fronts.

13 wines in total were tasted:

Myattsfield GSM 2023 (Swan Valley, Perth Hills W.A.). 55% Swan Valley Grenache, with 36% Shiraz and 9% Mourvedre from the Perth Hills. The Grenache and Shiraz were co-fermented, with the Mourvedre component blended in after. Garnet in colour. The nose is fresh and juicy, with cherry cola, raspberry, rosemary and other dried herbs, some earthiness and white pepper. The palate shows bright cherries, sarsaparilla and more white pepper. Tannins are fine and only slightly grippy. Good length and highly regarded by the group.

Green Door Spanish Steps 2023 (Ferguson Valley W.A., 14.5%). 62.5% Grenache, 32.5% Shiraz and 4% Monastrell (Mourvedre). We lost 1% somewhere. Garnet colour. Dark cherries and a herbal nose (one taster spotted bergamot), slightly medicinal. There’s more dark cherries and aniseed on the palate. Tannins are fine but woody, and while the acid balances the wine to some extent, the overall impression was very dry. Reasonable length.

Domaine Du Trapadis Les Perrieres 2022 (Rhone Valley, France, 14%). A Cotes du Rhone from the village of Roaix with 70% Grenache, 20% Shiraz and 10% Cinsault. Slightly darker than the previous two wines. There’s tar, soap, dark cherries and menthol on the nose, which is more savoury than fruity. The palate shows more dark cherries, some roses and other florals. Drying tannins. This appears richer or fuller flavoured than the previous two wines, and the majority of tasters picked this as Old World.

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Spinifex Papillon 2021 (Barossa Valley, S.A.13.5%). 86% Grenache, 14% Cinsault. A very light garnet colour, almost pinot-like. A modest nose, with soap, herbs (especially lavender), lanolin, and sour cherry. The palate is quite savoury, with cherry cola, prickly acid and a short finish.

Grant Burge Holy Trinity 2021 GSM (Barossa Valley S.A., 14.5%). A darker garnet colour. Cherries, blueberries, milk chocolate, and eucalypt on the nose. There’s more blueberry on the palate, which is more savoury and earthy, with velvety tannins and good supporting acid. Good length and palate weight, and well regarded by the group.

John Duval Plexus 2021 (Barossa Valley, S.A). Garnet / crimson in colour and bright in the glass. Bright raspberries and cherries on the nose, with fresh herbs, five spice and a little cinnamon. The palate shows rip “Wild Berry” fruits, alongside savouriness and earthiness, star anise, liquorice, and a yeast or Vegemite character. Good length.

Tardieu-Laurent Les Lauzieres Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2021 (Rhone Valley, France). Garnet with some bricking. A modest nose, with light fruits, menthol, herbs and is slightly vegetal. The palate is herbal / medicinal, with black tea, and liquorice. Acid is slightly tart and tannins are modest.

Kalleske Clarry’s 2020 GSM (Barossa Valley S.A. 14.5%). Crimson in colour. The nose was initially muted and savoury, but dark cherries and blackberries emerged, along with some fruit cake and smoke. The palate shows tar, milk chocolate and stewed dark fruits. The smoke noted on the nose reappears on the palate. Tannins and drying and grippy, with tingly acid and good length. Slightly bitter finish (this provoked discussion about the influence of Mourvedre / Mataro in the blend). Lots of oak.

La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Cotes du Rhone Villages 2020 (Rhone Valley, France, 14.5%). 60% Grenache, 30% Shiraz and 10% Mourvedre. Garnet colour. Cherries, blueberry and rosemary on the nose. Under-ripe fruits on the palate which is very dry. There’s noticeable glycerols and alcohol heat. Bitter finish.

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Rockford Moppa Springs 2018 GSM (Barossa Valley S.A. 13.7%). Garnet colour. Fruit cake, cola, red fruits and rosemary on the nose. There’s more raisin, brandy and cola on the palate, with some earthiness. Acid and tannins both play a supporting role, and the finish is long and slightly bitter (we’re seeing more of this).

Cellier Des Dauphins Reserve Grenache Syrah 2018 (Rhone Valley, France). Garnet with signs of bricking. A modest nose with bacon and a vegetal character. Fruit almost absent. The palate is thin and earthy, with drying tannins. Fruit has dropped out.

Guillaume Gonnet Le Mentor Gigondas 2015 (Rhone Valley, France, 14.5%). Crimson in colour, tawny at the rim. The nose shows earthiness, menthol, slight medicinal character, dark cherries, ripe rhubarb and dried herbs. There’s more menthol and cough syrup on the palate, with dark chocolate and more herbs. Tannins are chalky and the wine finishes long. Slight alcohol heat.

Teusner Avatar 2015 (Barossa Valley, S.A. 14.5%). This is a Grenache, Mourvedre, Shiraz blend. Garnet / crimson in colour. Fruit cake, earthiness, blueberry, red fruits, liquorice, herbs and mocha on the nose. The palate is rich, with Christmas cake, vanillan oak, dark fruits and some earth. Tannins are velvety and the wine finishes quite long. Highly regarded by the group.

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Wine of the night was the Teusner Avatar 2015, by a small margin.

As mentioned earlier, there was considerable discussion around old vs new world, and this led to discussions about the longevity of wines from different areas and climates. I’m not sure we reached any definite conclusions; however, it seems reasonable to go for these blends from warmer areas, and that mostly they are made for short- to medium-term drinking. There’s going to be exceptions, of course.

A tasting that perhaps raised more questions than it answered! Thanks to all who contributed their wines and their opinions.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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