This month’s tasting focused on Pinot Noir. We’ve done a few of these over the years, but this time we looked at slightly older wines. Interestingly, only three of the nine wines tasted were Australian, with two Kiwis and the remainder Burgundy. A small but enthusiastic group worked its way through them – a tough job, but someone had to do it
As usual, the wines were tasted youngest to oldest, and tasted blind, with only the vintage being known.
Hugues Pavelot Chorey-Les-Beaune 2016 (Burgundy, France). 13% alcohol. Candied cherry on the nose, with slightly under-ripe strawberry, bubblegum, a little charcuterie, menthol, pine nuts and one taster noted ‘minty toothpaste’. There’s some earthiness on the palate alongside the fruit flavours. Modest tannins, supportive acid, and a raspberry tang emerged with time in the glass. A touch of alcohol heat, and medium length. Drink now.
Happs Pinot Noir 2016 (Margaret River, W.A.) 13% alcohol. I wasn’t expecting a Margaret River pinot in this line-up. A perfumed nose, with strawberry, cherry, pot pourri and dried oregano. The palate is fruit forward, with savoury notes. Aniseed, white pepper, dried herbs and medicinal or stalky notes. Medium tannins, and sharp acid. The wine flows smoothly through to the finish. Well balanced. Also considered to be a ‘drink now’ proposition. Well regarded by the group.
Domaine Fobert Clos De La Bidaude 2014 (Morey St Denis, Burgundy). A monopole (singe vineyard) wine. Lovely fresh strawberry and liqueur cherry, alongside mushroom, earthiness, and charcuterie. There’s also menthol and baking spices. The palate has less of the fruit; rather, there’s forest floor, herbs, gravel, bacon fat and celery salt. Tannins are drying, and there’s good supporting acid. Medium finish. Drink now, or maybe a year ago.
Isabel Estate 2014 (Marlborough, N.Z.). Perfumed nose, with strawberry and cherry cola. The palate is fruit dominant, and richer or bigger than previous wines, without being especially complex. Mushroom emerged with time in the glass. Medium tannins, good acid and length. Probably has another year or two in it.
Fromm 2012 (Marlborough, N.Z.). Complex nose, with dark cherry, wet stone, rosemary, dried herbs and forest floor. On the palate, there’s a rich core of forest fruits, some sap, intense strawberry, mulberry and all quite concentrated. Meaty notes emerged with time in the glass, and there’s lots happening here. Some tasters comments that the wine grows on you after not being initially appealing. Not likely to improve.
Heemskerk 2011 (Tasmania). Sour cherry and pine forest on the nose. The palate shows cherry, menthol warmth, darker fruits and higher acid than previous wines. Medium length and at its peak.
Then a trio of 2010s An excellent vintage for pinot noir just about everywhere.
Marchand and Burch Vosne-Romanee 2010 (Burgundy, France). A bright and perfumed nose, with five spice, sour cherry, star anise, blood orange / Campari over developing fruit flavours. The palate shows succulent rich fruits, sour cherry, dark forest fruits, mulberry, blackcurrant followed by fresh gravel. Tannins are integrated and this wine was highly regarded by the group.
Domaine Thenard Clos Saint Pierre 2010 Premier Cru: Raspberry and burnt orange on the nose. No sign of earthiness or mushroom. More strawberry and red fruits on the palate. Acid is slightly prominent, tannins are integrated, and there’s a slight astringency to the finish. It’s elegant, and fruit starting to fade.
Marchand and Burch Gibraltar Rock 2010 (Porongorups, W.A.). Ripe red fruits and strawberry compote on the nose. Rich sweet cherry fruit on the palate, with forest floor and drying tannins. Acid appears lower than other wines, but is still sufficiently supportive. There’s very slight alcohol warmth and the wine finishes reasonably long. Well regarded by the group.
A fascinating tasting – nine wines from 3 countries and a range of vintages. Wine of the night was the Marchand and Burch Vosne-Romanee 2010, by a clear margin.
Cheers
Allan