Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) - Bordeaux Blends 2016 or older

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

Following our recent ‘Shiraz 2016 or older’ tasting, it followed with inevitability that we might repeat the exercise with a different grape. In this case - several grapes.

Bordeaux blends can contain some or all of the following grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Carmenere. In practice, is it rare to see all six varieties in the blend.

For the purposes of this exercise, we looked at Bordeaux blends from anywhere in the world that contained at least three of these grape varieties. Some contained five. Four countries were represented.

And the wines were:

Grand Cassat 2016 (Pomerol, France): Juicy blackberry and raspberry on the nose, with a little vanilla, tobacco, plums and mocha. The palate continues with bright fruits, a chalky mouthfeel with grippy tannins, good acid and medium length. Well regarded by the group.

Higher Plane ‘The Messenger’ 2016 (Margaret River, WA): Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, presumably in descending order. Dark and red berries, plums, lifted damson, and cedary oak on the nose. Some tasters comments on strawberries and cream. Bright fruits dominate the palate, with good supporting acid and dusty tannins, herbs and brambles. Medium bodied and savoury on the back palate. Still youthful with years ahead of it.

M de Marquis de Terme 2016 (Margaux, France): This is the second wine of the Chateau of the same name. More savoury than the previous two wines, with the slightly tart red fruit in the background. Dusty tannins, moderate acid and a little thin on the mid-palate. Medium bodied.

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Sunnyhurst 2015 (Bridgetown, WA). Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Initial VA on the nose, with menthol, leather , tobacco, mocha, plums, a little sourness and one taster described “old lady musk” (!). The musk continues on the palate, which is slightly medicinal, meaty and gamey, with tarts fruits, sharp acid and earthiness. Complex but unbalanced.

Hay Shed Hill “Morrison’;s Gift” 2014 (Margaret River, WA): Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Merlot 20%, Petit Verdot 20%, Malbec 10%, Cabernet Franc 10%. Tobacco, red plums, violets, menthol and a faint hint of leather on the nose. The palate has gentle fruits, with soft acid, and a creamy mouthfeel. Balanced and probably at its peak. Well regarded by the group.

Villafonte 2013 (Stellenbosch, South Africa): Cabernet Sauvignon 58%, Merlot 21%, Cabernet Franc 13%, Malbec 8%. Earthy nose, with Cherry Ripe, lather, dried herbs and tomato leaf. The palate is more lively, with vibrant fruit and some viscosity. Slight bitterness and an intimation of cough medicine were noted.

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Craggy Range “Sophia” 2013 (Gimlett Gravels, NZ): Very similar to the Voyager Estate (below). Over-ripe plums.

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2012 (Margaret River, WA): Cabernet Sauvignon 91%, Merlot 6%, Petit Verdot 3%. Expressive nose, with blackberries, plums, dried herbs, Christmas fruits and cinnamon. The palate shows juicy red fruits (including tart raspberries), and plums. There’s well integrated and barely noticeable tannins, juicy acid, and black pepper. Medium length and body.

Lindemans Pyrus 2012 (Coonawarra, SA): Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Very fruit forward, with black and blue fruits and cocoa powder on the nose. Chunky tannins, supporting acid, superb texture, long finish. Still youthful and highly regarded by the group.

Higher Plane ‘The Messenger’ 2011 (Margaret River, WA): Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Developed black and red fruits, ripe raspberry, Coconut Rough, nutmeg, cloves, cocoa and mocha on the nose. A deep, rich and textured palate, with dusty integrated tannins and supporting acid. It’s fresh for its age, very well balanced and full bodied. Highly regarded by the group.

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Chateau Mongravey 2010 (Margaux, France): Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 33%, Petit Verdot 2%. Initial VA. Modest nose, with dark developed fruits, leather and sour cherry. Tart red fruits on the palate, with earthiness, high acid and tannins like black tea. Medium bodied only.

Wills Domain Bitza 2008 (Margaret River WA): Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet France and Cabernet Sauvignon, presumably in descending order. Expressive nose, with dark and red fruits, celery salt, fennel, leather and tobacco. Palate shows developed fruits, integrated tannins, and freshening acid. Finishes long and was similar to the 2012 Pyrus.

Chateau Bel Air Lagrave 1989 (Medoc, France): Strongly earthy on the nose, with gun smoke, leather and menthol. The palate shows drying tea-like tannins and diminishing fruits, which leaves acid dominant. Declining

Wine of the night was Higher Plane ‘The Messenger’ 2011. However, we sampled a couple of bonus bottles as well, which appear in the photos – a 2016 Chateau Chasse Spleen (Bordeaux) and a Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2011. Both showed very well, and the Voyager would have given the Messenger a run for its money had it been included in the main tasting.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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[VinoEd]

Thanks Allan.

2011 such a great vintage in Margaret River.

Great to hear re Voyager Estate. I’ve got a few of those which I’ll look forward to trying at some point in the future.
Cheers, Ed