TN: Last dinner of 2021

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GraemeG
Posts: 1737
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2003 8:53 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

TN: Last dinner of 2021

Post by GraemeG »

[url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=47793]NOBLEROTTERSSYDNEY - A FINE FINALE - Fix, St James, Sydney (8/12/2021)[/url]

Billed as ‘Top Winery Night’ we saw a near full-house of fully-vaccinated diners with a mix of mostly locally-bottled offerings for the last dinner of this most wretched of years.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535171]2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne[/url] - France, Champagne
    {cork, 12.5%} [Gordon] Just a wonderful nose; all sourdough and brioche and autolysis. Quite enchanting. The palate is pretty austere and even immature; sour/dry and savoury. Like it’s closed down or something. I let it warm in the glass a bit but it was still a fairly obstinate as far as flavour goes. Powerful, vigorous, medium/large bubbles. Impressive palate but really needs time now.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535172]2013 Georg Breuer Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling[/url] - Germany, Rheingau
    {AP 3 14, cork, 11%} [Graeme] A monopol vineyard of 5.4ha sitting high on the north bank of, and a way back from, the Rhine. Not classed as a Rauenthal Gross Lage by the VDP, yet Breuer price it second only to Schlossberg in their portfolio of single vineyard Rieslings. This is mid-yellow in colour. Some development on the nose, but it has a slate-and-apple, custard, lychee freshness that really impresses. You’d almost expect it to be off-dry on the basis of the nose, but the palate is medium weight, dry but rich with apple, lychee, earth, sand flavours, and awesome construction, with an even presence right along the tongue and a long mouth-watering finish. Awesome stuff, but far from mature at the moment.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535176]2017 Tyrrell's Shiraz Vat 9[/url] - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
    {screwcap, 13.7%} [Aaron] This is unbelievable young still, with essence of blueberry fruit, and maybe some sulphur? I thought it a bit rubbery and reductive but I seemed isolated in that judgement. The palate is savoury and dry though, with a cranberry tinge to the flavour, and subtle smoky oak. Medium/high acid, medium chalky tannins, medium weight. But a long, savoury, balanced and even finish. Needs a decade probably at least. Served beside the Mount Pleasant; this tasted younger and fruiter, perhaps less complete just now, but with better potential for the future.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535179]2017 McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Wines Shiraz Mountain 'A'[/url] - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
    {screwcap, 14%} [Aaron] Purporting to be ‘medium-bodied’ expression of the ‘Mountain Series’. I’d call it medium/full, especially coming after the matching-vintage Tyrrells Vat 9. Black fruit aromas, malt, oak, and a hint of spice. Modern Hunter style. Juicily-fruited palate, with jubey black flavours, dry, with medium/high dusty tannins; stays just the right side of baked but lacks the fresh zip of the Tyrrells. Marginally better to drink now, but does sit more on the tip of the tongue and only finishes medium length. Probably at its best before its tenth year I’d reckon. This Mountain range was launched about ten years ago at around $75 a bottle, which I always thought was very ambitious pricing.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535181]2006 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline[/url] - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
    {cork, 13%} [DavidM] Opened & poured straight away. 71% cabernet, with Merlot, PV, Cab-F and Malbec adding 19/5/3/2% respectively. Developing nose of black fruit with a slightly herbal, but not too green aspect. The palate is initially austere, very cabernet-influenced, and becoming quite astringent with medium/high chalky tannins. Fruit-driven, not dominated by oak. I thought it a bit hollow, patchy somehow; a bit of a minority view. Given the following wine, maybe all it needed was decanting time? Medium weight; didn’t have the persistent finish I’d expect for the price. Keep longer or give it air.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535185]2001 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot[/url] - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
    {screwcap, 14%} [Graeme] Double-decanted off minimal sediment four earlier, and then had an hour in an open decanter before drinking. This seemed to make all the difference, because it smelt quite stinky on initial opening at 4pm. Served blind, and despite following its 2006 sibling, no-one identified it; they were that different (it’s not just poor tasters!). This is developing, black-aroma-ed, even hinting at jammy-rich, and with a minty/dark chocolate sort of character. A tiny bit of herb also shows up on the consistent palate. Ticks all the ‘medium’ boxes; dusty tannins seem as much grape skin as oak. Quite a long and even finish too. In the end, not bad at all, even if it is a bit anonymous – it seems that some decent air exposure is key to this showing well. More cellaring time is no issue – at least for screwcap-sealed bottles.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535189]1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz[/url] - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
    {cork, 13.5%} [Geoffrey] Open decanter for two hours before drinking. You wouldn’t keep current vintages of this label for twenty years but there was plenty of good shiraz fruit available from this vintage. That said, this is fully mature, with a leathery, old-red, softly spicy-smelling nose; but still very much alive. On the palate there are spicy aged red fruit, a little vanilla too. It’s not the last word in complexity but it’s well out-performed its price point all those years ago. Medium-sized wine all round, although the finish is shortening out a bit and the tannins are very soft too. Drink up & enjoy.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535190]2001 Yering Station Shiraz - Viognier[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    {cork, 13.9%} [Stephen] Very advanced. Dust and earth. Not still evidently fruity; possibly riding on the oak and whatever Australian viognier does to a shiraz. A hint of volatility on the leathery old palate, with a spike of spicy, faintly sharp flavour on the tip of the tongue then a quick slide into a short finish with only a hint of powdery tannin remaining. Still drinkable but well on the downslope.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535192]2001 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri[/url] - Australia, South Australia
    {magnum, cork, 14.5%} [DavidH] A spongy, crumbly cork saw this open-decanted about two hours before consumption. Pure black ink aromas. Not oak, and not too hot. The palate is voluptuous and a bit heady, semi-mature only, with medium dusty tannins and medium weight. Always warm on the palate; solid and generous in the meaty Penfolds style, although without overt oak; it’s not missed at all. This is very drinkable now although it will last an age longer thanks to fine balance and ripely-judged fruit. A good, even presence along the tongue gives a medium/long finish. Very good indeed.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535193]2004 Penfolds Bin 389[/url] - Australia, South Australia
    {cork, 14.5%} [Kim] As for the St Henri, another soft crumbly cork saw this open-decanted about two hours before consumption. I wasn’t convinced by this, finding the nose raw and chippy, like bottled particle-board, with a hint of volatility. Palate is more gluhwein-like, with baked fruit and a carpet-like flavour. There’s some jam character too, with lots of vanilla oak. Feels like a bit of a side-show alley wine after the St Henri. I suspect pH is too high, alcohol is too high… Dunno what’s happened to my relationship with Bin 389 over the last 20 years; it used to be the world’s most dependable wine; now it seems to have developed a bipolar disorder or something. Or is it me?
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535194]2016 Curtis Family Vineyards Shiraz Martins Vineyard[/url] - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    {screwcap, 14%} [Greg] Late starter here! Very heavily worked jammy and raw fruit, with sweet raspberry and coconut oak. Throwback to the Parker style. Iodine & blackberry essence on the palate, but also raw and red, like an abrasion from a bicycle fall. Full-bodied, with medium gritty tannins but low/medium acidity. Feels like its assembled-by-the-book a bit. Plenty of flavour, to be fair. Medium length finish. A drink-soon style of wine.
  • [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=9535196]1977 McWilliam's Centenary Vintage Port[/url] - Australia, South Australia
    {cork, 19%} [Gordon] Double-decanted four hours earlier off significant sediment. Smells like an antique shop, with old timber rafters, carpet, camphor, treacly sweetness. The palate is a fair stab at proper vintage port (even if the label said it’s made from cabernet sauvignon!), with fumey flavours, old barrels, caramel and dust. I suppose it’s medium-dry for sweetness but the finish is dryly refreshing. Long, lingering finish that avoids too much heat. Pretty damn good for 40+ years.
There was no vote for a WotN – I suspect the votes would have been all over the shop. It was a grand finish to a shit year, thanks to four dinners COVID-ruined. Fingers crossed for 2022.

kenzo
Posts: 273
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 1:32 pm

Re: TN: Last dinner of 2021

Post by kenzo »

GraemeG wrote:...raw and red, like an abrasion from a bicycle fall...
Love it! (the descriptor, not those abrasions)

Had that McWilliams Centenary from a 375ml bottle a few years back and thought it superb - been on the lookout for more ever since.

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phillisc
Posts: 3358
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 2:24 pm
Location: Adelaide

Re: TN: Last dinner of 2021

Post by phillisc »

Not surprised at all about the 98 Wynns, the wines from the 90s were given the love and there wasn't a million wines in the brand.
Thanks for the note Graeme, have probably a dozen of these. The 90s Wynns Shiraz's remind me of 90s Koonunga Hill's, plush fruit driven and made to last.
Covid got in the way this year, but will be doing a 90/91 horizontal sometime soon.

Cheers Craig
Tomorrow will be a good day

Mahmoud Ali
Posts: 2954
Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:00 pm
Location: Edmonton, Canada

Re: TN: Last dinner of 2021

Post by Mahmoud Ali »

Thanks for the notes Graeme, they are of significant interest to me as I have some these wines in the cellar, two of which are of the same vintage.


I'm not at all surprised by the youth of the Vat 9 Shiraz. Earlier this year I opened a bottle of the winery's cellar door only Vat 11 'Baulkam' Shiraz from the 2000 vintage and it was a really lovely, aged hunter and ready to drink. I also have the 2000 Vat 9 so I expect that it will still have some legs but perhaps not too far behind. I'm not sure what the 2017 vintage was like in the Hunter but it should have two decades of life ahead of it.


Your note on the 2001 Yering Station Shiraz-Viognier tells me that I might have to think about broaching the 2006 sometime soon. I also have a bottle of the 2005 Reserve but I'll wait a bit longer on that one.


The St Henri at 20 years of age sounds like it is coming along just fine. I have a bottle of the 1995 and though it is older it probably has more structure as there is Cabernet in the blend as it is labeled Shiraz-Cabernet.


The 2004 Bin 389 truly sounds awful and not at all what I would have expected given the reviews I saw at the time. The way it seems now I probably have to forget about it and hope for a miracle. Both it and the 2005 are likely to be the last vintage I will buy because whereas it cost me C$25 back then it now retails at four times the price.


I really never thought I would ever see a note on the 1977 McWilliams Centenary Vintage Port . I have a half bottle that I picked up at cellar door some twenty years ago . I don't recall it being made from Cabernet but then again I haven't read the back label in years.


Cheers ............................................... Mahmoud.

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