Special mentions to the 2012 Castello Banfi Brunello which I bought about 3 years ago and which was looking in great shape, and also to the 1995 Condado de Haza RdD Crianza, a recent auction buy, which by all rights should be long in the tooth but was simply marvelous. Not to neglect the 1998 Rockford Cabernet which my friend had acquired for last Xmas (which unfortunately got cancelled), which was a lovely mature Aussie red.
- 2011 Bodega Vinificate Mahara - Spain, Andalucía, Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz (8/27/2021)
No formal notes. Bright and spicy nose. Very spicy in fact. Quite fresh given the age. Brambly fruit, undergrowth, and vanilla alongside more deep plum style character. The tannins provide a surprising bit of grip. Auction purchase, second bottle. Drinking well now, I am not sure if the spice notes will relax but I don’t see it falling over in the next year or too at least. (90 pts.) - 2012 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (8/26/2021)
Ruby red with a hint of brown. First impression is this is a bit more aged than expected but not in any way falling over. With air there are notes of sour cherry, just a touch of herbal or sous bois, Ferragamo leather, and a certain spicy element. Breathing definitely freshens the wine up. On the palate the sour cherry fruit dominates alongside quite crunchy acidity and tannins that remain resolutely firm. With a decant this is approchable now but I suspect it will develop further complexity with another three to five years at least and live of course much longer. (93 pts.) - 1995 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Alenza Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (8/25/2021)
Recent auction purchase. The level was just towards the bottom of the neck and the cork came out in pieces but otherwise this looked well cared for. The color is still deep ruby with some brown hints. And then the nose; the nose is frankly glorious. Fading plum, old varnish, grandmas liquor cabinet. It’s trending tertiary but actually the purity of fruit remains quite good, with hints of darker cherry liqueur poking out. In the mouth the fruit is a little dried out but you can still appreciate the original Tempranillo character plus pleasant tertiary development which leaves a mellow, and very drinkable red wine. For the age and price, it’s remarkable. This wine represents exactly what cellaring wines for pleasure not fiscal returns is about. (94 pts.) - 2018 Calabretta Minnella Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (8/25/2021)
This wine is apparently a straight Cortese but I cannot confirm too much information about it, the wineries English translation having this to say: "Minnella Bianca: the simplicity is her strength… the name is from the shape of the grape (minna = tit) characteristic flavor wit , sulphureous perfume. Light body & minerality." Well, OK then. (the Italian doesn't add anything much more)
Quite pale green/yellow in the glass. Slightly tart nose of green apple and fresh citrus, with just a slight hint of fresh herbs. The tartness definitely carries through on the palate which has mouth puckering acidity. Fresh and clean but a little one dimensional. Probably better with the right food match (I am thinking crispy squid, or lightly fried white fish). Could this develop? The acidity is certainly there, but this variety and region isn't my expertise so I defer offering an opinion. (87 pts.) - 2014 Sarget de Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (8/23/2021)
Deep red. A little reticent at first but then it opens up nicely with aromas of red currants, darker black currant, and some purple floral hints. The palate is quite juicy with air, with oak playing only a supporting role and the tannins coming in modestly firm and gritty. The acid pokes out a bit, perhaps better in another year or two? On this form a shade over priced, but pretty decent. (89 pts.) - 2012 Château Gravier Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion (8/22/2021)
Clear mid red. Lovely soft, plummy fruit on the nose with just a pleasant touch of more earthy or herbal development. Soft and juicy on the palate but actually there is quite a bit of structure there as well, with the tannins still providing some grip. Excellent drinking now although I expect it will hold for 3-5 years at least. For c€17 in a Bordeaux supermarket I think that’s pretty good value. (91 pts.) - 2015 La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (8/22/2021)
Deep red. Cool red fruits and gentle herbaceous elements on the nose. Quite persistent and dense on the palate with relatively grippy tannins. Overall, a lovely Bdx that is drinking well but I suspect can improve over at least another couple of years. (91 pts.) - 2012 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri (8/21/2021)
Mid red. Maturing and Bordeaux like nose, with hints of cassis, plum, cedar and just a touch of green herbs. Quite elegant really which carries through on the palate. The tannins, while still firm, have relaxed a bit of that typical Bolgheri grip which can detract when the wines are younger. For my taste this is now ready to go, although I expect it will hold fine in the cellar for at least another five years. 92-93pts. (92 pts.) - 2019 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Morgon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (8/21/2021)
Limpid mid red. Bright, attractively sour, red fruits. Cherries and raspberries. Very expressive and pure. On the palate there is red and more purple fruit and quite brisk acidity. Excellent with a meal in the lyonnaise style. A new producer for me but one I will now seek out. (91 pts.) - 2018 Falkenstein Riesling - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Val Venosta (8/20/2021)
Mid yellow. On the nose there is classic dry Riesling aromas- cut citrus, lime cordial, and just a whiff of petrol. The palate presents as bone dry with bracing acidity. Apparently this sees seven months in acacia wood barrels but if so that hasn’t added a lot to the wine except maybe the colour. This would be an excellent ring in at a tasting of dry Australian rieslings. I expect this can cellar nicely for at least the mid term 3-5 years. 91-92pts. (91 pts.) - 2015 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Guardiola - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (8/17/2021)
Ruby red. Elegant but slightly rich on the nose. Bright cherry, liqueur red fruits, and sous bois. Gathers real richness on the palate with air, and finishes with surprisingly grippy tannins. Maybe a touch rich / ripe? Still a lovely wine with time to burn in the cellar. (92 pts.) - 2012 Podere Sapaio Sapaio - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri (8/14/2021)
Very dark red still. Especially at first this remains quite monolithic and unrevealing on the nose. With more air deep blackcurrant aromas emerge, along with some mulberry and cedar like oak notes. In the mouth initially plush fruit gives way to tannins that remain firmly mouth coating. Tremendous wine with wonderful energy to burn. I suspect in 15 years this will astound but I wonder how many people have the time to wait for that. (93 pts.) - 1998 Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (8/14/2021)
Brown tinged but still deep garnet at the core. Gentle blackberry fruit with earthy development and that warm taste of the Barossa. Speaks more of the region and the producer than the variety or even really the bottle age. A lovely aged wine, especially if you are a Rockford fan. Not falling over at all but I would be tempted to drink sooner than later. (92 pts.) - NV Equipo Navazos Manzanilla en Rama I Think - Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (8/14/2021)
Saca en Rama April 2018. Yellow tinged with darker hints. Classic manzanilla nose with plenty of nutty interest. Brisk acidity and a nice saline element on the palate. Just a lovely aperitif. (90 pts.) - 2015 Estate Papaioannou Chardonnay Fume Papaioannou - Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea (8/14/2021)
The colour remains quite good, light yellow with some green. On the nose this is a bit bizarre. Smoky, slightly oxidative, with exotic, slightly tart fruit and some nutty elements. The palate carries this through. Unusual and some people, especially fans of natural wines, might enjoy this but I can’t say it’s for me. Probably better value in Greece than the £18 it costs in a Wimbledon bottle shop. (86 pts.) - 2008 Gapsted Saperavi Limited Release Alpine Valleys - Australia, Victoria, North East, Alpine Valleys (8/13/2021)
Still quite deep red, this is a real surprise package. Deep plum aromas appear and freshen up with air as well as more developed earthy notes. There is some fading blackcurrant and liqueur notes as well. Sweet fruit characters dominate in the mouth but despite the fact this must have been monumental to begin with it’s not over sweet or porty. The only other Saperavi I’ve had from Oz is from Hugh Hamilton but it’s a variety I have enjoyed from Georgia and this is genuinely enjoyable. (92 pts.) - 2012 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (8/11/2021)
Classic Ardanza, with a pleasant level of freshness and a touch less of the varnish oak that for me sometimes detracts with this marque. Opened up and improved even open for several days. (91 pts.) - 2019 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (8/11/2021)
Glowing yellow/green in the glass. Very fresh on the nose, with notes of citrus, grapefruit, white flowers, and a certain minerality. All of this carries through to the palate, which finishes dry and crisp. Really pleasant wine, excellent as an aperitif or with something like fried seafood. (90 pts.) - 2020 Bodega Matsu Tinta de Toro El Picaro - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (8/10/2021)
No formal notes, but this was typically pleasant as normal for this entry level label. Good value for easy drinking. - 2018 Marcel Deiss Alsace Complantation - France, Alsace (8/6/2021)
I think this is my fourth bottle from a six pack. This is a blend of all 13 allowed Alsace varieties. In the glass this has a full yellow colour. The nose is quietly exotic with notes of lychee, apricot, and citrus. The palate opens with fairly broad, sweet yellow fruit. Quite juicy even. It is not over sweet and the acid just about stays in balance. Pretty decent although pushing €15-16 the value is perhaps a little questionable, albeit you do also get the genuinely lovely label design. (87 pts.) - NV Yann Alexandre Champagne Brut Noir - France, Champagne (8/6/2021)
Mid yellow color, with a firm, persistent bead. Muscular but fresh on the nose, which carries through on the palate. Nice balance. Excellent value. - 2017 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (8/3/2021)
Straight Marsanne from three vineyards (Méal, Muret and Chante-Alouette). Maturation is a mix of 30-40% stainless steel and the rest generally 2nd or 3rd use larger oak (600L). This is the first of a recently acquired three pack. Full yellow in the glass, this has an obviously complex nose. Stonefruit, Marsanne honeysuckle, and citrus notes, but also some oily/lanolin character and something else, almost green or faintly vegetal that feels slightly out of place. On the palate this is pleasantly rich and almost honeyed, balanced with good acidity, and it has a fairly long, lingering finish, but overall I do wonder if this is in a slightly closed phase right now? 92+ (92 pts.) - 2018 Quinta Vale D. Maria Douro Vinhas do Sabor - Portugal, Douro (7/25/2021)
This is an assembly of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alicante Bouschet and Baga, which is hand picked and aged in second and third use French barriques. Deep, purple red. Spicy red/purple berry notes dominate on the nose. Quite plush smelling, with a touch of vanilla and lifted alcohol as well (although its only 14% abv). On the palate this has a mix of sweet purple fruit, fresh acidity, and quite gentle, even tannins. Very pleasant and pretty good value. (90 pts.) - 2017 Domaine de Bonserine Côte-Rôtie La Sarrasine - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (7/24/2021)
Deep ruby red, still slightly purple flecked. Appealing mix of dark, almost savoury plum and more floral elements on the nose. Medium bodied with good acidity on the palate. Finishes long with even, furry tannins. Delicious and balanced CR that I expect would evolve nicely for at least a decade. (93 pts.) - 2017 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7/22/2021)
Bright dark ruby red. Quite a dense, muscular nose. Dark plum, dense red fruit, a touch of vanilla, and an almost iron like note. Not too much floral tone or confection going on. So Grenache dominant, but the firmer expression of it. On the palate there is dark fruits and quite firm tannins. Just a hint of undergrowth as well. At around low to mid €30, this is pretty decent. I expect better in 2-3 years and should drink well for at least a decade. (92 pts.) - 2018 Domaine Belle Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Carmin - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (7/20/2021)
Deep purple red. Vibrant nose of lifted blue and purple fruit with notes of violet, spice and some juicy confection. Soft and sweet but balanced on the palate, with good acidity to keep things fresh. Immensely drinkable, this is superb value for <€14 at Monoprix. 89-90pts. (89 pts.) - 2020 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde (7/19/2021)
No formal notes. Crisp and clean. Nice grapefruit and citrus flavors. The taster below summarizes it pretty well. (87 pts.) - 2019 Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Cave Vinum - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (7/14/2021)
Actually a Vin de France, not a Cotes du Rhone. 40% Viognier, 40% Roussanne and 20% Clairette. No formal notes. I am a big fan of white Rhone blends, and this isn't too bad but it perhaps lacks a bit of definition or purity to the nose, and has a touch of broadness to the palate which makes me feel that for c€18 the value here is a bit questionable. (87 pts.) - 2018 Espaço Rural Bojador Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano (7/12/2021)
Alicante Bouschet 60%, Touriga Nacional 30% and 10% Aragonez. Appealing deep fruited plum and blackberry characters, with a touch of minerality. Rich not not over heavy. Enjoyable if you like a sweeter fruited style of wine. (88 pts.) - 2018 Herdade do Rocim Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo (7/12/2021)
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez which is aged in new French oak. This is very dense and ripe on the nose, with dark fruit flavours. The alcohol comes across as quite heavy for 14% abv. Altogether lacks a bit of freshness and comes across a touch heavy, but its pleasant enough if you enjoy that style (think warm climate red from the new world). (87 pts.) - 2020 Gérard Bertrand Muscat Sec Naturae - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc (7/11/2021)
Grapey and floral on the nose, this is a pretty pleasant little white and under €8 it’s quite decent value. Probably won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but would be an excellent match to spicy food. - 2019 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Fermentado en Barrica - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (7/10/2021)
Pale yellow/green. The influence of the oak is immediate on the nose, which has a pleasant, creamy complexity, with ripe stone fruit characters. On the palate there is just a touch of coarseness which detracts, but overall this is pretty enjoyable if you don't mind quite overt oak on your white Rioja. 88-89pts. (88 pts.) - 2019 Bodegas Ateca Garnacha Calatayud Honoro Vera - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud (7/9/2021)
Extremely drinkable Garnacha, with soft fleshy red fruits but also well judged acidity that keeps the whole package moreish and never too sweet despite the predictable 14.5pc alcohol. Good value. (87 pts.) - 2017 Anselmo Mendes Beira Interior - Portugal, Beiras, Beira Interior (7/8/2021)
Beira Int is a region with a "harsh climate" and this is made from old vine Síria and Fonte Cal, local varieties. The wine sees nine months in 400L French oak on its lees and then a further 24 months ageing before release- with the 2017 being the current vintage (June 2021).
Crisp citrus combines with ripe stone fruit that emerges with air. The palate starts quite sharp and a bit out of balance but also gathers richness after being open a bit longer. Nice palate weight. Apricot and stone fruit flavours combine with quite firm acid on the close. Doesn't reach the heights of some of Anselmo Mendes' other wines, but for <€15 the value is pretty good. (89 pts.) - 2017 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Cune Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (7/2/2021)
No formal notes, but this is a typically solid, very pleasant entry Rioja. Good value. (87 pts.) - 2019 Quinta de Ventozelo Douro Tinto Reserva - Portugal, Douro (7/2/2021)
A mix of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Alicante Bouchet, which sees 12 months in French oak. Clear ruby red, on the nose this is quite inviting with juicy, floral red berries and wood spice. Crunchy red fruits and brisk acidity on the palate. Carries the 14pc abv without seeming heavy at all, and finishes with relatively gentLe tannins. Lacks the depth to score higher but this is a pleasant and food friendly wine. (87 pts.) - 2020 Anselmo Mendes Loureiro Vinho Verde Muros Antigos Escolha - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde (7/2/2021)
Luminous pale green/yellow. Exceptionally fresh and zesty on the nose, with fresh lemon, sherbet, talc and some floral hints. Bracing acidity on the palate, finishing clean and puckering. Lovely summer time drinking, and exceptional value under €7. (87 pts.) - 2019 Azores Wine Company Branco Vulcânico - Portugal, Açores, Vinho Regional Açores (7/1/2021)
Pale yellow, green. Citrus, mineral tones, and crisp acidity. Intriguing and fresh. Pretty decent, although at €15 or more the value can perhaps be questioned. (87 pts.)