Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) – 2012 Cabernets

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

Our monthly tasting group decided to go for a horizontal tasting this time, Cabernets from the 2012 vintage. It wasn’t restricted to straight Cabernet Sauvignons, but could be a blend, provided it was CS dominant. In the end, all this made little difference, as only one of the group brought a blend.

I am reliably informed that show judging one year old cabernets is the toughest of the tasting gigs. Personally, I tend to not open Australian cabernets before 5 or more years of age anyway, so just as well that we went for 2012 vintage.

And the wines were ….. all 2012’s:

Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River): The ‘black label’ not the Stevens Road or Reserve. I have found this is a reliable wine over many vintages, and still under $40. Purple / crimson in colour. The nose is dusty, with blackcurrant, bay leaf, cassis, tobacco, graphite, and a hint of mint. The palate has more blackcurrant, prominent acid and supporting tannins. There was discussion about whether the fruit was insufficient for the tannins and acid, while some tasters reckon this is too young, and needs food.

Wills Domain (Margaret River): Purple / crimson in colour. Modest, almost shy nose (at least by comparison) and vegetal, somewhat smoky and some leather. The palate shows more of the leather, and some red fruits. Tannins and acid are both moderate (again by comparison) and the palate is soft and textured. There was discussion as to whether this was developed (or going downhill).

Whicher Ridge (Geographe): Deep purple in colour. Lots of dark berries, vanilla, tobacco, coffee / mocha, in a rich combination. The palate follows through from the nose, along with red and dark fruits, good supporting acid, and integrated but grippy tannins. Excellent balance and length, and highly regarded by the group.

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Wirra Wirra “The Angelus” (McLaren Vale): Deep purple in colour. A big wine – lots of choc / mocha on the expressive nose, along with coffee grounds, dark fruits and eucalypt. On the palate, acid is prominent, tannins are dusty, and there’s lots of black fruit, without being jammy. It’s medium to full bodied and good length. There was debate as to whether it was mature, or too young.

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot (Margaret River): The only blend of the tasting. Deep purple in colour. The nose is lively, with red fruits, vanilla and pencil shavings. The palate is also bright with red fruits, and appeared on first tasting to be quite light-bodied. Good tannins and acid, but for me, finished a little short. The phrase “refined texture” was used. Well regarded by the group, while personally I would leave it a little longer.

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Rockford Rifle Range (Barossa): Crimson in colour. Earthy nose, and described by others as porty. Dark fruits, dark chocolate, and a ferrous character on the nose. Soft acid, integrated and moderate tannins, with rich black fruits and some soy / umami. A big wine all round.

D’Arenberg Coppermine Road (McLaren Vale): Purple / red in colour. There’s spices, red and dark fruits (especially blackberries), bacon fat, and graphite / asphalt on the nose. Tannins are grippy and acid is high. There’s still lots of primary fruit evident on the palate, and the wine has good body and great length. Highly regarded by the group.

A small but interesting tasting, and mostly very good wines that I would be happy to open on their own with dinner. Wine of the night (by a considerable margin) was the 2012 D’Arenberg Coppermine Road.

These horizontal tastings are a good option provided you don’t narrow the parameters too much. It’s possible we will do 2012 Shiraz in June – but that is still being voted on.

Cheers
Allan

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[sjw_11]

Nice tasting Allan, thanks for the notes ... I think I have 3 of the Rifle Range in the cellar- any specific thoughts on further cellaring potential?

[Waiters Friend]

Nice tasting Allan, thanks for the notes ... I think I have 3 of the Rifle Range in the cellar- any specific thoughts on further cellaring potential?

A tough call, and one that other posters may wish to comment on. I think it will hold for a few years,although tannins are integrating now, but may not improve significantly - just develop further. As always, it depends on how developed you like your wine.

Sorry that this wasn't a confident "yep, 3-5"

[Mahmoud Ali]

Nice tasting Allan, thanks for the notes ... I think I have 3 of the Rifle Range in the cellar- any specific thoughts on further cellaring potential?

Hi Sam,

It's a Cabernet, and not yet a decade old. If you like mature wines it should last for years. Also, considering it is made by Rockford, it should last well into a second decade if not more. I've had a bottle of Moppa Springs, a GSM blend, at 18 years of age and it was excellent so I see no reason why a straight cab should not go the same distance if not much more.

[Rossco]

I see no reason why a straight cab should not go the same distance if not much more.

All my 2012's Rockfords are cork..... so there is that rather large variable

[sjw_11]

Nice tasting Allan, thanks for the notes ... I think I have 3 of the Rifle Range in the cellar- any specific thoughts on further cellaring potential?

Hi Sam,

It's a Cabernet, and not yet a decade old. If you like mature wines it should last for years. Also, considering it is made by Rockford, it should last well into a second decade if not more. I've had a bottle of Moppa Springs, a GSM blend, at 18 years of age and it was excellent so I see no reason why a straight cab should not go the same distance if not much more.

Point taken Mahmoud but I have never been fully convinced of the Barossa as a Cabernet region especially for the typical long-term cellaring you would expect of the variety. Rockford (like all their wines) makes a more old fashioned example (i.e. rather than high octane high alcohol) but it still to me speaks more of the Rockford house style than it does of the Cabernet grape (others may disagree).

And as Rossco says... those pesky corks. Plus at AU$45+ its always been one with slightly poor QPR in recent years... hence altogether why I thought I would ask!

I doubt Oz will let me back in until late 2022 so I won't be opening one anytime soon either way