Steven Spurrier, the Judgement of Paris, and an Old Napa Cabernet

[Mahmoud Ali]

Three of us got together two weekends to celebrate a belated birthday. Thinking of the recent passing of Steven Spurrier, and his legacy of introducing the world to the marvels of California wines in The Judgement of Paris I decided to open one of my oldest Napa Valley Cabernet, and in honour of the birthday girl I opened one of my oldest Semillons from her native land, a 1991 Rosemount.

Spring Mountain 1978.jpg

Spurrier would be pleased to know that it was guessed for being a Bordeaux and indeed the nose was a look-alike. Surprisingly, the cork on this 1978 Spring Mountain Cabernet, Napa Valley (13%) was only three-quarter soaked and it still had a noticeable tannins, suggesting it might still have some legs. One more bottle so I will wait to see how it fares with another few years. A fine outcome for a C$13.50 wine that apparently is available in Hong Kong for £275. A piece of trivia, the house and surrounding was featured in the opening scenes of a TV drama called Falcon Crest back in the 80s.

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Rosemount Semillon Back.jpg

This 1991 Rosemount Estate Semillon, Wood Matured, South Eastern Australia (12%), on the initial pour, without food, seemed flaccid and lifeless so we put it aside and tackled another white. After a while we went back to sample it and it was considerably better, it seemed to have come back to life and the roast duck complemented it. There were a nice feel to the wine, almost neutral but in a very pleasant sort of way, with an oiliness and nuttiness that was rather pleasant. I had hoped for a honeyed, rich wine but, who knows, perhaps its yet to come, but not something I will find out about as it was a one off purchase many years ago.

I seem to be able to load only 3 pictures so the rest of what we drank follows

[Mahmoud Ali]

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The 2010 Catena Alta Chardonnay, Argentina (14%) was, believe it or not, darker than the Rosemount despite it being almost 20 years younger. I felt it was too tired, apart from it being a bit bloated and rich, the advanced state making it too honeyed in an unfavourable way. It was a back vintage purchase so it is possible that time on the retail shelf may have had an impact. I much preferred the Rosemount.

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The 2006 Two Hands Coach House Shiraz, Barossa Valley (16.4%) - and that's no typo - was enormous, and followed the '78 Spring Mountain and complemented by roast lamb. The alcohol did not show, it was a tight and focused, with minerality and depth that made me think old world, and definitely not Australian Shiraz. Imagine my surprise when it was revealed to be a 16.4% Aussie Shiraz. This was indeed a very nice wine and one that would last for another 15-20 years.

[Mahmoud Ali]

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Messias 1980.jpg

We started and ended the evening with these two, a N/V Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve (12%) and a 1980 Messias Colheita (20%). The Champagne was wonderful, full of vibrant bubbles and mousse, with a hint of age in the nose and palate. Like many bottles in our market there was no disgorgement date so we had no idea of it's age, a recent find by my friend, and on clearance, so likely with some time on the shelf. The Messias was what you would expect from a 40 year-old colheita, 38 when bottled and 2 years in bottle. Pale in colour, ecru with a tinge of orange (is that a colour?), it was delicate and nutty, mildly sweet with mandarin notes, and a delicate rancio finish. Fine and lovely.

California Cabernets can indeed hold their own. RIP Steven Spurrier, you will not be forgotten.

Cheers ............................. Mahmoud.

[GraemeG]

Well, putting Hunter semillon in oak never did auger very well for the long term.

[TiggerK]

Nice post Mahmoud, I love old Cabernet wines, and Napa can seriously deliver. 1978 was a good vintage for them too, pleased the cork held up and delivered. Not too surprised on the Rosemount though... but worth a try!

[Ian S]

It certainly beat the 1975 Spring Mountain bottle I had. A leaky cork in 2011 forced me to open it, but no rush needed as TCA had long since stripped it bare.

[Mahmoud Ali]

I may have done the Rosemount a bit of a disservice with my description. It improved with airing and warming - it came straight from the fridge and was perhaps too cold - and was quite nice with food. Now that I think about it, I'm reminded of the first ever Hunter Semillon I ever tried, a 1986 Mount Pleasant Lovedale. It was 1995 and I was in Perth, and I came across this gold sticker-studded bottle, likely a museum release, already nine years old. I had a bottle of 1972 Henschke Cabernet Franc from cellar door so I thought it might be an appropriate companion at a restaurant. I wouldn't say I was disappointed with it so much as struggling to understand what to make of this Semillon that was neither fruity nor freshly acidic, without any one thing standing out, but with a round, oily, mouthfeel. I can honestly say that I wouldn't be unhappy if I had another bottle in the cellar. Of course I'd be happier if I had a 1986 Lovedale.

I must say I was somewhat perplexed with the Rosemount, the front label says South Eastern Australia but the back label refers to Hunter Valley Semillon's style. Either they are piggybacking on the Hunter reputation or it is a blend. Note that the wine is 12% which is on the high side for a Hunter Semillon.

Mahmoud.

[Mahmoud Ali]

It certainly beat the 1975 Spring Mountain bottle I had. A leaky cork in 2011 forced me to open it, but no rush needed as TCA had long since stripped it bare.

The cork on the 1978 was in good shape, and judging by the stain it would last a good deal longer.

Spring Mountain Cork.jpg

[sjw_11]

"South-Eastern Australia" aka a blend of potentially everywhere (or any one place within this large area)...

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