Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay Vertical Tasting 2019-2010

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G’day

Following on from August’s Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot vertical http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?f ... ab#p162720, this was always going to be the logical follow-up.The Ashbrook team has long ago determined how best to produce their Chardonnay, and this tasting therefore highlighted vintage variation rather than significant changes in wine making. From their website:

“This wine is 50% fermented and stored in new French barriques for 7-8 months. There is no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation, thus highlighting Margaret River’s attractive and intense primary fruit flavours and aromas which combine seamlessly with a backbone of quality oak.”

Alcohol levels are also reasonably consistent, around the 13.5% mark, with only three vintages at 14% or above. Harvest has been mid-February to early March, again with some years later than others.

As usual, the tasting notes below are a composite of the group’s comments, and not just my own. All wines are from my cellar with the exception of the 2019 which was graciously provided by Cath at Ashbrook (and has just recently been released for sale).

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2019: Straw in colour. There was a touch of banana lollies on initial pour, but this disappeared as the wine warmed up. There’s the trademark nutty oak, with rockmelon, yellow peaches, nectarines, lemon pith and white flowers on the nose, along with some vanilla. One taster got gooseberries as well. The palate has the expected peach and vanilla, along with a touch of lime cordial and pineapple. The acid is probably still settling down a little (slightly tart at this stage) and a medium finish. The wine was described as refreshing, and opened up really well. The group considered this will age well.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2018: Pale yellow in colour. Cedar and roasted cashew nuts on the nose, along with stone fruits (especially nectarines), cereal grains and almond meal. The palate includes a citrus element (lemon, grapefruit) among the stone fruits. There’s also some orange rind or pith and a slight herbaceousness. This is a bit richer and fuller than the 2019 and lingers a little longer on the finish.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2017: From a cooler year. Pale yellow. There’s cedar and stone fruits as expected on the nose, but also some “struck match” and lemon pith. The nose was more expressive than for the previous two wines. The palate has some tangy grapefruit among the stone fruits, and the wine is slightly drying, with a very full mouthfeel. The group considered the wine to be balanced and well rounded with no edges, and was highly regarded.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2016: Pale yellow. The oak was slightly lighter on the nose than previous wines, and there was lots of soft white peaches, some lime pie (including the pastry element) and grapefruit. The palate was more intense – citrus (especially grapefruit), stone fruits (yellow peach particularly) – well supported by freshening acid. This shows more structure than the 2017, and may well live longer, but for now it was described as honeyed and seductive. Excellent wine.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2015: Medium yellow in colour – in fact, the first wine to show much colour development at all. Rich, intense nose with cedar, ripe nectarines, honeydew melon and zippy grapefruit on the nose. Some tasters got a slight spritz on pour The palate opens with a slight honey or caramel flavour, and the fruits are heading into the ‘baked in a pie’ spectrum, more developed and in some ways more complex. There’s a great texture to this wine, however, some tasters felt that the oak lasted longer on the finish than the fruit. A minor quibble, but possibly a sign that this wine will develop more quickly than other vintages.

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Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2014: Medium yellow, similar to the 2015. Closed initially on the nose, it opened up to show melons, cashews, slightly baked stone fruits and a touch of allspice. The palate has tart acid, with ripe peach, grapefruit and citrus. It’s oak-dominant, and this, like the 2015, was a wine that the group considered was developing quickly.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2013: Medium yellow again – it was hard to tell the last three vintages apart by colour. This time, the nose shows raw cashews, developed stone fruits, honey, lemon, hibiscus and dough. The creamed honey persists on the palate, along with nougat, pressed mango, and peach. There’s a mix of primary and secondary fruit flavours here. Good supporting acid, and some tasters commented on the overall balance. Well regarded by the group.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2012: Medium yellow, slightly darker (just) than the 2013. The nose is ripe and exuberant, jumping out of the glass. There’s lightly roasted nuts, developed peach and nectarine, tropical fruit juice and green plum. One taster thought there was a sweaty note as well. The palate has a talc texture, alongside lime cordial. In fact, this was quite a divisive wine, with some tasters describing it as “Riesling-esque” and others considered it round and big. Certainly the citrus elements stood out on the palate.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2011: Full yellow in colour. This was the highest alcohol wine of the night. Lots of stone fruits here, peach, nectarine and also some mandarin on the nose, alongside oyster shell, brine and honeydew melon. The palate is honeyed (but not overly so) with orange marmalade and grapefruit skin. Tart acid keeps the wine fresh, and it had the longest finish of the night by a considerable margin. Many tasters considered it youthful, and all considered it balanced. Highly regarded.

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2010: Yellow with a tinge of gold. The nose was similar to the 2012 with sherbet, tropical fruits and the expected stone fruits. The palate also reflected the 2012’s lime cordial (specifically Pickfords brand this time), more tropical fruits, including grilled pineapple. The mouthfeel was less intense than the 2012 and it’s possibly a little past its peak.

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The vexed question of best drinking windows always comes up in these verticals, and opinions ranged between 3 and 6 years (with the superb 2011 being an anomaly). Wine of the night fell squarely within this range, being the 2016 Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay. I’m glad I still have a few bottles.

There’s definitely a house style here, and it’s a good one. 2012 and 2010 turned out to be outside the norm, but only after years of development – certainly when I first bought them they fitted what I had come to expect from the young wines.

Many thanks to Cath and the team at Ashbrook Estate, for technical notes as well as the 2019 vintage for this tasting (yes, you’ll have my order soon), and to those who were there on the night and contributed to these notes.

Cheers
Allan

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