TN: Faber Vineyard Millard Shiraz 2017

[Waiters Friend]

This Swan Valley producer has been operating since the late 1990s, after John Griffith left his position as Houghton's chief winemaker. It was a good move at the time, and an even better move now that Houghton has removed itself from the Swan Valley.

John makes three Shiraz wines each year, the RIche, the Reserve, and this one. The Millard is the middle tier of Faber Shiraz, and is a single vineyard wine, made from the block next door to Faber's own. The wine is unfined and unfiltered.

2017 was a disastrous vintage for some Swan Valley producers, some of whom were flooded out completely when 114mm of rain swelled the Swan River to bursting its banks in early February. One vineyard was so far under water that kayakers paddled over the top of the river flat shiraz vines, without risk of snagging on a strainer post. Some that did make shiraz in 2017 found that the extra water resulted in a less powerful wine.

Faber is further away from the river, and didn't suffer the same level of flooding, and this wine is definitely not diluted. Intense nose with ripe plums, dark berries, cloves, cocoa and maybe some cinnamon. There's also a hint of alcohol heat (possibly reflecting the 14% alcohol).

The palate is full and powerful, with the rich plummy fruit combining with milk chocolate across the tongue. Tannins are firm but not clunky, and there's plenty of supporting acid. The wine finishes long and satisfying, and will age well for years.

This, and similar Swan Valley wines, might be considered the WA equivalent of Barossa shiraz. It's generous and full flavoured, and that's not a bad thing sometimes.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

Time to take another look at this wine, 4 years further on.

The colour has lightened very slightly, and is now a deep purple. The dark plums and berries are still present, but have developed and not as forward. The spices and cocoa also remain along with some more savoury notes. There's hints ofraisin and brandy as well.

The palate remains full and powerful, and again shows further developoment. Fruit is not as up front as previously (although there's plenty of it on the finish), and there's dark chocolate and red berries alongside the darker fruits. Tannins are integrating but still grippy, and there's plenty of acid to keep the wine fresh. Long finish.

This remains generous Swan Valley shiraz, showing signs of development, and therefore not as primary as it was. That's not a bad thing however.

Cheers
Allan

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