Living In A Wine Town

[JamieBahrain]

From the Weekend Australian Magazine


CLARE, SA

Population 3200 (Clare & Gilbert Valleys LGA 9000)

Median house price $265,000 (LGA)

Average income $58,000 (LGA)

Years to pay off a house 16

For wine writer Nick Ryan, the pleasures of living in South Aust­ralia’s Clare Valley can be simply explained. “Where else in Australia can you go to your local burger joint and get a seriously good cheeseburger for $16 and a bottle of Wendouree shiraz for $150?”

The colony of South Australia was just three years old when the first European settlers arrived in the Clare Valley in 1839. Many came from ­Germany and Poland, bringing with them the wine­making traditions that have made Clare the special place it is today. But a bit like the cult ­Wendouree winery – which has no website, no cellar door, and whose secret coterie of customers must order their wine by writing formal letters – Clare remains something of a national secret, enjoying none of the fame of the Barossa or Coonawarra.

The Clare Valley is a network of townships about 100km north of Adelaide. Clare is the biggest, with a population of just over 3000, the remainder tiny townships such as Auburn, Sevenhill and Mintaro, home to the majestic Martindale Hall country estate, which served as the boarding house in Peter Weir’s Picnic at Hanging Rock. The region is most famous for its riesling and can be best enjoyed by cycling the Riesling Trail, a breathtaking 25km bike track that weaves through the vineyards of wineries such as Jim Barry, Grosset, Knappstein, Pikes and Skillogalee.

Ryan, his wife Belinda and their three children live in a farmhouse on a sprawling 8ha in the east of the valley, a total reversal of pace from the 17 years he spent working as a journalist in Sydney, where he lived in Bellevue Hill. “I had to go to the airport here the other day and it took me an hour and 40 minutes,” he says. “In Sydney you can get stuck on New South Head Road and it can take you that long to get to William Street.”

Aside from the obvious attraction of living in such a famous wine region where he is mates with many industry figures, Ryan cites the easy lifestyle, the proximity to Adelaide and the strong sense of community as Clare’s biggest drawcards. He is all rigged up with reliable broadband and he and Belinda are thrilled with their eldest daughter’s primary school, and can’t imagine ever living in a big city again. “I used to rent an office space in Adelaide from time to time but I don’t even bother with that anymore,” he says.

“So many people are realising now that you don’t need to be in a certain place to get things done. There are different ways of living and working. Spending half your life in a car and being stuck in an office doesn’t have to be it.” – David Penberthy

[JamieBahrain]

Have to say, the above, titled as a Tree Change, is often in my early retirement fantasies. Having toured most notable and many less notable wine regions and villages around the world, they all have common attributes beyond just wine. Sense of community, rich food cultures and access to top produce and outdoor recreation.

I loved the Clare. Once, we hired a house there for a week. Very relaxing though maybe a little bare-bones for retirement. McLaren Vale & the Barossa probably has it over the Clare. Love the average house price. My suburb in Hong Kong is 10 times that and I often wonder why?

$150 for a bottle of Wendouree a bit steep. I'll pay corkage and BYO a late 80's bottle from the cellar.

[Chuck]

We were there to celebrate a friend's 60th a few weeks ago and really enjoyed Clare and surrounding districts. The Reilly's Cottage (from 1800's) at Mintaro was sensational with the slow combustion stove roaring when we arrived. Full bacon and egg breakfast provisions for at least 6 people in the fridge and proper coffee as well. Full kitchen and comfy lounges. Plus 2 bottles of wine. There was even an underground cellar that was locked off. There's a pub across the road that serves meals and nice local wines so no driving issues. The wineries were very quiet and welcoming. Pike's new cellar door is pretty swish as are the wines.
For those who are keen to experience Clare from Adelaide I would recommend driving via Mallala. A much more interesting drive and about the same distance in time.

[Scotty vino]

I'd say for the last 10 years I'm in the Clare Valley twice a year.
It's an absolute gem. As much as I love BV and Mac vale there's something about CV that sets it apart.
For starters the extra distance away from Adelaide compared to the aforementioned keeps the crowds down.
It's just enough of a decent drive to unwind yet not so far that you can't jet back to Adelaide if you really need to.
I love the way it's laid out and each individual town has it's own little quirk that sets it apart from the next.
Personally I'm a big fan of Watervale and Auburn. The jewels in the crown for mine but also really like skilly hills area.

From our first visit the boss and I have had the CV pencilled in as our retirement spot.
That hasn't changed and I don't see anything changing in future if everything lines up.

I was there just as CV19 (CV? yeah i know) was about to drop in a big way and we were close to just staying for the foreseeable future. We actually found a small place and were seriously considering diving into the CV real estate market.
Boring old common sense got the better of us unfortunately and we headed back to Adelaide.

I'm booked in for 3 nights next month and I'm keen to see the place opening back up and getting back to normal (hopefully for good).

[Mahmoud Ali]

Martindale Hall is a grand old house almost in the middle of nowhere, but a little further north in Burra is Redruth Goal, made famous for an even more iconic film (and one of my favourites), Breaker Morant. It's based on a true but controversial story and stars Edward Woodward and a young Bryan Brown.

[JamieBahrain]

Put your caravan here if a Wendouree tragic.



Lot 14 WENDOUREE ROAD, Clare, SA 5453



1.25 haResidential Land
$229,000


BUILD AMONGST THE VINES - CLARE VALLEY!

LOT 14 WENDOUREE ROAD, CLARE
This private and secluded block is right in Clare, with right of way access from Wendouree Road. The Riesling trail runs behind and is directly accessible from the block. The land is relatively flat with slight elevation and zoned Rural Living, ready for you to build your dream home. Currently 1.25 Ha of Cabernet Sauvignon, fully managed by a neighbour for a few cases of wine each year. You can build among the vines to experience that true Clare Valley lifestyle. Call today to arrange to inspect. This is a very rare opportunity as blocks like this hardly come to the market, a great buy for the astute purchaser. Surround yourself with all that's quintessentially Clare Valley. Power and water available.

[mjs]

perhaps a few of us could go there and form a wine commune

my current plan is Adelaide in 2-3 years, but could be persuaded to head north

[ticklenow1]

It's our dream to retire to Tanunda in the Barossa. Love going there every year and have a good network of friends down there now. Golf course is underrated and the food is pretty good. Been looking for a place and have my eye on one that should come up in a few months (although that could change with Covid). But who knows what the future will bring and I'm a good 10 years away from retirement.

As for the Clare, only been there once and really enjoyed it. Bit more laid back than Barossa and no way near as touristy. Some excellent wineries there too!

Cheers
Ian

[phillisc]

Gee $200 grand for hectare of Clare Cab!!?? Is that the going rate for a boutique holding with no dwelling? That would put other advertised prices of CV vineyards currently on the market at $4M, 20 hectares at Spring Farm Rd...be lucky in this economic climate to get a 1/3 of that.
Yes would be nice but think a place on the coast might be where I end up.
Cheers Craig

[Matt@5453]

Nice little article. Nick summarizes it well. Like any town or region, its what you make of it. Also home to a ripping Indian Restaurant too.

But, the frost can be a killer if you are not an astute gardener

[Matt@5453]

Gee $200 grand for hectare of Clare Cab!!?? Is that the going rate for a boutique holding with no dwelling? That would put other advertised prices of CV vineyards currently on the market at $4M, 20 hectares at Spring Farm Rd...be lucky in this economic climate to get a 1/3 of that.
Yes would be nice but think a place on the coast might be where I end up.
Cheers Craig

That is a 'lifestyle' block. Would want decent heating, gets bloody cold in there.
Viti land in general (planted and plant able) has been in very high demand for a number of years. Record prices being paid. Quite a few Casella signs around the valley now.

[phillisc]

perhaps a few of us could go there and form a wine commune

my current plan is Adelaide in 2-3 years, but could be persuaded to head north

Or we could buy Katnook, apparently only purchased recently by Friexenet sparkling group and now on the market again...200 hectares, 150 under vine, winery/buildings/CD current stock and brand, better buy a ticket

Cheers Craig

[JamieBahrain]

Nice little article. Nick summarizes it well. Like any town or region, its what you make of it. Also home to a ripping Indian Restaurant too.

But, the frost can be a killer if you are not an astute gardener

Matt any idea if the type of arrangement with the grapes mentioned in the lot for sale ? A couple of cases a year and somebody manages your crop ? Or do they take all the fruit too? Is it a typical arrangement of the region?

[phillisc]

Nice little article. Nick summarizes it well. Like any town or region, its what you make of it. Also home to a ripping Indian Restaurant too.

But, the frost can be a killer if you are not an astute gardener

Matt any idea if the type of arrangement with the grapes mentioned in the lot for sale ? A couple of cases a year and somebody manages your crop ? Or do they take all the fruit too? Is it a typical arrangement of the region?

Yes thought that myself, and yes Matt fill us in and please correct my maths/observations.
From the snaps I can almost picture the vineyard, on the right just south of the servo and Brice Hill Cottages behind and Artisans Table a stone's throw away. Vines look 20 something years old, so maybe a couple of tonnes per hectare (100 dozen total or thereabouts). Only 15 to 20 rows so potentially could be easily hand picked and pruned for boutique/lifestyle status. The only downer for me is the block is about 50 metres from the main drag, so if you like listening to traffic all day...still if the walls were thick enough perhaps it would be like living next to a train line, after a while the noise subsides.
Jamie have a mate who has a small operation just out of Auburn, he sells all of the grapes each year, and from this then pays for mechanical pruning and harvesting. He was an ex footy player and brought the land years ago. He is based in Adelaide at the moment but will eventually move back. According to him, its reasonably common practice to own vines but someone else buys a portion or all of the grapes.
Cheers Craig

[Matt@5453]

Nice little article. Nick summarizes it well. Like any town or region, its what you make of it. Also home to a ripping Indian Restaurant too.

But, the frost can be a killer if you are not an astute gardener

Matt any idea if the type of arrangement with the grapes mentioned in the lot for sale ? A couple of cases a year and somebody manages your crop ? Or do they take all the fruit too? Is it a typical arrangement of the region?

that is a small holding, probably only getting a few tonne at the absolute most, and in dollar terms is worth roughly ballpark $4000 less any input costs (in this case the cost of a few cases of wine to the neighbor to manage), if they can off load the fruit for you even better.

[Matt@5453]

Nice little article. Nick summarizes it well. Like any town or region, its what you make of it. Also home to a ripping Indian Restaurant too.

But, the frost can be a killer if you are not an astute gardener

Matt any idea if the type of arrangement with the grapes mentioned in the lot for sale ? A couple of cases a year and somebody manages your crop ? Or do they take all the fruit too? Is it a typical arrangement of the region?

Yes thought that myself, and yes Matt fill us in and please correct my maths/observations.
From the snaps I can almost picture the vineyard, on the right just south of the servo and Brice Hill Cottages behind and Artisans Table a stone's throw away. Vines look 20 something years old, so maybe a couple of tonnes per hectare (100 dozen total or thereabouts). Only 15 to 20 rows so potentially could be easily hand picked and pruned for boutique/lifestyle status. The only downer for me is the block is about 50 metres from the main drag, so if you like listening to traffic all day...still if the walls were thick enough perhaps it would be like living next to a train line, after a while the noise subsides.
Jamie have a mate who has a small operation just out of Auburn, he sells all of the grapes each year, and from this then pays for mechanical pruning and harvesting. He was an ex footy player and brought the land years ago. He is based in Adelaide at the moment but will eventually move back. According to him, its reasonably common practice to own vines but someone else buys a portion or all of the grapes.
Cheers Craig

Interesting marketing. You’d need to bulldoz some of those vines to fit a house on there.

I know this vineyard, I pass it regularly as it backs directly onto the Riesling Trail. Honestly, the rows that back onto the Riesling trail are in poor condition, suggest a lot of Eutypa. The other thing, being near a low lying area and creek area, the frost is going to be pretty heavy, but probably good soils.

Off those vines you are going to get anywhere been 1.5 to 3 tonnes a hectare (maybe more in a really good year). For a year like 2020, probably half a tonne a hectare, if not no crop at all. A buyer would want at least 10 years of data. 100 doz is around the mark. Depending on the quality of the grapes you could get anywhere between $1000 - $2000 a tonne, so not heaps.

One advantage of this block is that you are very close to a bakery and right on the Riesling Trail. Probably 2km to town centre from there by bike/walk. Tim Adams cellar door would become your local, as its about 500m away.

For the right buyer, half a hectare of cabernet, contract made into wine, build a nice place, could be worse places.