La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

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dave vino
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La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by dave vino »

When I woke up in Lyon, I was sensing something was wrong, the usual blinding light of day wasn’t streaming through the curtains and on sticking my head out it was rainy, overcast and generally gloomy. On the train trip down I could barely see the vineyards on the hillsides which were barely 500M away due to fog and low clouds. Not to mention I had no jumper/umbrella, I’d lost my jumper somewhere on the trip.

The Weather App was showing promise for the afternoon although I thought it was being very optimistic. So I trudged through the rain down to the Chapoutier Tasting/Showroom. The wines were very good on the mid-tier brackets although I didn’t get to try the iconic ones which are now 400-800 Euro a bottle. I loved the soil examples built into the floor.

Then to the tourist office enquiring if the Tourist Train was running, no chance in this weather (this was to be my easy way up to La Chapelle). So I headed to Paul Jaboulet to kill a bit of time hopefully and get to taste one of my favourite wines.

I did the tasting and propped myself up on the bar and got chatty with the girl their as she went through the various wines, so she started giving me a few more wines and a mini-La Chapelle vertical for good measure. There was also a young guy on his first day at the bar trying to do his best, he was doing all the Charcuterie I was ordering and being very generous on the amounts.

The 2007, 2011 La Chapelle were both very good, really approachable even at this young age (for them). They also had a Cote Rotie they make and that was great.

So by now I’ve been there about 2 hours and starting to get pretty tipsy, the next tourist train wasn’t until 3pm (2 hours away) and no guarantee of running. So I thought if it is good enough for Gaspard (Story of La Chapelle http://www.skurnik.com/la-chapelle-a-be ... ulet-aine/) to do the walk I should do the same (classic ‘Hold my beer’ moment) and the guys at the bar said the ‘only’ way to do it is straight through the vineyards and not via the dirt road that winds its way up. So with my Paul Jaboulet showbag in hand I set off half drunk, the rain by now had stopped and although still very humid it was better I guess than a hot day.

About half way up, I am saying things about Gaspards mother and why she had him, I’ve never ‘stopped’ for so many photos before – although there were some stunning vistas. The loose limestone and granite rocks made it hard work and not to mention slippery, my calves were asking what they did to deserve this, and my lungs were saying things to make a wharfie blush. (bear in mind, I’m fat and unfit at the moment and half drunk)

Seeing the iconic vines of Chapoutier’s l’Ermite wines and La Chapelle (which incidentally are not around the Chapel but further down the hill) was pretty special and I got a new appreciation of just how steep the vineyards are. I marked a couple of photos in Red to show my route up.

After about an hour of climbing I finally did it and the view is amazing. I sat there all by myself for about 30mins on the park bench admiring it, it is so quiet and serene up there - until a family came along who had come up by car and then the spell was broken. I walked back down via the dirt roads which are a lot more obvious from above.

In all a great day for me as a wine lover.

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Bytown Rick
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Bytown Rick »

Great story and pictures Dave

Mike Hawkins
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Mike Hawkins »

Excellent post. I have to do that one day.....

marsalla
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by marsalla »

Great day, done the walk myself, and it is some climb. Foggy at this time of year would have me worried as a grower.
Enjoy the trip.

Rocky
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Rocky »

Thank you Dave for sharing the trip. Love it how you emphasised the walk up in bold red.

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michel
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Location: Helsinki

Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by michel »

beautiful place to visit isnt it ?
well done on the photographs
International Chambertin Day 16th May

felixp21
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by felixp21 »

Great pics Dave, thanks!!
Jaboulet is an awesome place to drop in to, if you can get to Stephane Ogier that is also great, they have a new winery which is quite spectacular.

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michel
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by michel »

remind me the cellar door built in a massive cave under the mountain ?
or is it this one ?
trying to recall
International Chambertin Day 16th May

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phillisc
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by phillisc »

Dave thanks very much for this...and even I have to admit, many of the prices seem more than reasonable...just a great shame that many would be grossly inflated here.
I know people talk about sense of place with a wine/winery/vineyard...you have it in spades here!!!
Lovely photos.

Cheers
Craig
Tomorrow will be a good day

sjw_11
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by sjw_11 »

thanks for the write up Dave, lovely pictures and a great story.

Reminds me I should put Lyon on my list to visit again and copy your trip.

The last time I was in Lyon, I was driving in the pre-GPS days (well pre-GPS for me anyway). All I had was printed google map directions. I missed exit about 15 on the motorway which I was meant to take as I followed signs for Centre Ville. It was 5:30pm and the tourist office had just closed. My only course of action was to drive around until I saw a road name that was on my directions!
------------------------------------
Sam

WAwineguy
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by WAwineguy »

I've got some of the 2003 La Chapelle - fabulous vintage and yummmmyyyy.....!!

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cuttlefish
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by cuttlefish »

Onya, Dave ! What a great day !
Smack my [insert grape type here] up !

WAwineguy
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by WAwineguy »

Just noticed I have some 2009 also.....salad days!

Con J
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Con J »

looks awesome and thanks for the write up.

I think this is what every wine lover’s dream is. To visit the best wine regions in the world and this is definitely one of them.

Cheers Con.

Mark Carrington
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Mark Carrington »

Cracking report, Dave.
We made our first trip to Northern Rhône, in springs this year, staying in Vienne (as we had booked to eat at La Pyramide, one of the evenings). On one of the days I was allowed out on my own for a visit to Vincent Paris in Cornas. On the way back drove up the vertiginous vineyards & stunning views. Headed back & ended in Tain. Took up an impromptu detour up to La Chapelle (the easy way - by car). It felt like a pilgrimage. I was fortunate as I was the only one there, on a very warm day. Even better views, photos in various books don't do the place justice, & As good as it gets, in terms of visiting a vineyard - matching d''Yquem, Hill of Grace, Wehlen Sonnenuhr, Le Montrachet, Mont Damnées.

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ticklenow1
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by ticklenow1 »

Only two words...WOW! and JEALOUS!
If you had to choose between drinking great wine or winning Lotto, which would you choose - Red or White?

Mahmoud Ali
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Mahmoud Ali »

It would be repetitive for me to say this is a great post. Let me just say that I really like the selfie, it putting me in mind of a young Orson Wells visiting La Chapelle.

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Mahmoud Ali
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by Mahmoud Ali »

And here is another one of Dave, oops, I mean Orson.
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GraemeG
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Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by GraemeG »

Lovely write-up!
Visiting wine regions in person is one of life's great treats that's for sure.
cheers,
Graeme

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dave vino
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Re: La Chapelle - A Pilgrimage

Post by dave vino »

Thanks all for your kind words.

And Mahmoud that is an out there doppelganger if ever I've seen one, admittedly better than 'the fat kid from Hey Dad' so I'll take it with thanks. :-)

Great day, done the walk myself, and it is some climb. Foggy at this time of year would have me worried as a grower.
Enjoy the trip.


Probably not fog per se, more low lying clouds due to the rains.

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