Grand Cru (Perth) Wine Tasting group. “Bordeaux Blends” 19 July 2017

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

It's definitely the time of year for reds. This time, we looked at Bordeaux blends.

Depending on who you talk to, Bordeaux blends can include up to 6 red grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere. Generally, they're either CS or Merlot dominant, although some interesting variations are being created where this is not the case.

In Bordeaux, the CS dominant wines are typically from the Left Bank of the Gironde river, with the Merlot dominant blends being Right Bank. Elsewhere, anything can happen, although some regions have established their reputations originally from emulating the Bordeaux wines.

So, the mission for our tasting group was to bring along a wine that contained at least THREE of these grape varieties. As usual, the wines were tasted blind, with only the vintage revealed (as we taste from young to old).

So, we started with a trio of 2013s:

Picardy Merlot Cabernet 2013 (Pemberton, WA, 13.5% alc, cork closure) contained 49% Merlot, CS 32% and Cabernet Franc 19%. It was a deep red/purple in colour. The nose was spicy, showing blackcurrant, tobacco leaf, menthol, some dried fruit, coffee, brandy and bramble. There were ripe black fruits on the palate, with some vanilla, soft fine grained tannins, and good supporting acid. A couple of tasters noted the wine is a little lacking across the mid palate, and the finish was short-ish. It is, however, quite approachable for a young wine, but probably not one for the cellar.

Trinity Hill “The Gimlett” 2013 (NZ, 13.5% alc, screwcap) comprised 40% CS, 30% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It’s purple/black in colour. The nose features ripe blackcurrants, dark juicy berries, licorice, mint, plums and a slight earthiness. The fruit extends to the palate with ripe plums and fresh fruits over modest but grippy tannins and some supporting acid. Some chocolate and the start of secondary development were also noticeable. The finish is medium only: however, the wine is more complex than the first one, and the group considers this to be a medium term cellaring proposition. This wine was well received by the group.

Truffle and Wine Co 2013 (Manjimup, WA, 14% alc, cork closure) is a blend of CS, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A deep reddish / purple in colour. Initially, I considered this to be corked, with a cardboard nose that never quite disappeared. Beneath this, however, the group noted tobacco, stalks / capsicum, and “Cottee’s Strawberry Jam”. The palate revealed some fleshy plums, over moderate tannins and acid, and a slight astringency. Short to medium finish concluded a wine possibly not showing at it’s best.

Chateau Doyac 2011 (Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France, 13.5% alc, cork closure) is 75% Merlot and 25% CS. It was red / purple with brown tinges. Initial impression was of hydrogen sulphide – underneath this, some savoury characters – salt, bacon, oregano, sage. Fruit was mostly absent, and this flowed through the palate as well – the wine is very dry, a hint of orange peel, acid and grippy tannins, but stripped of fruit. This wine divided the group, with some praising it and suggesting it would be better with food. I just think it was faulty.

Chateau La Gravette Lacombe 2010 (Bordeaux, France, 13.5% alc, cork closure). Composition unknown. Red / purple in colour. Lots of blackberry, plums, coffee / mocha, caramel, raisins and some secondary development all on the nose. The palate is soft, with developed purple fruits. There’s freshness from the acidity, and fine persistent tannins. The only gripe was some hollowness on the mid palate. In some ways a delicate wine, it nevertheless finished long-ish.

Meerlust Rubicon 2010 (Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.5% alc, cork closure). A blend of 62% CS, 24% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Red just bordering on purple in colour. A big smoky, meaty, tarry nose initially, with brambles, black olive, strong cassis, violets (from the PV?), cold tea, miso, and spice. The palate showed volumes of tangy red fruits, mocha, good tannic grip and freshness from the acid. A medium to long finish ended a satisfying wine.

Finally, a pair of 2004 vintage wines were offered:

Ashbrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004 (Margaret River, WA, 14% alc, screwcap) actually contains Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot as well. It’s a light purple with red brick around the edge. Violets, cigars, mint / eucalypt, red and black berries, dark plums, cold tea and pencil shavings were all present on the nose, along with obvious signs of development. The palate was described as explosive, with big ripe fresh red fruits, refreshing acid, some mocha, and good supporting tannins, leading to a long lingering finish. Very well balanced and integrated.

Chateau Musar 2004 (Lebanon, 14% alc, cork closure) contains CS, Cinsault, Cabernet Franc and Grenache. Red / crimson in colour. The nose is smoky, with tar, Marmite (remember that?), wet grass, burnt orange or sugar (a la crème caramel) and secondary development. The palate extends these themes with red fruits, caramel, good supporting acid, grippy but fine tannins, and a long but slightly astringent finish (in some tasters’ view, anyway). Slightly out of balance perhaps, but a very good wine nonetheless.

Wine of the night unanimously was the Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot 2004. This is a wine I buy every year, and it’s likely I will arrange a vertical tasting of 10 years or so in the future.

Cheers
Allan

[Mahmoud Ali]

A very interesting selection of wines to be sure. I've never heard of the two Bordeaux wines so they must be relatively minor chateaux (nor the Truffle and Wine Co. For that matter) but am immensely pleased to see two of my favourite "obscure" wines, the Meerlust and the Musar, included here. Thanks for the notes.

Cheers ........... Mahmoud.