A very enjoyable night, thanks to Mark for organising and to everyone for generousity, lots of excellent wines, great company and passion for wine all round.
Marcel Deiss. This wine was a combination of a whole range of different grapes which as I understand matters all grow in the same field.
Coplanation and "field blends" as they are called, are a common practice for table wine in Alsace, but it's unusual for Grand Cru/Premier Cru vineyards, which Marcel Deiss uses.
As I understand it, a mix of varieties that have naturally attributed themselves towards the terrior of a particular vineyard over the decades, are left to grow there. Jean-Michel Deiss picks whatever grapes are optimal/ripe at that time, regardless of variety and those go into the blend. The precise ratios of each variety in each barrel are therefore somewhat unknown.
Appelation laws in 1975 legislated that Grand Cru wines list the grape variety, which was the death of coplantation and field blends in top vineyards. In 2005 some winemakers led by Deiss fought and won the right to not label the grape varieties on Grand Cru wines, which therefore allowed coplantation and field blends there, (to the disappointment of a few more "modern" operators).
As per his website:
While the grape variety has always been optional for AOC Alsace (Order 1945) and many plots on hillsides were still co-planted in the 60s, the introduction of the legislation which requires the mention of grape variety for Grand Cru (1975 ) can be considered as a historical mistake because it has resulted in a dramatic loss of biodiversity of vineyards, establishment of productive clones and a shift in all varieties. Fortunately, some winemakers have the perseverance and obstinacy, and in 2005, to reform this unjust law (the grape variety is now entirely optional for AOC Alsace and the Grand Cru).