TN: Redgate W.W. Ullinger Reserve Chardonnay 2013

[Waiters Friend]

Bill Ullinger established Redgate in Margaret River in 1977. It was certainly in full swing when I first came across their wines in the early 1990s. At the time, Redgate made a delicious (and within my tiny budget at the time) rose called Cabernet Blanc, which I recall buying for under a fiver (by the case).

Bill has passed on in recent years, but the family continues to operate the business. Ironically, after buying their wines on and off for 25 years, I only visited the winery for the first time 3 or 4 years ago. My focus then was the two varieties Margaret River is best known for - Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. One of the wines I bought then was the 2012 Reserve Chardonnay, so, when Redgate offered me the 2013 at a very good price, I bought a case. I tried a couple when young, and decided to put the rest away. ...... until now.

At 4 years old, this is looking pretty good. Colour is still pale yellow. The nose is showing development, with meal and grain alongside the fleshy nectarine and light peach aromas. There's grilled nuts and a hint of melon as well. The palate is finely chiseled, with a balance of oak and acid providing texture and support to the developing fruit and providing some savoury counterpoint.

Overall, primary fruit is on the way out, in favour of some interesting and complex development. I think I will look at these from time to time over the next two years to determine improvement or whether they have already peaked.

Cheers
Allan