Last week I had a very interesting conversation with a Senior Winemaker of a well-known South Australian label, which brought up a new slant on the familiar subject of high alcohol levels.
It all began when I expressed my thoughts that their latest release 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon was showing its 14.5% alcohol wildly at the moment; I picked up a large spike of heat and steely/mouthwash characters that dominated/contaminated the mid-palate and finish. I wondered if the wine was showing this disjointed and obvious alcohol at such an early stage of its life (under screwcap) could it possibly improve or get worse with bottle age. There’s been some recent comments about some big alcohol 1998s beginning to fall apart already – not as in oxidation, but where the balance between fruit, acid, tannin and alcohol are irreversibly split. The Winemaker pointed out that the 1999 flagship Cabernet Sauvignon had a higher alcohol level – but of course that wine had more powerful fruit to achieve a greater balance. This led to an explanation of what they were trying to achieve through vineyard and winery management, and how at least one major corporate identity was embarking on a very different course of action.
The winery is trying to achieve ripely flavoured wines on a consistent basis, and trying to avoid harsh tannins and greenness that’s seen as a big negative in this country. In a cool vintage such as 2002 this can result in some big alcohol wines in trying to achieve this ripeness – this topic is well covered by Ric Einstein’s 2003 articles “A wake up call to some Winemakers” and “Green is not a four letter word” at http://www.torbwine.com
The Winemaker went on to explain how fermentation in open tanks can help get rid of this alcohol which is bubbled off with CO2; however in closed tanks when the trapped CO2 hits the top, ethanol forms on the surface and drips back down the walls into the fermenting wine. This could be a big problem, right?
It appears some Chemists have found a way of extracting the excess alcohol from the wines, and have been selling these methods – apparently they hold seminars titled “Finding the alcohol sweet-spot”. At least one of Australia’s big multinational wine companies have been brewing some immensely alcoholic wines to achieve maximum fruit flavours, and then tapped off the excess alcohol for use in other products (such as pre-mixed alcohol drinks). The wines are winning gold medals and critical acclaim and are low enough in alcohol to break into certain overseas markets, and they’ve also got a great source of spirit to use/sell for other products.
Is this another example of Australian ingenuity in wine production, or is it a case of the Chemists going too far? As a nation we’ve always been on the cutting edge of science when it comes to winemaking dating back to the work of legends Max Schubert and Ray Beckwith, yet the Winemaker in question certainly gave the impression he wasn’t impressed with these latest developments. Is this a fantastic concept of dealing with increased alcohol levels as a by-product of our quest for ripe wine flavours, or is it somehow a form of cheating?
Cheers
Ian
The Alcohol Sweet-Spot
The Alcohol Sweet-Spot
Forget about goodness and mercy, they're gone.
Ian,
Probably one of the most interesting discussions raised in wine world lately. All power to you to raise it. Why is not the professional press examining this question which not only queries the flavour profile skewing that is symptomatic with an obsession with one American Junior's point tally system but interrogates larger questions of technology being employed for reasons unrelated to quality control. Like GM food, this cynical market driven development raises core ethical and humanistic notions of what wine means.
It would be nice but naive to think that the pursuit of excellence is an end in itself rather than pursuing hitting the weak link in veiled alcohol dependency.
Probably one of the most interesting discussions raised in wine world lately. All power to you to raise it. Why is not the professional press examining this question which not only queries the flavour profile skewing that is symptomatic with an obsession with one American Junior's point tally system but interrogates larger questions of technology being employed for reasons unrelated to quality control. Like GM food, this cynical market driven development raises core ethical and humanistic notions of what wine means.
It would be nice but naive to think that the pursuit of excellence is an end in itself rather than pursuing hitting the weak link in veiled alcohol dependency.
Davo wrote:Dropping the alcohol level in wine?
Hells bells!
And next you are going to tell me you drink the stuff because you like the taste?
What the hell is the world coming to?
Next thing he will be telling you is that he only buys Playboy for the articles and doesn't look at the pictures.
In case anyone is looking for it, the actual link that Ian refers to is here http://tinyurl.com/4oglh
Extract from The Irish Times October 16, 2004
Magazine; Food and Wine; Pg. 29
 ... "THIS WEEK'S INSIDER INFO: HIGH IN ALCOHOL
   Burn, baby, burn. If you've made a habit of peering at the small print on wine labels, you will know that alcohol levels have been rising steadily over the past few years. Why? With their warm, sunny climates, New World countries tend to harvest grapes that are riper, and therefore higher in sugar content, than is traditional in many parts of Europe. In the fermentation process, in which yeast converts sugar into alcohol, the end result is a more alcoholic wine.
   The runaway success of New World wines has made European producers stop and think. What do consumers like about them so much? Their ripe fruit flavours, for a start. Higher alcohol can also make a wine seem smoother - another plus for most drinkers. You can guess what happens next. Many European winemakers decide their grapes should be left to ripen a bit longer. The result: higher alcohol wines in this part of the world as well.
   For example, red Bordeaux, which was typically 12 or 12.5 per cent alcohol up to a decade ago, is now often 13 or 13.5 per cent, and many other regions are following the same trend. Mind you, they still tend to lag behind their New World counterparts. Australian Shiraz can often hit 14.5 per cent, and white wines aren't necessarily far behind. I've come across South African examples of Sauvignon Blanc - light and zesty, usually - at 14 per cent. Winemakers point out that new strains of cultured yeast are more efficient than old ones at converting sugar into alcohol - another factor in the creation of headspinners.
   Does it matter? Some wines carry off a high alcohol content so effortlessly that you'd never guess the figure correctly. Although weighty in style, they taste perfectly balanced, harmonious and enticing. But many of the big, ripe, alcoholic whoppers that are on the shelves these days lose their appeal after a couple of mouthfuls. They taste too sweet, too heavy and above all, too hot. Watch for the burn of alcohol they leave in your throat. Not pleasant. Nobody wants to drink lean, mean wines made from underripe grapes - but nor do we want to drink alcoholic syrup. Maybe the fixation with ripe fruit has gone too far."
Magazine; Food and Wine; Pg. 29
 ... "THIS WEEK'S INSIDER INFO: HIGH IN ALCOHOL
   Burn, baby, burn. If you've made a habit of peering at the small print on wine labels, you will know that alcohol levels have been rising steadily over the past few years. Why? With their warm, sunny climates, New World countries tend to harvest grapes that are riper, and therefore higher in sugar content, than is traditional in many parts of Europe. In the fermentation process, in which yeast converts sugar into alcohol, the end result is a more alcoholic wine.
   The runaway success of New World wines has made European producers stop and think. What do consumers like about them so much? Their ripe fruit flavours, for a start. Higher alcohol can also make a wine seem smoother - another plus for most drinkers. You can guess what happens next. Many European winemakers decide their grapes should be left to ripen a bit longer. The result: higher alcohol wines in this part of the world as well.
   For example, red Bordeaux, which was typically 12 or 12.5 per cent alcohol up to a decade ago, is now often 13 or 13.5 per cent, and many other regions are following the same trend. Mind you, they still tend to lag behind their New World counterparts. Australian Shiraz can often hit 14.5 per cent, and white wines aren't necessarily far behind. I've come across South African examples of Sauvignon Blanc - light and zesty, usually - at 14 per cent. Winemakers point out that new strains of cultured yeast are more efficient than old ones at converting sugar into alcohol - another factor in the creation of headspinners.
   Does it matter? Some wines carry off a high alcohol content so effortlessly that you'd never guess the figure correctly. Although weighty in style, they taste perfectly balanced, harmonious and enticing. But many of the big, ripe, alcoholic whoppers that are on the shelves these days lose their appeal after a couple of mouthfuls. They taste too sweet, too heavy and above all, too hot. Watch for the burn of alcohol they leave in your throat. Not pleasant. Nobody wants to drink lean, mean wines made from underripe grapes - but nor do we want to drink alcoholic syrup. Maybe the fixation with ripe fruit has gone too far."
-
frog
Started out just 13%
....
but the baume levels are getting bigger???
Mental As Anything: Nips are getting Bigger
Started out, just drinkin' beer
I didn't know how or why
Or what I was doin' there
Just a couple more
Made me feel a little better
Believe me when I tell you
It was nothin' to do with the letter
I ran right out of beer
I took a look into the larder
No bones, nothin'
I'd better go and get somethin' harder
Back in a flash
I started on a dash of Jamaica rum
Me and Pat Malone
Drinking on our ow-ow-ow-own
Woh-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Woh-yeah, the nips are gettin' bigger
Wo-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Yeah-eah-eah, mmm they're gettin' bigger
Sometimes I wonder
What all these chemicals
Are doin' to my brain
Doesn't worry me enough
To stop me from doin' it agai-ai-ain
Wipin' out brain cells
By the millions but I don't care
It doesn't worry me
Even though
I ain't got a lot to spare-are-are
Woh-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Woh-yeah-eah, the nips are gettin' bigger
Wo-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Yeah-eah-eah, they're gettin' bigger
....
but the baume levels are getting bigger???
Mental As Anything: Nips are getting Bigger
Started out, just drinkin' beer
I didn't know how or why
Or what I was doin' there
Just a couple more
Made me feel a little better
Believe me when I tell you
It was nothin' to do with the letter
I ran right out of beer
I took a look into the larder
No bones, nothin'
I'd better go and get somethin' harder
Back in a flash
I started on a dash of Jamaica rum
Me and Pat Malone
Drinking on our ow-ow-ow-own
Woh-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Woh-yeah, the nips are gettin' bigger
Wo-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Yeah-eah-eah, mmm they're gettin' bigger
Sometimes I wonder
What all these chemicals
Are doin' to my brain
Doesn't worry me enough
To stop me from doin' it agai-ai-ain
Wipin' out brain cells
By the millions but I don't care
It doesn't worry me
Even though
I ain't got a lot to spare-are-are
Woh-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Woh-yeah-eah, the nips are gettin' bigger
Wo-hoh-oh, the nips are gettin' bigger
Yeah-eah-eah, they're gettin' bigger
-
Willie