Grand Cru (Perth) tasting 3 August 2016

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

This time, the group took an alternative option for a tasting theme. The wine style, colour, variety, etc were wide open, but the wine had to be made in a country other than Australia, France or Italy. Our team of tasters definitely put this to the test, with 10 wines from 7 countries and 4 continents. And no, New Zealand wasn’t even represented ……

As always, the notes below reflect comments by the group as a whole, and this will explain any apparent conflicts.

We kicked off with a pair of German Rieslings, but two quite different wines:

Dr Mayer 2011 Kabinett Trocken Kemstal Wurrtenburg (12% alc). Yellow gold in colour, this wine proved to be more Trocken (dry) than Kabinett with green apple, lime peel, flint / river gravel, a touch of marzipan, and possibly the faintest hint of impending development (kero, or ‘diesling’). It’s semi-dry, with strong acidity, slight pithiness and wet straw, leading to a slightly bitter finish as a result. The wine was described as an ‘awkward teenager’ – possibly going through a ‘dumb’ phase and therefore maybe not showing as well as it has (and will).

The Schloss Lieser Spatlese 2010 of Thomas Haag (7% alc) was lighter in colour than the Mayer. The nose was expressive with fresh and glace pineapple, peach skin, lime brulee, red apple and orange blossom (what colourful notes!). The palate is delicately sweet, with a slight spritz and a surprisingly long finish.

Both of these wines show more delicately than a comparable Australian Riesling.

Still on whites, we then went to Spain, with the Eidos De Padrinan Albarino 2012 from Rias Baixas (12.5% alc). Yellow gold in colour and appearing quite developed. The palate showed almond meal, the traditional brine that Albarinos show, guava, custard, green olives – one taster comments that we were getting most of the components of a decent martini. The brine shows through the palate as well, with slight rancio / flor and good palate weight. It’s quite rich on the back palate, and finishes slightly oily.

Our journey took us to Greece next, and the Assyrtiko by Gaia 2014 (13% alc) from the island of Santorini. This wine definitely spoke of ‘place’ with a nose of salt / brine, gunpowder or struck flint, nuts, geraniums, patchouli, a touch of grapefruit and rancio. The palate shows high acidity, with slight oiliness and astringency. There’s some lemon curd along with nutty, savoury characters, and a good length. This wine reminded me (especially on first tasting) of a Hunter Semillon or an aged Tahbilk Marsanne (except for the saltiness!).

Then onto a country whose wines I don’t think I have tried before – Slovenia. We had the Dveri Pax Sipon 2011 (13% alc). Sipon is the same grape variety as Furmint, and allegedly the name is derived from the French phrase ‘Cest Bon’ (it’s good). This vineyard is also apparently the home of the oldest vine in the world. Purchased for the princely sum of E4.60, this was a really interesting wine – light yellow in colour, with dried apricot, pineapple and …. cheese? This was debated among the group but not only was it cheesy, it was like a washed rind (like the rind of a Camembert – very Slovenian!). The cheese theme flowed through to a palate coating sensation (waxy) despite the high acidity and orange peel. It has a medium, slightly bitter finish.

The white wine of the night was the Schloss Lieser Spatlese 2010, by the smallest of margins.

Before we got to the reds, a mystery red was thrown in. 12% alcohol, and pale red, almost transparent in colour and hue. The nose showed initial mustiness (old oak), some crushed strawberries, charcuterie, soy, and rhubarb. Could it be a pinot? Some hands reached for Burgundy glasses. The palate showed licorice, very light, green tannins, green tea, green herbal tea, and everything indicated grapes picked when unripe. This led to a short finish, and the wine fell over completely within an hour of opening. It was an interesting and not unpleasant experience, and definitely had the group intrigued. And the wine? A Vietnamese red called Vang Dalat, and just called Export Red Wine with no declared vintage.

Onto the serious reds …..

From Chile (Maipo Valley), the Triple C Santa Rita 2011 (14.5% alc) was full of interest. Deep ruby red in colour, The nose was brambly and complex, with heaps going on – rich mulberry, vanilla, tobacco, five spice, white pepper, strawberry jam, leafiness (similar to a Cab Franc), red fruits and Ribena. The palate demonstrated the wine’s high acidity and fine but persistent tannins. The strawberry jam continued along with Christmas cake, spice, dark fruits, a hint of chocolate, all leading to a long satisfying finish. The wine is 65% Cab Franc, 30% Cab Sauvignon, and 5% Carmenere. The story goes that Carmenere died out in France, and cuttings from these (phylloxera uninfected) vines led the reintroduction of this variety into France in the 1980s.

Let’s move continents again – this time to South Africa. The Glen Carlou Petit Verdot Tannat 2011 from Paarl (14% alc) is a deep purple in colour. There’s earthiness, dark chocolate, some oregano and thyme, and black ink or tar. Alas, there’s also a dose of Brett which detracts somewhat, but does not make the wine undrinkable. The palate shows big acid (we considered if there were acid additions) and chunky tannins. There’s lashings of very sweet dark fruit (almost jammy and the phrase ‘fruit bomb’ was overheard), leading to a slightly bitter finish. One taster commented ‘It’s like biting into a black plum’.

We returned to Spain for the final two wines.

Dinastia Vivanco Reserva 2007 is red purple in colour. There’s mint, fresh bright cherry fruit, a bit of Christmas pudding, capsicum, cloves, spice and balsamic vinegar (I’m not sure the last one is a good thing). The palate shows high acid and firm tannins, along with the sense of melted fruit chocolate, and a hint of tobacco leaf. It’s full bodied and finishes long. The group felt this wine is an infant (at 9 years old) and will evolve considerably from here.

The Villa Muriel Gran Reserva 2004 is also red/purple. There’s a touch of volatility right from the start, with the nose showing violets, black fruits, tobacco, roasted chestnuts and brambles. The palate has dusty, chalky tannins, dark crushed cherries, licorice and vanilla, leading to a medium / long finish. This was described as ‘elegant’, but also as ‘adolescent’. Another wine with years ahead of it.

Red wine (by a significant margin) and wine of the night was the Triple C Santa Rita 2011. We welcomed a couple of new members tonight, and Alistair can take great pleasure from bringing WOTN on his first go. Beginners luck ……

Thanks to everyone who was there for an engaging and thoroughly entertaining evening.

Allan

GC-lineup-3-8-16.jpg