TNs: 1981 Birthday wines (Taiitinger, Moss Wood, St Henri)

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Baby Chickpea
Posts: 582
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 12:17 pm

TNs: 1981 Birthday wines (Taiitinger, Moss Wood, St Henri)

Post by Baby Chickpea »

Dinner with one of my best friends to celebrate her 23rd birthday at SydneyÂ’s Longrain Restaurant on 9 September 2004. The wines were all from my cellar and impeccably stored. This is a Thai restaurant but I was there for the wines, she was there for the food (her favourite restaurant). The dishes we shared were:

- Lightly grilled scallops with red chilli, lime juice and deep fried eschalots
- Betel leaves topped with smoked trout, garlic, galangal and trout roe
- Eggnets with pork, prawns, peanuts, bean sprouts and sweet vinegar
- Salt and pepper baby Barramundi with sweet chilli and soy
- Green curry of vegetables with tofu and Thai basil

1981 Taittinger Collection Champagne (Arman)
What a beautiful bottle that drew stares and pointing at the restaurant from other patrons.

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To be honest I was really worried about this one given the variable vintage (although the Krug and Taittinger Comtes des Champagne Blanc de Blanc and stunning Lanson 225th Anniversary Cuvée are all successes) and the fact that the Collection is usually the standard vintage cuvee wrapped up in this great shell. From the website:

The 1981 harvest was one of the smallest in the history of Champagne since the end of the Second World War (92 million bottles). Despite its small yield, the 1981 harvest has an excellent reputation as regards quality. The gathering was preceded by a sunny August and a relatively rainy September. This gave both the white and red grapes a high alcohol level. The Taittinger Collection Brut 1981 was produced from 40% white Chardonnay grapes from the great vineyards of the Côte des Blancs and 60% Pinot Noir harvested from the great vineyards of the Montagne de Reims (Ambonnay, Bouzy, Hautvillers, Mailly).

An abundance of bubbles over the 90 minutes we drank this. Very good mousse (hers was buzzing, mine more reticent). Deep gold colour although difficult to tell in a dimly lit “mood” restaurant. Bouquet is simply lovely. I can breathe easy now. Still fresh with complex flavours of brioche, toast, mushrooms and that mildly sweet honeyish development that I crave so much in aged champagne. On the palate, the wine’s distinction shines through. Gorgeous structure, medium-bodied with honey aromas that are beguiling, and crisp acidity on the finish. The only thing this fine champagne lacked was a killer length but still an excellent wine. Much, much better than expected.
93 / 100

1981 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)
Decanted for one hour while we drank the champers. The sommelier came back with a smile, stating “this smells fabulous!”. Mid red with very minor brown hues. Excellent clarity and colour (from what I could tell). Lovely sweet blackberries, violets (florals) and herbs (green but not capsicum). Superb. The palate is no longer the tannin powerhouse this wine once was. Now well balanced with admirable structure. Bounds of primary fruit remain with the secondary coffee, liquorice, chocolate mudcake and garden herbs flavours, augmenting a very clean finish. Excellent condition (the level of fill was well into the neck). It took four hours (yes, a pretty long dinner – they had to kick us out in the end!) before the fruit ameliorated. Perhaps finishes a tad short but the wine has plenty of life left in it and there is no hurry to drink up. Has aged very well. The sommelier (who is one of Sydney’s best) had two glasses he was so impressed. A major surprise considering where this wine was 5 years ago – mostly tannin. I’m glad I still have some of this, and I would rate it one of the best Moss Wood’s of the 1980s after the fine 1985 (but better IMO than the 83, 86, 87).
92 / 100

1981 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz
Mid to light red with overt brown edges. Faint glimmer of sweet fruits on the nose but faded after 30 minutes. Not overly generous. The palate is good, considering its age but the wine is clearly past its best and the fruit is fading. The fruit that is there offers little in the way of distinction. The length is moderate and oneÂ’s final indelible impression is of a tannin carcass that overpowers the wine. This wine was a little better when last tasted in 2002.
84 / 100
Danny

The voyage of discovery lies not in finding new landscapes but in having new eyes. We must never be afraid to go too far, for success lies just beyond - Marcel Proust

Neville K
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 12:45 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Neville K »

Danny,

Pretty amazing effort to put some lazy 23 y.o wines of disparate region and uniform excellent quality together, given 1981 was an undistinguished vintage in most of Australia, (although quite good in Bordeaux).

I have a similar problem tommorow night for my nephew's 21st family dinner. Can help for 82 or 84, but 83, the cellar is bare: the dreaded drought year for SE Australia. Can't even cheat with conception year. Curiously my last bottle of 83 Moss Wood Reserve was undrinkable. 100% corked; shot to pieces.

Do you reckon Gen Y or Z or whatever a 21yo is these days would care if I brought something close but not quite his birth year?

Your cellar is Alladin's Cave.
Cheers
Neville k

Kieran
Posts: 437
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 10:52 am
Location: Glebe, NSW

Post by Kieran »

83 Grange often turns up for very reasonable prices (in Netwine's reverse Grange auctions it goes for about $300) although it's a little bit young. By all accounts, a freak wine from a tough year.

I think the main component of Rutherglen's best rare fortifieds is 83.

Kieran

Baby Chickpea
Posts: 582
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 12:17 pm

Post by Baby Chickpea »

Neville K wrote:Danny,

Pretty amazing effort to put some lazy 23 y.o wines of disparate region and uniform excellent quality together, given 1981 was an undistinguished vintage in most of Australia, (although quite good in Bordeaux).

I have a similar problem tommorow night for my nephew's 21st family dinner. Can help for 82 or 84, but 83, the cellar is bare: the dreaded drought year for SE Australia. Can't even cheat with conception year. Curiously my last bottle of 83 Moss Wood Reserve was undrinkable. 100% corked; shot to pieces.

Do you reckon Gen Y or Z or whatever a 21yo is these days would care if I brought something close but not quite his birth year?

Your cellar is Alladin's Cave.
Cheers
Neville k


Agree Neville although there have been some good 1981s from Oz - notably Wolf Blass Black label, Grange, Mount Mary Quintet, Tahbilk Shiraz and Cabernet, all of which i still hold (for future birthdays). Kellermeister made an excellent port in 1981 too, which is still available.

As for 83s, some of the 2nd-5th growth Bordeauxs I'm sure you are aware go very cheaply at auction and are still quite drinkable with legs 9especially from Margaux). I picked up an 83 Lascombes last year for $25 and it was pretty good. As for Australia, I like the 707 and Moss Wood Special Reserve (disappointed to hear yours was corked - did u send it back to the winery?????), and the 83 Wolf Blass Black is a lovely wine with many years ahead of it (Recent TN here )! Also, Sauternes are very good (like Lefaurie Peyraguey - always well priced) and Champagne - I'm still have supplies of the the very good 83 Moet. Most of these wines are below $100 at auction.

Look out also for 1983 vintage malt whisky's – i have several bottles of the 1968 Macallan (my birth year). Macallan make vintage dated malts for most years and are priced between $100-$250 but last for years!

My experience with Gen Xers/Ys is that they always feel privileged to try an aged wine as old as them so wouldn't worry too much about the exact vintage. It's usually their first opportunity and they are more often than not hooked!

Good luck and let us know how you went ....
Danny

The voyage of discovery lies not in finding new landscapes but in having new eyes. We must never be afraid to go too far, for success lies just beyond - Marcel Proust

KevinT
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:52 pm
Location: Subiaco. WA

Post by KevinT »

Neville K wrote:Curiously my last bottle of 83 Moss Wood Reserve was undrinkable. 100% corked; shot to pieces.


Pity about the Moss Wood 83. Had one at the end of last year and it was an absolute beauty! My first experience with an aged Aust wine that was a memorable experience. As Danny said....... I am now hooked.

Good luck with your quest
"............ anything, as long as it's red"

Kevin

Neville K
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 12:45 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Neville K »

Baby Chickpea wrote:. As for Australia, I like the 707 and Moss Wood Special Reserve (disappointed to hear yours was corked - did u send it back to the winery?????).


Danny I have never sent a bottle back to a winery claiming a replacement for a corked bottle, but given the comments regularly made in these forums suggesting that one should- even if it is for feedback purposes in respect of the the winery's quality assurance- and perhaps didactically to encourage the move to Stelvin closures -I have on this occasion emailed Moss Wood.

We'll see what happens.
BTW good point on aged wine. I'll take a 1984 John Riddoch to family 21st dinner tonight. Had one last week and quite liked it. I did have an 83 Tahbilk but drank it an offline not long ago.

Cheers
Neville

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