TN: Lunch with an old chenin

[mychurch]

Always repack my wine fridges in Jan and usually there are a few victims. This year it was a 1911 Marc Bredif Chenin, that was slowly leaking onto a bottle of Grand Cru Burgundy. Cork was slightly raised and with a level of min 6cm, I was not expecting much. Saved it until yesterday and decanted the bottle at 10 for a 1pm lunch. Past experience has shown that old Chenin seems to pop back to like with air, but on opening it was clear that my fears were ungrounded: the wine was fine, with high sweetness and balancing acidity. It was in such good shape when we got to the restaurant we decided to leave it for the cheese. That was a mistake as by then, 15:30, the wine had become darker and the freshness was starting to go. At its peak though it was brilliant: barley sugar, sweet tangerines, refreshing acidity, Earth and a silky texture. Better than a trio of 59 Chennins drunk a few months ago. God only knows how good the '21 is, but it's hard to believe it can get much better.

With the lunch we began with an 08 Leroy Aligote (liquid matches) that is well made (never in doubt) but will be better with more time in the cellar. We then had a 97 Nikolihof Wachau Vinotech reisling, that was concentrated, balanced and boring as hell. With a couple of glasses of reds with the main - a very drinkable 13 Anne Gross Bourgonne and a big 13 Henschke Henry's 7 - followed by a Maqvin De Jura with the cheese, we ended up leaving with some big smiles on our faces. Great day and a good send off for a very special bottle of wine.

[Rocky]

My only experience with a Chenin was a trio of Vouvays in 2013. Was a 1974, 1985 and 2005 which I picked from a cellar door just out of Amboise. The 74 was gone, 85 was magnificent and the 05 too young. For value and the experience there is little better.

[Rickowa]

Wood aged chenins are a delight with some age. Not very many available in oz. Peel estate make one which ages beautifully. I try to give them 8-10 years before touching them. It's very common on the Cape (South Africa) but hard to get here.

[mychurch]

Here in Holland we do have reasonable access to South African Chenin, and it can be really great. They tend to be all dry though, at least at the top end, and while they can age in the short/medium term, I haven´t seen anything that can age like the great Loire Vouvrays. Thats not a bad thing though - a comment from my mate Jelle on sat was "finally, I get to taste a mature Loire Chenin"...think he was getting a bit fed up with those 50 year wines that still need time in the cellar..