TN: d'Arenberg

[n4sir]

d’Arenberg 2003 Hermit Crab Marsanne Viognier: This wine is very dry when chilled, with the tannins of the two whites sticking out from the pithy lemon/apricot fruit. It’s quite a nice drop really, but I cannot help thinking that the addition of a little Roussanne from the Money Spider would make it even better blend. Don’t over-chill it.

d’Arenberg 2003 The Last Ditch Viognier: Very obvious cashew-nut malolactic French barrel ferment characters from the 9 months in used oak dominate the nose. The palate again features that classy oak with a touch of butter and orange peel, and like the blend is refreshingly dry and cleansing, and not at all sweet or sickly. This is crying out for a bit of rich food to match – Scaloppine Fungi perhaps?

d’Arenberg 2002 d’Arrys Blend Shiraz Grenache (50/50): Beautiful deep red/purple colour, and an equally rich and clean nose of blackberry, pepper and liquorice. The palate is much richer than the 2001 with a complete absence of oak or hot alcohol despite the 14.5% figure; liquorice is very prominent at first, and then raspberry with more air and warmth. If you can find it for $12.99, it’s and absolute bargain.

d’Arenberg 2001 The Custodian Grenache: Stood out like a bit of a sore thumb among the 2002s; bright raspberry red colour without the depth of the newies. The palate features very pleasant raspberry and pepper characters, but compared to the surrounding wines it lacked depth.

d’Arenberg 2002 High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon: The colour is a beautiful inky red/purple. The nose is complex and very forward; coal, earth and mint at first, then some menthol as the wine warms/breathes. The palate is just as plush, with mint, chocolate, and that flush of liquorice common to all of the 2002 releases, finishing bigger and slightly hotter than the d’Arrys blend (14.5%). This was very similar to the 2002 Scarpantoni that made a pretty big impact on the McLaren Vale trip last March, hinting the Vales Cabernets are well worth checking out this vintage. Another $12.99 bargain.

d’Arenberg 2002 Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz: It keeps getting better! Dark red/purple colour, with a nose dominated by the oak at first; sweet coconut, then funky vegemite and coffee, but soon enough the rich plum, blackberry, black cherry and liquorice fruit take hold. The palate is soft and rich with blackberry and black cherry, and even more liquorice then the previous 2002 wines; there’s oak present in the palate, but the fruit is truly welded over the top. The wine is again far richer than the 2001, again without a sign of the 14.5% alcohol this time around, and for $12.99 is ridiculously cheap.

d’Arenberg 2003 Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier: Deep purple/black colour. The nose and palate are very clean, and devoid of those stinky/sweet apricot and game characters that I’m starting to resent in these blends. Plummy fruit and fine grained but prominent tannins rule the wine, making it pleasant drinking now with food, but also making me question if it will cellar. At present I’d say it’s marginally better than the 2002.

d’Arenberg 2000 The Ironstone Pressings: Surprisingly developed brick red colour, with hues of brown onion skin. The nose is a huge, complex, and developed mix of couch leather, game, some cinnamon and mint, and a touch of liquorice. The palate is just as developed and soft; the massive tannins in other vintages of this wine just aren’t there in this. It’s ready for a rich casserole now and I can’t see it improving with further bottle age; nice wine but there’s no way it should be priced the same as the Dead Arm.

d’Arenberg 2002 Dead Arm Shiraz: Not due for release until the 8th of August, and lives up to the hype in every facet. Superb inky red/purple colour. The nose is closed at the moment, with the oak at times noticeable with coffee and a touch of lanolin; deep under the surface some violets, plum, blueberry, blackberry, and liquorice await for the proper drinking window. The palate is on another scale to all the wines in the line up; a slow huge build-up of plum/blackberry/liquorice fruit and chalky tannins and supporting oak that as TORB would say, crawl across the palate. Magnificent.

d’Arenberg 2000 Vintage Declared Shiraz Port: Yet another name change for the fortified Shiraz, apparently to do with USA labelling requirements. Following the Dead Arm was always going to be a big ask, and a vintage port with grapes from the same vineyard was a logical choice. The nose and palate are very rich with sweet liquorice and raisin characters, and surprisingly isn’t hot for the resulting flavours. Along with the Coriole this is a consistently good VP at the apex of a great (but underrated) fortified producing region.

Cheers
Ian

[TORB]

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the great notes. Agree with you completely on the value of the Footrot.

Pity you didn't get a chance to try the Sticks and Stones blend.

Question re the Dead Arm. I saw a TN on a US forum that said there was blackberry and prune spectrum fruit up front. I am not keen on prune (except in my cereal or fruit compote) , did you notice any prune flavours.

Also, drinking window estimate please. Another US forum was saying it was ready to drink now.

Many thanks

[JamieBahrain]

Gday Ian

Great notes.

Have you heard of these?

The Bonsai Vine GSM, The Derelict Vineyard Grenache and Sticks & Stones Tempranillo? All d'Arenberg wines.

They have turned up here in Hong Kong-smart labels and chests full of medals!

Wondering if they are one of the same with some of your above mentioned wines. Custodian etc.

Just noted Torb's post re Sticks & Stones. Not an export only label then.

[GrahamB]

Gday Ian

Great notes.

Have you heard of these?

The Bonsai Vine GSM, The Derelict Vineyard Grenache and Sticks & Stones Tempranillo? All d'Arenberg wines.

They have turned up here in Hong Kong-smart labels and chests full of medals!

Wondering if they are one of the same with some of your above mentioned wines. Custodian etc.

Just noted Torb's post re Sticks & Stones. Not an export only label then.

Jamie

I tried the Sticks & Stones at cellar door just after Easter and was suitably impressed enough to buy then and there and carry all over S Aus.

Since coming home I have consumed my supply and am now having trouble getting some more. Seems to be in short supply here in Aus.

Graham

[Attila]

Dear Ian,
Excellent notes and style.
However I must note that the 2000 The Ironstone was tasted earlier this week in Europe where it took out second place in our Australian Shiraz/Shiraz blend tasting.
It is a velvety rich monster with plenty of oak and tannin. I believe it will improve for many years to come. More concentrated and focused than the 1998 and not as lean and tannic as the 1999. I loved it very much, I thought it was excellent.
Full details on our tasting experience is soon to follow.
Cheers,
Attila

[TORB]

Bugger!

The mad Hungarian has returned, there goes the neighbourhood!

Look forward to seeing you next week for a quiet sip or 20 of plonk.

[Attila]

...and so it will be done.

Cheers,
Attila

[Baby Chickpea]

Thanks for the excellent notes Ian. I tasted a few of these at CD on my recent SA trip and I found the entire range mixed - good to excellent.

[n4sir]

Question re the Dead Arm. I saw a TN on a US forum that said there was blackberry and prune spectrum fruit up front. I am not keen on prune (except in my cereal or fruit compote) , did you notice any prune flavours.

Also, drinking window estimate please. Another US forum was saying it was ready to drink now.

I was lucky enough to try most of these twice, and I didn't pick up any over-ripe prune flavours in the Dead Arm. It is fairly closed on the nose, and the oak is in a bit of a rebellious mood too, but you could drink it now with a lot of breathing, and a very rich cut of steak. As far as a drinking window goes, it's really hard to tell, but I feel it will be very long lived. I was probably more impressed with this than the 1998 on release.

However I must note that the 2000 The Ironstone was tasted earlier this week in Europe where it took out second place in our Australian Shiraz/Shiraz blend tasting.
It is a velvety rich monster with plenty of oak and tannin. I believe it will improve for many years to come. More concentrated and focused than the 1998 and not as lean and tannic as the 1999. I loved it very much, I thought it was excellent.

My comments on the 2000 Ironstone Pressings may have been a bit skewed from it being surrounded by latest releases. It was certainly more impressive than the 2001 I tried back in March, and was very classy while showing quite a bit of bottle age already. I'm surprised you rate it higher than the 1998 - while I haven't tried it since it's release, I always thought the 1998 was about the most concentrated, intense and hedonistic GSM blend I have come across.

Cheers
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

Ian.

Incidentally, Parker described the DArm as being "very impressive, but backward" on the "other" forum.

Not giving much away for the wine speculators, but not a bad rap I assume.


Time to hunt down a six pack. Will you be buying any?

[n4sir]

This wasn’t available for tasting on the day, but there were enough comments to prompt me to buy a bottle to try for myself and add to the previous notes.

d’Arenberg 2002 Sticks & Stones Tempranillo Grenache Souzao: Dark, glowing vivid purple colour. There’s quite obvious malty oak on both the nose and palate; underneath the timber there’s some quite sweet plum, beetroot, cherry, and some dusty/floral characters on the nose. The palate likewise features deep, sweet and spicy fruit, finishing with lingering plum, blackberry, chocolate, liquorice, and even a hint of tea competing with that malty oak. The wine is not hot on the palate, but I certainly seemed to notice that 14.5% alcohol in my system after a few glasses; I would almost describe this as being dangerously easy to drink. As you would expect of a such a multiple award winner, great depth, softness, and plentiful but subtle tannins.

The wine is a total contrast in style (not quality I might add) to the Gemtree Tempranillo I tried a few months ago; a vivid purple colour to the bright cherry red, very obvious malty oak to no oak influence, and very ripe plum/chocolate/liquorice to spicy/nutty cherry characters. Interesting stuff.

Cheers
Ian