Good article by Huon Hooke, but I had to laugh when I read the sommelier's comments below. What a typical sommelier, really has no clue.
I am sure many on this forum have had similar experiences to me, when a customer with a good wine knowledge makes an inquiry about a particular wine, only to see the sommelier back down sharply, and clam up when he/she realises any embellishment of the facts will be quickly picked-up on.
I have a son who is a chef, and has worked in several of Melbourne's "fancy" restaurants, for want of a better expression. In most of these, the true value of a sommelier is to steer the inquiring customer towards a wine that either they have an abundance of, or a wine that will maximise the restaurant profit.
In 1984, I took my then girlfriend, now ex-wife
, to Glo Glo's in Toorak, then a formidable establishment, to pop the big question. IN those days, pre-CGT and when you could still charge a meal on tax, they had a superb wine list, as did many many fine restaurants. After wading thru an enormous wine list, I spied the 62 Grange for $55, which was a real bargain, and asked the sommelier over to order the bottle. Clearly, they did not want to part company with that stock, and to my amazement, he started to drone on about how we might feel the wine was much too "big and bold", and tried to turn my attention to a Prince Albert pinot, which he thought would be much more to the liking of this young couple. I literally had to argue for five minutes to get my wine, pointing out what a bargain the wine was, and that I had no interest in drinking a (in those days) thin bottle of dish-water from Geelong. I even remember telling him that at $55, the 62 was a far better bet than the 55 Grange was at $155!!! (wouldn't you love to see those prices now!!!) The wine was reluctantly decanted and served. He was a complete tool, and I guess that was the night, almost 30 years ago, when I lost all respect for the position of a sommelier. Try as I might, the experience actually really put a dampener on the whole evening, and I can remember the exchange I had with this guy as if it were yesterday.