Drinking first the Black Label, then the John Riddoch, I'm utterly convinced that Wynns is telling the truth about the percentage of their fruit, at the pinnacle, that makes it into the latter. The John Riddoch got all the good (genetic!? ) material in the case of these twins, born in 1994.
Wynns Black Label Cabernet 1994 - Very deep bright garnet red with just a petite tinge of purple remaining; shows no sign of early ageing, some surprising, though thin, glass cling. Quite astringent, somewhat geen, stalky nose, some (certainly not over ripe) red and black fruits, leather and dry, dusty spice. In the mouth, the tannins are immediately obvious, almost too much so, though the palate is not as short as that suggests. This is so very clearly Cabernet, and for that in itself, a treat. Dry cherries, plum, red apple skin, leather, dry tobacco leaf, more red fruits, though very much behind the tannins at this stage. This just might come together in another few years, but right now the fine, ever drying tannins are winning the race. Will hold as it is, if not develop, for at least 5 years. If you like your Cabernet drying and astringent, then this is to die for. Possibly not to drink by itself though, this needs steak
Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet 1994 - Deep black-purple heart, bright, vibrant deep red edges. Wow! "This is not 10 years old!", I thought. Current releases aren't this deep and rich. Dumb, muted nose. Sweet vanilla, cherries, strawberries, shy red and black fruits, richer and deeper than the Black Label, floral aromas too, not stalky in the same way, though still dry. The palate confirms it, dumb, somewhat short, but concentrated, notes in a similar vein to the bouquet. Tannins less intrusive than Black Label. Excellent potential, but not a great showing. THAT was the first day, after two hours in the decanter. The following day, this stunning beauty has opened, unfolded like a flower! Colour stable, of course. The bouquet has filled the room, no less. Mocha, leather, earth, vanillin, chocolate, tar, tobacco, scent of candied cherries, rose petals, cocoa!, dark red berries, but never into the overly ripe plum spectrum. "Heaven in a wild flower"...in a glass, Mr Blake! In the mouth; wonderful balance, what a metamorphosis. Much longer than before, velvety, fine tannins...and coating, the wonderful promised flavours last though to the end of a greatly structured, still a little tight, but much more giving palate. This has years in front of it, including several on the improve, I would guess; that said, it is starting to show it's truly beautiful side already. Is it love?
Certainly worth the typing; standout Cabernet after a month or two of medicore to truly GREAT Shiraz. Notes on those when time without glass in hand permits
Happy Drinking!
Jakob