'Ten Years On'

[Mike Hawkins]

I was invited to a fantastic tasting of 2004 vintage champagnes, most of which I was able to take from 2 or 3 separate bottles. While the 1996, 2002 and 2008 vintages justifiably receive all the hype from the region, 2004 has thrown up some excellent champagnes that many would describe as 'classic'. Additionally, as a high yield vintage, most of the 2004s aren't too hard to find at retail.

My thoughts, ranked in order of preference.

Dom Perignon. This has improved so much over the past year - it is now rounder and fuller. All 3 bottles were superb. Mouthfilling with the trademark DP creamy elegance. Classic DP. Ranked #3 by the group.

Cristal. Not normally my favourite, perhaps, in part, due to its reputation with the bling crowd. Notwithstanding that, this is a fabulous wine. It finished with wave after wave of flavours. Group's #2.

Taittinger Comtes. The 2nd bottle was served at room temperature, which was a revelation. Fantastic wine, with tons of minerality abnd outstanding length. First bottle was really good too, but I would never have guessed they were the same wine such was the temperature impact.

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses. My notes read 'latent power'. A wine that rarely shows well when young, but this one was pretty good & so I ranked it on potential as well. This will be the real deal in 2 decades.

Cristal Rose. My favourite of the roses. Lots of red fruits, tons of power. If your pockets are deep enough to afford it, you won't be disappointed. Just a pup.

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. Not sure how much Pinot is in this, but it dominates both the nose and palate. Rich and mouthfilling. Superb, and possibly my favourite ever LGD.

Taittinger Comtes Rose. One of the better releases under this label. Lots of strawberries and cream (it is Wimbledon season after all)

Bollinger Grande Annee. Powerful and open for business. A crowd pleaser. Drink this while you wait for the 2002s to come around

Bollinger Grande Annee Rose. A champagne that needs food...... Perhaps very rare rack of lamb. Really good.

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rose. Not a wine I've had too often, and probably my least favourite of the expensive Roses. Still, had I been served this on its own, I would have been thrilled to drink it.

Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray. I found this a bit hard to evaluate and was underwhelmed given the hype around it and its siblings. That said, what do I know - It was the group's highest rated wine.

Gosset Grand Millesime. By far the best value in this crowd. I imagine the 2004 Celebris will be awesome when it's released based on this showing.

Pol Roger Brut - really good wine, but to use racing parlance, it struggled at weight for age. A very good handicapper...

Perrier Jouet Belle Époque. Outclassed. Ok wine, but not at this price... I really wonder why people pay so much. Perhaps it's the pretty bottle?

Pol Roger Brut Rose. Perfectly acceptable champagne, but again, in this line up, it was overwhelmed. I preferred the 2006 at the maison a few weeks ago.

Perrier Jouet Belle Époque Rose. Dreadful. Both bottles reeked of sulphur and went down the sink.


A couple of other champagne notes.... The 2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill was released this week and the entire UK allocation of 660 cases sold out in 2 hours apparently (sadly, I missed out). Also, allegedly when the 2005 Dom P is released it will be in very small quantities - arguably the lowest volume in many decades.

Cheers

Mike

[Andrew Jordan]

Gra-Gra thanks for the great tasting notes.

So what was the No.1 ranked bubbles by the group?

[Mike Hawkins]

The Jacquesson. At £160, it doesn't represent value for me...

[Andrew Jordan]

Mmm sounds like I need some of the 2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses. Btw we are having a bottle of the 2004 Camille Saves tomorrow night. How do you think this compares to the 2002?

[catchnrelease]

Just had a bottle of 2004 DP arrive today - not a usual buy for me but after tasting some old Krug I want to put a bottle of premium stuff away long term to open later on for a special occasion. Any idea on the lifespan of this wine? Heard everything from 5-30 year lifespans for it.

[Mike Hawkins]

Mmm sounds like I need some of the 2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses. Btw we are having a bottle of the 2004 Camille Saves tomorrow night. How do you think this compares to the 2002?

The 04 is pleasant, the 02 is superb...

The Goisses needs decades. It always looks like an 'awkward teenager' when young, but the metamorphisis over time is incredible.

[Mike Hawkins]

Just had a bottle of 2004 DP arrive today - not a usual buy for me but after tasting some old Krug I want to put a bottle of premium stuff away long term to open later on for a special occasion. Any idea on the lifespan of this wine? Heard everything from 5-30 year lifespans for it.

While its just starting to drink really well, it will see out 20 years with ease, noting that Champagne is extremely sensitive to light and higher temperatures (the Champenois store it at 10 degrees)

[Mike Hawkins]

Just had a bottle of 2004 DP arrive today - not a usual buy for me but after tasting some old Krug I want to put a bottle of premium stuff away long term to open later on for a special occasion. Any idea on the lifespan of this wine? Heard everything from 5-30 year lifespans for it.

While its just starting to drink really well, it will see out 20 years with ease, noting that Champagne is extremely sensitive to light and higher temperatures (the Champenois store it at 10 degrees)

[kleal]

My thoughts on the 04's I've had

I agree the 04 DP is a stunner built for the long haul. especially after this disastrous 03.

04 Bollinger LGA was a dissapointment for me. I found it quite flabby both times I've had this.
04 Bollinger LGA Rose is more refined than the standard LGA.

04 Tattinger Comtes BnB - Great elegant, graceful but still has power

[Mike Hawkins]

I've probably had the 04 LGA about 6 times now and never noticed flabbiness. That said, it certainly doesn't have the acidity of the 2002.

[camw]

I wouldn't describe the 04 GA I've had as flabby either but I'm also not especially enamoured by it. Of the ones I've tried I'd much rather 04 Dom or Taittinger CdC.