"A dinner with friends", was all about getting together with some friends and sharing some great food, wine and banter. It wasn't t a wine night, as sometimes we tend to over analyse and shut out less interested partners/spouses/colleagues when doing some of our wine tastings, so it was more about just having a fun, relaxed evening, with lots of laughter and the wines providing a backdrop to it all. (there were some sensational wines albeit)
There was a lot of work done prior to the event by the two organisers, finding a restaurant willing to do the dinner (as soon as you mention Saturday, Group Booking, BYO in the same sentence your options plummet dramatically). Finding suitable dates/times for 12 busy people, choosing the wines, organising the flights/courses, working with the chef on matching the wines and building the menu, getting the wines to the restaurant during the week and all the paraphernalia we needed on the night. Creating a nice handout for the event as a keepsake, fretting over how the wines would show and if everyone would like them and the food/restaurant chosen. It took lots and lots of work to create this relaxed evening
In hindsight simply put - it was worth it. Hugely fun night, with some real tears of laughter moments "what happens with the moonboot and handbag in the crockery cupboard, stays in the crockery cupboard. (loooong story
)Took some pics, didn't take any notes, so any recollections are from memory as yours truly was Sommelier for the evening (my credentials being I'd watched Somm 3 times)
Final Line-up was as follows
Billecart-Salmon NV
1998 Krug Vintage Champagne
1993 Orlando St Helga Rhine Riesling
2004 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay
1971 Heinz Trapp, Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Auslese
2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling, Auslese Goldkapsel
1971 Penfolds Grange
1972 Penfolds Grange
1992 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz
1992 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz
1996 Mt Pleasant Maurice O'Shea Shiraz
1973 Staatsweinguter Hochheimer Domdechaney, Rheingau Eiswein-Beerenauslese
Campbells Isabella Rare Tokay
First up, huge thanks to the team at The Devonshire, they were magnificent on the night, the vibe of the restaurant is just so relaxed, friendly and affable, the food prepared and executed to perfection. Nothing was too much trouble for them. Do yourself a favour and get out to Surry Hills and try the Degustation menu they offer and I guarantee you won't be disappointed. http://www.thedevonshire.com.au/
Aperitif
Billecart-Salmon NV
Course One
Salt Fish Brandade with caper sauce
1998 Krug Vintage Champagne
Course Two
Woodside goat curd mouse, crush jerusalem artichokes, fried cauliflower, croutons, macadamia and parsley.
1993 Orlando St Helga Rhine Riesling
2004 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay
Course Three
Hot smoked and tartare of Regal King Salmon, chargrilled lemon puree, pickled daikon, coriander and quail egg
1971 Heinz Trapp, Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Auslese
2009 Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling, Auslese Goldkapsel
Course Four
Crumbed short rib and bresaola of wagyu, truffled celeriac, baby fennel, breakfast radish and chervil
1971 Penfolds Grange
1972 Penfolds Grange
Course Five
Roasted Pork Belly and shoulder, smoked potato mash, green papaya, apple, sage, and crackling.
1992 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz
1992 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz
Course Six
Slow cooked rump and breast of Milly Hill lamb, herb gnocchi, dried black olives, cherry tomatoes, and eggplant.
1996 Mt Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz
Course Seven
Lime cheesecake mousse and jelly, salted peanut biscuit crumble, coconut sorbet and lemon balm.
1973 Staatsweinguter Hochheimer Domdechaney, Rheingau Eiswein-Beerenauslese
Course Eight
Bittersweet Chocolate fondant, honeycomb and caramel ice-cream and dried brownie crumbs.
Campbells Isabella Rare Tokay
Brief Notes and Impressions
The proceedings were started off with a nicely showing bottle of Billecart, which is, if it isn't anything else, a very well put together champagne with the right amount of acid, fruit and interest. The Krug was a different league, one of the rarer vintages where Chardonnay is the dominant blend, it was tightly coiled, with a huge length and power of fruit. A lovely aroma of green hay emanated as it sat in the glass, bringing back memories of childhood holidays spent in the country climbing and larking about over stacked bales of hay. They say this will last 30 years in a canter, and they are dead right. C'est Magnifique.
The 93 Orlando St Helga, was superb, hints of kero, lovely lemon candy and an acidic backbone holding it all together. At 21 years old, I wasn't really sure what to expect when I popped the cork and poured a bit, the first thing I said was this is really singing and right in the zone.
The 04 Giaconda opened up as the powerhouse it is, lots of struck match and flint on the nose on first pour, so in the decanter it went. The oak treatment oozes class, and it is still quite primary with a luscious mouthfeel. Powerful aromatics of lemony musk, demanding your attention.
The 71 Auslese, I seriously love this stuff and could drink it all day, a lovely marmalade, orange, caramel which is just so fresh and pure. The 09 JJ Prum GK Auslese was bordering on infanticide, it was so very Moorish and full bodied, with gobs of power, oh for a time machine to see this in 40 years.
The 71 Grange was a revelation. One of my bucket list wines, being a birth year and widely regarded as probably in the top 5 vintages of Grange. I was very nervous when opening this, praying to the cork gods it would be ok, the Gods were indeed in a benevolent mood and so much more. Utterly beguiling, so fresh, beautifully balanced, soft on the palate with plums, blackberry, cedar, the last vestiges of structure all coming together in the perfect package of finesse and aplomb. Yes I'm gushing, it was that good.
The 72 Grange was the unruly younger brother, this had enough sediment in it to bed a rose garden or two. Where the 71 was all grace the 72 was meaty, gamey, a real mans Grange
. Smokey dark fruits, leather with forest floor underlying it all. Luckily not one of the infamous oxidised bottles, it started off a bit stinky out of the bottle but improved rapidly once decanted and subsequently served, I really started to enjoy it with some time in the glass and in isolation is a very good drink. But for me the 71 stole the show. The 92 HoG was a Masterclass in refined power and elegance. Impenetrable black colour, this is a wine still on the ascent. Blackberry, and dark fruits, liquorice, chocolate and silky tannins with lots of grab and lots of length. The purity of fruit is amazing, so focused and linear. Amazing wine.
The 92 Rockford, had a cork that was almost soaked through which gave me some palpitations. Luckily the wine was still sound, it was showing very well with some nice secondary and tertiary elements and the tannins having nearly resolved into the wine. Dark stewed plums and sous bois, leather, it has lost some of its fruit brightness that it is so famous for. Now we have something akin to a lovely and dear spouse/partner/friend who is maturing and is totally comfortable with their body and mind with no airs or graces. I would probably drink it up now.
The 96 O'Shea was totally unexpected (both literally and stylistically). It was originally taken along as a backup for any faulty wines and due to a last minute decision to move some courses up it was decided to bring that out as an extra wine. I was expecting the usual Hunter pooey, saddle leather characteristics but this was anything but. Light ruby colour, with redcurrant, spices, this is not a big in your face shiraz. A very mild mannered wine, in a good way, showing that you don't have to be all about power to get the girls.
The 73 EBA was a dark, golden brown which had me sighing as the aromas from the decanter wafted up. It is so rich and decadent, yet so alive and fresh I just really don't know how the Germans do this so well. To have the foresight to make something that will last and taste so well after 40 years. Burnt caramel, toffee, molasses, chocolate orange all swirling together to produce a sublime wine. It just goes on and on and on.
This Isabella Rare Tokay was as ever a fitting way to finish proceedings and slowly wind down the evening. Lighter than the Merchant Prince, with more rancio characteristics and dried spices intertwined with the raisins and treacle, it went perfectly well with the warm chocolate fondant.
Not a dud wine all night with 4 x 40year old ones, 4 x 20 year old wines all showing very well. A great night. Thank you Cork Gods, thank you ball boys.
Thanks to all for making it a great night.
