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TN: Chateau Canon 1988

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:15 am
by dlo
Nineteen-ninety-eight is a Bordeaux vintage that I’m quite fond of - the wines aren’t blockbusters but are pretty much on the money for drinking now, are relatively sound both sides of the Gironde and the better Chateaux can be sourced on the secondary market for reasonable prices (compared to what you’d pay for the same labels from 82, 86, 89, 90, 96, 00, 03 or 05).

Canon were on a relatively hot streak in the eighties under the stewardship of Eric Fournier. I still have some ‘82 (92 points) waiting in the wings for the right occasion to present itself, as well as a stray bottle of ‘89 (not tasted). This ‘88 was a recent auction purchase ($93 all up). Level well into neck, cork stained 25 ml from base. No leakage. 12.5% A/V.

Holds a partially transluscent but healthy light ruby with extensive bricking in the edges. Unfolding and improving over several hours, this fully mature Saint Emillon exhibits the classic leafy Bordeaux bouquet of damp earth, undergrowth, dried Provencal herbs, red- and black-currants, graphite, damson plum with a licorice top note. In the mouth, the wine is barely of medium-body, but holds an excellent line, displays an elegant purity, good focus, is well-balanced with fruit, acids and tannins in sync., albeit slightly austere but with very good grip on quite a substantive finish. A drink now proposition, this impressive right-banker is drinking extremely well but should hold for another 5+ years. I’d rate it excellent, managing a score of 90 points today.

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 10:09 am
by rooman
David

An interesting note. I have tried my small share of decent wines from the better known vintages in the 80s but generally don't look to 88 as a possible purchase. Seems it is time to start keeping an eye out for some.

Thanks
Mark

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:52 pm
by Eboracum
Canon is reputed to have gone through a bad patch in the early to mid-90s. A 1990 which I opened recently was excellent but apparently the '94 and '95 were particularly bad with off flavours suggesting hygiene problems in the winery.

From 1997 the new owners, also of Chanel, starting getting their act together and your note indicates that they were working well right from the start. Canon connoisseurs claim that they were fully back to the form of the '70s and '80s by the mid '00s.

1998 was a great right bank vintage and the left bankers have developed much better than expected at the start.