SHIRAZ MASTERCLASS IN HUNGARY - Part 1

[Attila]

SHIRAZ MASTERCLASS IN HUNGARY - Part 1

I got on the plane this year again to visit Hungary and other countries in Europe. I conducted two Shiraz tastings. This first one mainly featured older shiraz vintages. The sparkling shiraz caused a bit of controversy and a 24 years old Reynella port was a sweet finish. The event took place in my hometown of Szombathely (St.Martin) near the Austrian border in the Pincemester wine club and liquor store.


With the Shiraz enthusiasts in the Hungarian Pincemester wine club


1994 LEASINGHAM Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz
Leasingham is a long established Clare Winery. This wine was made by Ed Carr, grapes picked from the Schobers vineyard. It spent 2 years in oak and 4 years in bottle before release. Alc: 14.5% vol.

I absolutely loved the 1992 so I was looking forward to a repeat performance and I wasnÂ’t disappointed. Colour bright cherry red. Spicy morello cherries on the nose. Very rich, sweetly beautiful black cherries on the palate. Mellow and at 11 years of age, perfect drinking. Velvety with fine tannins and a dry finish. Long lasting aftertaste and beautiful acidity. Enough power and structure to carry the wine for another 8 years.

The sparkling start simply stunned the participants. When I poured the wine some people remarked that they hate sparkling reds.
No doubt this has to do with 40 years of communism and cheap red "Russian Champagne" that I myself well remember. I had to go into details regarding sparkling shiraz and I promised that by the end of this tasting the non converts too will "see the light”.

So they did, it was voted 2nd best wine at the end of the tasting.


Store manager Ramon Beke tastes Australian sparkling shiraz for the first time


1998 DE BORTOLI Yarra Valley Shiraz
De Bortoli in the Yarra, Victoria is a "young” winery established in 1987. This wine was made by Stephen Webber. Grapes picked from the Dixon creek vineyards. Matured 12 months in oak. Alc.13.5% vol.

I loved this wine on release, it was rich with superb tannins. Now a slightly different story, at 7 years of age it was passing its peak, loosing fruit.

Colour surprisingly deep dark cherry red. Gamey and aromatic on the nose. A fully mature, totally soft palate offering good quality fruit but lacking richness and complexity. Medium bodied. Quite long finish with fine acid. A good food wine but it was ten times better when it was young. Club president Sándor Baráth made the remark that “I like it still…it must have been great 3 years ago”.


1997 MOUNT PLEASANT Maurice OÂ’Shea Shiraz

Maurice OÂ’Shea founded Mount Pleasant in 1921. Since 1941 it has been owned by McWilliams. This property is among my favourites in the Hunter Vallley, New South Wales. Winemaker Phillip Ryan. Grapes picked from the Brokenback vineyard. 1997 wasnÂ’t an outstanding vintage for this classic. The wine spent 18 months in American oak. Alc: 13.5% vol.

Colour bright cherry red. Raspberries and plum on the nose with toasty oak. Good fruit intensity but quite one dimensional. Lacking richness and power. On release it was stunning. Now a simple medium bodied wine with cherry flavours and a fine long finish. "ItÂ’s no use that you talked this wine up in your introduction because it doesnÂ’t deliver." remarked Cila. Fair comment!


1996 PENFOLDS St.Henri Shiraz 1996

Everyone knows about Penfolds. Founded in 1844 it is today the great bastion of Southcorp. The first St.Henri was produced in 1957, one year after the Hungarian uprising against Soviet style communism. St.Henri is an unique style among the Penfolds prestige wines as it is never matured in new oak. Personally I donÂ’t prefer the St.Henri style but this vintage that I sourced from Adair was rather good. Winemaker John Duval. Grapes were picked from Barossa, McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills. The wine spent 12 months in old oak. Alc:14% vol.

Colour of dark cherry red. Plums, coffee and aromatic cherries on the nose. Beautiful ripe fruit on the palate. Impeccably balanced lovely wine. Finishes savoury and dry. Fine tannins. Quite a good grip. Drinking nicely already, it will peak in 6 years time. Everyone noticed its high class. "Aristocratic and outstanding Australian Shiraz. I love it” noted Ferenc Karvalits.

This wine was voted the 3rd best wine tonight.


1995 EDWARDS & CHAFFEY Shiraz

In the old days the winery was called "Seaview”, established in 1850 in the McLaren Vale. Opposite style to the Penfolds, this wine was new oak matured. Also owned by Southcorp, winemaker Fiona Donald made this wine beautifully. Grapes picked from (what I believe it’s called today) the 353 vineyard block. This Shiraz spent 15 months in new French barriques. Alc:13% vol.

Colour cherry red. Mulberries and plum on the nose. Perfectly mature, soft and round palate. Lovely fruit flavours. Absolutely at its peak. A ripe, ready and pleasant wine. Sándor noted that he really liked this example of Australian Shiraz as "This is European style winemaking. I can appreciate that. Very well balanced, the oak is not overpowering.” His enthusiasm wasn’t shared by the others who found the wine a little boring after the St Henri.


1993 BAILEYÂ’S 1920Â’s Block Shiraz

A Glenrowan legend, Bailey’s was established as "Bundarra” in 1870. This family owned winery now belongs to Beringer-Blass. Winemaker Allan Hart created a rather unusual wine. Grapes picked from the vineyard planted in 1920 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the winery. Alc:13.5% vol.

Colour cherry red with bricking. Unusual bitter almonds and walnut on the nose. Halliday mentioned that he too found this wine unusual but good nevertheless. A medium bodied and full flavoured shiraz with firm tannins. At 12 years old showing lovely aged leather characteristics. Will keep for 2 more years. While many found this red a bit "too unusual”, Ramon Beke was a fan. "Well, it’s unique and authentic, and that’s quite an achievement in today’s wine world”.


"I need to get used to this style" commented Cila


1992 MIRANDA Rovalley Ridge Show Reserve Old Vine Shiraz

This old Barossa property was established in 1919. You may not think of Miranda much nowadays, but this release was excellent. Winemaker David Norman. Grapes were picked from 80 years old, knee high bush vines. The wine matured for more than 12 months in oak. Alc:13% vol.

Colour cherry red with bricking. Morello cherries on the nose. Excellent and concentrated palate with rich shiraz flavours and dusty oak. Superb balance. At its absolute peak now but due to the perfect structure will hold for 5 years. Surprisingly good wine. I really enjoyed it. Csaba Oroszy made it his choice tonight: "Ah, excellent character and maturity. Lovely old wine. That’s how I imagine aged shiraz.”


The three best wines on the night


2003 SCHWARZ WINE COMPANY Nitschke Block Shiraz

This Barossa brand was established in 2000 by Jason Schwarz. The first vintage was the 2001. The following vintage received 96 points from Parker and this 2003 release simply stunned everyone! The clear No.1 choice for me and most of the people tonight. Grapes picked from the 4 acre Nitschke block planted with shiraz in 1969. The wine was made at the Spinifex winery with the help of Peter Schell. Matured in French oak for 18 months. Only 90 cases or 1080 bottles were made. Nearly impossible to find, I prize my last bottle in the cellar. I would like to thank Adair and Mark Wickman who showed me the way and made the encounter with this wine possible. Alc: 15% vol.

Simply amazing. Beautiful fresh dark cherry red colour. Hugely aromatic nose and a superbly rich, fruit packed palate. Seductive, decadent and tempting. I do not wish to repeat myself so read my full tasting notes here I wrote earlier on the forum: http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=2613

On this occasion not surprisingly, it captivated everyone. Many found it "sexy” or "sensual”. Others who do not like Parker commented "I see why he liked it. It has too much of everything, richness, alcohol and it is practically (a very nice) fruit bomb. For an American, a Pamela Anderson type of wine.”

Pamela Anderson or not, we all loved it. Absolutely great drinking now. In fact, I wouldnÂ’t cellar it for more than 6 years.


Holding a bottle of great Australian wine


1981 REYNELLA Shiraz Vintage Port: bottle no.14527

Founded in 1838 by John Reynell as "Chateau Reynella" in the McLaren Vale. Australia’s first official winery, their first vintage was in 1842. Today the winery is called "Reynell” and is owned by the BRL Hardy giant. Winemaker Stephen Pannel. The wine spent 1 year in American oak then 5 years in bottle before release. It’s made of Shiraz. Alc: 20% vol.

This 24 years old port was the grand finale although people were still talking about the SWC shiraz well after I poured it. Colour burgundy red with caramel on the rim. Reserved nose of brandied cherries. Lovely but a touch too much sweetness on the palate. Good ripe fruit but quite one dimensional, lacking complexity. Not enough nuttiness in the aftertaste and there is strong brandy spirit on the finish. A good wine nevertheless, quite old fashioned. Good drinking now, will peak in 10 years time.

Cheers,
Attila

Date: May 30 2005

[jayhawker]

Attila,

Thanks for the interesting read! You sold me on the Schwarz. Does it make it to the U.S.?

[Guest]

Apparently it does.
Still, it will be hard to find. It may also be USD 120.
Mind you, I think it's worth it for it's decadence alone.
Cheers,
Attila

[KMP]

The wine is handled in the USA by Kysela Pere et Fils and they list it for about $40USD/bt. See here. Whether it is still available retail is anyone's guess, but the production is so small I think it will be hard to find.

Mike

[707]

I think Auswine may have the only stock of Schwarz available here in Australia. I bought the 2003 Shiraz and the 2003 Grenache, both excellent wines.

Schwarz is yet another tiny star from the Barossa along with guys like Kalleske, Glaymond, Dutschke & Massena as well as the bigger Kaesler. I'm loving their wines.

I've got a bead on another tiny producer that I'll reveal if the sample bottle stacks up well which I believe it will, stay tuned!

[Guest]

Mike,

Thank you for the info. I emailed Kysela Pere et Fils to see if they could help.

[KMP]

Mike,

Thank you for the info. I emailed Kysela Pere et Fils to see if they could help.

It might be better to phone them. I've emailed them in the past about other wines and they have not replied.

Mike

[fred]

Attila,

Although de bortoli Yarra vineyards date only from 1987 under current ownership, they include Graemem Millar's Chateau Yarrinya which was purchased by them. Accordingly the vines are much older than that for shiraz and CS anyway.

Ch Yarrinya made a few brilliant wines (they also won at least 1 Jimmy Watson for what that is worth) but some real duds as well.

At least 1 early 80s shiraz was far better than the St Henri of that year and ranked right up with all but the greatest St Henris.

Since de Bortolis took over the quality has been stabilised - eliminating the troughs - but alas, also the peaks!

The Yarra Valley straight reds under the de Bortoli label are good honest value wines well priced but lacking that something special....

fred

[Attila]

Thanks Fred for the very interesting addition of the Yarrinya story to the De Bortoli's. I'm actually thinking about trying the Yarra Valley reserve shiraz from them.
Any thoughts, notes on those?
Attila

[markg]

Sounds like a great evening Attila.

I agree with you on the 1994 Leasingham. I really liked it at a dinner we had here in Adelaide a few months back. Prompted me to get some more as it also happens to be my sons birth year, giving me ample excuses each year to drink some.