Domaine Morey Coffinet tasting (Burgundy)

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

The inimitable John Jens (JJ) at Lamont's Cottesloe (Perth) runs what he claims to be the most comprehensive tasting program in Australia (and he may well be right!). This was one of a mini-series of Burgundy tastings he is running in January.

Domaine Morey Coffinet is one of a number of producers in the Chassagne Montrachet area of Burgundy. We tasted 14 wines, ranging from village and lieu-dit to premier crus (and a Grand Cru to finish).

I will admit that I am a relatively recent convert to Burgundy, and I have a lot to learn. More importantly, I am aware that my tasting notes are written in an analytical style (colour, aroma, palate), and this may appear simple to those more knowledgeable of the subtleties of Burgundy (and perhaps European wine generally). Feel free to stop reading if this is the case for you.

First, the whites:

Domaine Morey Coffinet Ladoix 2022: Pale yellow /lemon in the glass. On the nose, there’s tropical fruits alongside the expected stone fruits. There’s also some leesy and sulphide elements to the nose. The palate shows more peach fruits, with a creamy texture and a little oak-derived tannic grip. Medium length.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet 2022: Pale yellow /lemon. Quite a perfumed nose, and with clarity of fruit. There’s stone fruits, mainly peach and apricot, and some white flowers. The palate is round, with gentle stone fruit flavours, and toastier oak than the previous wine.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet 2021: Yellow incolour. A muted nose, with savoury oak dominating slightly. The fruits come out more on the palate, which shows some creamy texture. A little unbalanced compared to the 2022.

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘Les Houilleres’ 2021: Lemon colour. A good balance of stone fruits and oak on the nose – harmonious. The palate is similar to the nose, but a little more intense. Slightly creamy texture and good length.

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘Les Houilleres’ 2022: Lemon colour and quite clear in the glass. The nose is clean with more citrus than stone fruits, white flowers, and modest oak apparent. The palate is soft and gentle, with the fruits dominating any oak influence. This build in the glass with a little time and air.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru ‘En Cailleret’ 2022: Pale to medium colour, but quite vivid or intense. Stone fruits, especially apricot skin, and white flowers on the nose. The palate is also peach and apricot skin, savoury oak, and cleansing acidity. Good length and very well balanced. My favourite white of the tasting.

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘La Romanee’ 2022: Similar colour to the En Cailleret. Similar nose to the En Cailleret also, but heavier on the oak. The palate reflects this, with some tannic grip. Good length.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’ 2020: Pale yellow. White flowers, citrus and stone fruits on the nose, with some struck match, and peach / apricot skins. The palate is more savoury and round, with yellow peach, nectarine and apricot. The wine is comparatively richer than the previous wines, with my only quibble being a slightly short finish.

And next, the reds:

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘Les Chaumes’ 2022: Garnet colour. Dark cherries on the nose, with cedary oak, five spice and star anise. A fruit dominant palate, with sour cherry, and a textural / satin feel. Good length. I felt this needed more time in the bottle to show it’s best – so I bought some.

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘Les Chaumes’ 2021: Garnet colour. I was a bit disappointed with this in comparison to the 2022. Slight rubber hose on the nose and the fruit was diminished. Similarly for the palate – fruit was there but difficult to ascertain, and the tannins were drying. It also finished short, and I suspect this was not a representative bottle.

Domaine Morey Coffinet ‘Les Chaumes’ 2020: Garnet bordering on ruby in colour. Dark cherry on the nose, showing signs of development, with anise and five spice. More cherries on the palate, with fine but grippy tannins and good supporting acid. Reasonable length too. Another good Les Chaumes which may also reward a little more time.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’ 2022: Garnet bordering on ruby in colour. Cherries, spices and cedary oak on the nose. A stalky palate, with green tannins, and prominent acid. Medium length.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’ 2021: Garnet, quite pale in the glass and a little cloudy. Fruit took a back seat here, with earthiness (a friend referred to ‘wet tilled soil’) and some herbaceousness. Modest length.

Domaine Morey Coffinet Corton-Perrieres Grand Cru 2020: Garnet bordering on ruby in colour. Fruit forward, almost perfumed, with five spice and no sign of whole bunches (stalkiness). Rich dark fruits on the palate, with slippery glycerols and slightly drying tannins. Perfectly balanced and excellent length. My favourite red of the tasting.

Thanks to JJ and the team at Lamont’s for an informative and educational tasting. A few of these wines are following me home.

Cheers
Allan