Grand Cru Tasting Group – Cabernet and Blends 2015

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

This month’s tasting was a horizontal – wines from one vintage. We chose to look at Cabernet Sauvignon, or blends where Cabernet Sauvignon exceeded 50%, from the 2015 vintage. At seven years of age, the wines could potentially show some development along with primary characteristics, and the tasting promised to be an interesting one.

Normally we taste blind, from youngest to oldest – not possible on this occasion, so we just tasted blind, with wines picked at random to make up the flights. This led to discussion on each wine as to whether it might be a straight cabernet or a blend, and the usual old world vs new world debate.

And so, to the wines:

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot (Margaret River, WA): This is the entry level blend from Woodlands. Deep ruby colour. Lots on the nose: blackcurrant, mint or eucalypt, graphite, black olives, dried herbs, green capsicum, cassis, cigars and mocha. The palate shows more black fruits (a little tart). Tannins are noticeable, while the acid is moderate and the wine finishes a little short.

Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River, WA): Similar colour to the previous wine (not a surprise). There’s some leafiness on the nose, followed by mocha, cassis, graphite and quite dark fruits. The palate shows differently, with red fruits dominating. There’s fine but grippy tannins, reasonable acid and medium to long finish.

Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon (Great Southern WA): A bright nose, with raspberry, chocolate milkshake (Coco Pops?), graphite dried apricot (!) and a touch of smokiness. The palate has more graphite, malt, and soft fruits (both dark and red) – purity of fruit was noted, and it washed across the palate. Tannins are integrated, and the wine has medium length, although the acid fades before the fruit does.

Parker 95 Block (Coonawarra SA): 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot. Deeper colour than the previous wines. The nose is earthy and ferrous, with bush smoke, tinned peas, and developing dark fruits. The palate shows dusty tannins, tobacco, and some mocha – quite a savoury palate. Good acid and tannins, and a longer finish than the previous wines. Slight alcoholic heat, but overall, this is well balanced, complex and has a richer mouthfeel. Well regarded by the group.

Yalumba Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra SA): Slightly tawny in colour. A developed nose, with red and dark fruits, menthol / pine, tobacco and dark cherry. Tannins are prominent while the acid is slightly lacking. Black fruits / berry and dark chocolate on the palate. It’s reasonably balanced, but the finish is tannin-driven.

Chateau Haut Laulion Bordeaux Superiore (Bordeaux France): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Also tawny in colour. There’s some menthol on the nose initially, followed by developed fruits, and an assortment of aromas – vanilla, peach or nectarine (not what I was expecting!), currants, thyme and a touch of earthiness. The palate continues the earthiness (even gravel), with only moderate acid. Above all the wine was soft and undemanding, short to medium finish and a touch of greenness (Cabernet Franc?).

Heydon Estate W.G. Grace Cabernet Sauvignon (Willyabrup, Margaret River, WA): Heydon Estate has been sold and is now Montague Estate, and it will be interesting to see if there are significant changes in the wines over time. The nose is initially savoury, with earthiness, leather, and pepper, followed by menthol, mocha and sarsaparilla. The palate shows more cola, dark fruits and high cocoa chocolate. Tannins are chalky and aid provides freshness. It’s balanced, with good mouthfeel and structure, and should continue to age well. Highly regarded by the group.

Grosset Gaia (Clare Valley, SA): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The nose was initially a little muted and reductive but opened up to reveal mint and dark plums. The palate shows Coca Cola, mocha, red and dark fruits and a little cough medicine, along with green capsicum, dried herbs and a bit of 5-spice lift. Tannins and acid are both higher than previous wines, and it was generally considered to be too young. Well regarded.

Credaro Kinship Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River, WA): Reductive nose, with egg and sulphur, followed by mocha and barley. Not a lot of fruit, although these appear on the palate (red and dark). There’s a slight medicinal note as well. Slight bitterness on the medium to long finish. Tannins are well integrated.

Kosovich Cabernet Malbec (Pemberton, WA): The nose was initially muted, despite double decanting 4 hours before tasting. There’s black and red fruits on the nose, some violets and smoked meats. The palate is soft (moderate acid), and tannins are integrated. It was described as ‘pretty’ with raspberry and strawberry-filled dark chocolates. The palate was a lot more expressive than the nose, and the wine opened up further over the next 2 hours.

Wine of the night was the Heydon Estate W.G. Grace Cabernet Sauvignon. It probably wasn’t a surprise that a WA wine took out the tasting (6/10 were WA wines). The SA wines showed well, with the Parker 95 Block being a close runner-up, and the Grosset Gaia probably third placed.

Thanks to those who joined us on the night, for their comments and descriptions.

Cheers
Allan