The Auswine Forum

Attended a wonderful horizontal of the simply magnificent 1996 vintage last night. As these wines approach their eighth birthday, most are starting to blossom a little, giving glimpses of their full potential, which won't be achieved for at least another five years in all but a few cases.
My summary of the evening is simply that I am now firmly convinced that this vintage in South Oz is unrivalled during the last decade of the 20th century. 1998 and 1990 come close, but can't match 96 for potential longevity, varietal definition and consistency across the major regions.
Even the WA and Victorian wines were showing well, despite a reportedly disasterous vintage in many regions of the latter State. There were a couple of NSW and Tassie wines on show, but as usual, I didn't bother with them.
My top ten for the evening were all superb, but I should mention that only two of the 20 wines I tried were not up to scratch, IMO. Another strong pointer to the consistency of the vintage.
1996 was a little cooler than the 98 and 90 vintages, and produced wines of slightly better definition and structure, if not the outrageuos up-front fruit of, say, the 98 vintage.
Coonawarra produced some absolute stunners, and IMO, this area graduates as dux of 96. Only the Parker 1st growth was a disappointment from here.
The Barossa and McLaren vale also shone, the shiraz from here really showing class and magnificent quality but restrained fruit. No hot alcohol in these wines.
Leasingham's Bin 61 was undoubtedly the suprise of the night, an amazing value that is only just starting to drink in its prime. Oh, if only I had had the sense to buy a palatte or two!!
Picking the WOTN was indeed a difficult task, but I went for the Pepper Tree reserve cab, just shading out the Grange. As expected in a non-blind tasting, however, the Grange was predictably the common WOTN choice.
FWIW, here is my list of the top ten from my notes, though I didn't really get a good feel as to other opinions other than the Grange.

1. Pepper Tree Reserve Cab...98pts 2008-2018
2. Grange shiraz....................98pts 2010-2030+
3. Dead Arm shiraz................96pts 2006-2016
4. Penfolds Bin 707................96pts 2008-2020+
5. Wynns John Riddoch...........95pts 2016-2025+
6. Wirra Wirra RSW shiraz.......95pts now-2016
7. E and E Black Pepper..........94pts 2006-2016
8. Cullens Cab-merlot.............94pts 2008-2020
9. Petaluma Coonawarra.........93pts 2006-2016
10.Rosemount Balmoral...........93pts 2016-2020+

I scored the Bin 61 at 93 pts as well, and it sold for around $15 at release!! Others rated the wine even higher than I, a real suprise packet.

The Pepper Tree is a masterpiece, and will be an absolute treat in another 5 years or so. The Grange, IMO, is the best release to date, and is indeed a tribute to the quality of wine we can produce in this country.

Aussie John

Refreshing and interesting post.

I am guilty of having no Coonawarra cabernet in my cellar from 96. At the time, I was probably putting my funds aside for the, shortly to be released, vintage of the century!

As my palate evolves, it is your descritpion of the 96 vintage, that I yearn for.

Aussie John

Great post thanks for the info. Could you let us know the other 10? No scores etc just what they were.

I have a stack of 1996 Coonawarra so am delighted with your conclusions, also have a lot of Barossa 1996's. I share your opinion that they have more structure and potential for longevity than the 1998's.

Thanks again

Martin

AJ,

Good post. Agree that 96 is a terrific vintage and I bought lots. The elderton is another one thats in the smae boat as the Leasingham, great value and performing well.

You state the 96 Balmoral has a drinking window of 2016 -2020+ Is this a typo? Did you mean 2006?

Rosemont states 2002 - 2015 and will be fully mature by 2020. My own forcast as 2004 to 2012 which means I can have a couple a year.

Torb,
You are quite correct. Typo- should read 2006-2020

Didn't have the Elderton there, but I agree with you that it is a ripper, with plenty of life ahead of it.

Cheers, AJ.

FWIW, these were the other wines I tried. There were 25 wines showed, but I couldn't go the distance!! (I actually extended my normal limit of 12 wines to the 20 described, such was the quality of the tasting)

Leasingham Bin 61 shiraz............... 93points now-2010
Orlando Jacaranda Ridge.................93points 2006-2015+
Veritas Bulls Blood pressings...........91points 2006-2016
Houghton Crofters Cab-merlot..........90points now-2009
Bindi pinot noir................................89points now-2006
Mt Langi Ghiran shiraz......................88points now-2008
Mount Mary Quintets.........................87points 2006-2010+
Penfolds Bin 389..............................87points 2008-2018
Plantaganet shiraz............................86points now-2006
Parker Terra Rossa First Growth........83points now-2008

There was also a Cyril Henschke floating around, but it displayed clear TCA characteristics, and I didn't rate it.
I have had better bottles of the Jacaranda Ridge, which is amongst my favourite wines of the vintage. I did, however, taste it straight after the unbelievable Pepper Tree, and it may have suffered in this direct comparison.
Both the Plantaganet and Parker were disappointing efforts from wineries that usually deliver far more.
The Bindi is as good an Oz pinot as I have yet come across, which is reflected in my highest score for an Oz pinot to date.
The veritas was an interesting wine, beautifully textured. Those that I spoke to rated it higher than me.

I am informed that WOTN was voted thus: (unfortunately, I had to leave early, due to a hideously early flight the next day)

17 Penfold's Grange
5 Pepper Tree Reserve Cabernet
1 Penfold's 707
1 Cullen's Cab Merlot
1 E and E Black Pepper
1 Mount Mary Quintets (the Emperor's new clothes are alive and well)

Cheers, AJ.

Hiya Aussie John,

Nice to see that the 96's are holding up so well. It's our anniversary wine, and we have been stocking up on them!!

Co-incidentally, we enjoyed the 96 Jac Ridge last night, and am quite surprised it fared so poorly in your tasting. Also makes me want to track down a 96 Pepper Tree Reserve Cab!

Anyways, inky dark purple in colour, and a joy to decant such a wine, as the deep colour, and whiff of fruit lets you know you are in for something special. Lushious ripe blackcurrants on the nose, with cedary oak, and savoury pencil shavings. Excellent mouthfeel, with rich sweet berry fruit, savoury cedary oak, lovely fine tannins, with flavours that last and last. A real joy! Should last for years to come.

Cheers,

Monghead.

Aussie John,

Great note. Just wondering if the 98 Pepper Tree Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is as good as the 96 Pepper Tree Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cheers,
Steve

hi Steve,
I'm not AJ. I havent tasted the 96. The 1998 is a technically well made wine without being exciting. I borrowed a phrase fr TORB - "a crowd pleaser"
Their 2000 JWT winner is hopelessly disapointing. Elegant to some but I find it austere, underweight with high tone of leafiness.

hi aussie john,

where do you think the 96 thomas hardy cab will stand compared to your panel of wines tasted?

cheers
eddie

Hey monghead.....
I wouldn't say 93 points is a disappointing result!!!! The 96 Jac is a beauty, but there is always a little bottle variation with wines older than about 5 years, and this is magnified as they get older.
I usually rate the Jac around 95 poiunts, and I drink it a lot...a great red at an affordable price!! Looking forward to getting hold of some 98.

I am not really "au fait" with the Pepper Tree wines, and my one brush with the 98 suggested a very good wine. I was told that they take a good 5-7 years to come around, which makes the JWT for the 2000 seem a little strange. The wine served the other night was truly monumental, and a great suprise to many who had failed to be impressed with the wine in its younger days.

Ed,
Thomas Hardy Cab has often been very disappointing to me....I have some of the 93 and 94 somewhere in the cellar, having seen both these two or three years ago, I won't open another before 2010 in the hope they improve. But I have not had the 96, and for all I know this may be a great wine.
Another great 96 cab is the Sepplet's Dorrien, but that also shouldn't be approached for at least another five years.