Recent NZ Trip

[JDSJDS]

I thought these recent impressions of a trip to NZ in December 2011 might be of interest to a few people on this board. I posted this earlier on a small regional wine board.

Just a few mainly wine-related impressions from a recent trip to New Zealand. First wine stop was the Waipara region, just north of Christchurch. The presence of limestone in many vineyards is interesting. Only visited two wineries, as we were just passing through. Pegasus Bay has lovely grounds, and their wines were outstanding as well. Greystone was the other visit, and their aromatic whites were very nice, especially the Greystone Reisling 2010, which was a world class, off dry riesling. Wonderful stuff, and well priced (late 20s I think).

Marlborough was the next wine stop, after swimming with seals in Kaikoura and hiking around the peninsula. We rented bikes and cycled around the wineries around Renwick. It’s the second times I’ve biked here, as many good wineries are within about a 4-5 kilometer range. Again, we were most impressed by many rieslings here (a theme that will be repeated). The Forrest Rieslings were particularly tasty, as were Framingham wines. Seresin had a great range, as did Cloudy Bay, whose sparkling wines were very nice, and the Te Koko (barrel fermented sauvingnon blanc) interesting as always. Staete Landt also had an interest partially oaked SB. The cellar doors were a bit hit and miss here, with many good wineries only pouring a small number of wines (e.g., Saint Clair, Fromm), but that’s what happens sometimes with no or few tasting room fees. No doubt appointments might have helped, but we weren’t interested in that on this trip. I didn’t visit, but drank a few bottles of the Deutz sparkling wine – the basic NV cuvee – and it was a wonderful sparkling wine that was an incredible bargain (usually on sale for $20 NZD (about $16 CDN). There are some nice sparkling wines being made in NZ.

Speaking of which, Central Otago was the next wine stop, and Quartz Reef made excellent sparkling wines, and one of the strongest pinots from 2010 that we tasted. Wooing Tree also had some nice pinots, as did Peregrin and Mt Difficulty. Felton Road only had four wines for tasting, which was unfortunate, but they were all very solid at least (I love their Rieslings). Again, it was the Rieslings in this region that I thought were the best wines, even more so than the pinots. There are nice pinots here, but very few outstanding ones. The basic Rockburn was very good, but the best pinot we had was the ’12 Barrels’ reserve wine from them (2008, I think). This was a world class pinot, and the $85 price tag was the only thing that stopped me grabbing a bottle (though I’m still torn).

After lots of hiking around the West Coast of the South island, we headed up to the North Island for a quick visit. Martinborough is still my favourite pinot region in NZ, and we tasted some very nice wines there. Nice cellar door visits were had at Ata Rangi, Schubert, Te Kairanga, Palliser and Martinborough Vineyard. Again, we rented bikes and cycled around to all the wineries. Oh, a meal at Logan Brown in Wellington was outstanding, our best of the trip, and we really enjoyed the Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay (which is available here in BC) with our meal.

Hawkes Bay was the last region visited. My favourite region in NZ by far, as I love the Bordeaux blends from this area. Te Mata wasn’t pouring anything too interesting, other than the Elston chardonnay, which is always a fine drink, but Craggy Range had a better selection of well made wines. Unison is always my favourite cellar door in this region, as it is very down to earth, and their wines are always outstanding from top to bottom. The 2007 Unison Selection was a real winner, one of the wines of the trip. Alpha Domus can be hit and miss, I think, but their top wine, the 2007 Aviator, was another outstanding Bordeaux blend. Trinity Hill wines are always very well done, as are Church Road. The latter’s reserve wines are often on sale in NZ supermarkets, and offer outstanding value. Esk Valley happened to have their 2006 Reserve Merlot//Marbec/Cabernet open, and it’s always a great wine. Their ‘basic’ red blend is usually outstanding QRP too. Had very nice tapas at Delisiosa's in Havelock North.

In terms of general impressions, the quality of NZ wines continues to increase and impress. The one wine I can’t get excited about is Pinot Gris, which it seems everybody is growing and seems to be the media darling right now. Too simple and often very confected. But their Rieslings don’t seem to get the attention they deserve, especially the off dry and sweet examples (many dry styles were a little too austere). The pinots are perhaps a little too praised as well, but maybe that’s just me. Overall, their wines put BC and ON (in Canada) to shame, which is sad. And the value these wines offer can be excellent, especially when you add in the approximately 20% exchange rate. Travel costs in NZ continue to rise, and that’s a bit of a shame, but it’s still one of the most beautiful places on earth, filled with absolutely wonderful people (and wines). Every wine fanatic should go there at least once, there is such an interesting variety of wine regions and wines grown there, from chardonnay to riesling, pinot to merlot, syrah and cabernet!

[Wizz]

Speaking of which, Central Otago was the next wine stop, and Quartz Reef made excellent sparkling wines, and one of the strongest pinots from 2010 that we tasted. Wooing Tree also had some nice pinots, as did Peregrin and Mt Difficulty. Felton Road only had four wines for tasting, which was unfortunate, but they were all very solid at least (I love their Rieslings). Again, it was the Rieslings in this region that I thought were the best wines, even more so than the pinots. There are nice pinots here, but very few outstanding ones. The basic Rockburn was very good, but the best pinot we had was the ’12 Barrels’ reserve wine from them (2008, I think). This was a world class pinot, and the $85 price tag was the only thing that stopped me grabbing a bottle (though I’m still torn).

We think so too

[TiggerK]

Heading up to COtago today (yes up), on a bit of a Riesling and Pinot mission now that family commitments are over! Bring it all on I say. Had some good wines so far but yet to be wowed by a Riesling, mainly because the majority here are off-dry and I don't get enough cleansing acidity on the finish. Easy to drink yes, good flavours, but a touch sugary on the finish for my taste. the greystone and doctors (Forrest) were indeed best so far though. Weather looking good, just need to shake the sore throat! Always happens on holiday doesn't it.... Cheers.

First stops in Q'Town - fergburger and winetastes. Yum.

[JDSJDS]

I'm used to german rieslings, so off dry styles are what I gravitate towards. I've noticed Aussie imbibers tend to gravitate towards dryer styles of riesling, as that's what are usually found there (e.g., Clare). Have fun in Central Otago!

[Craig(NZ)]

First stops in Q'Town - fergburger and winetastes. Yum.

And Patagonias Icecream

Nice write up. Thanks. looks like you chose your visits well. Timing is important at wineries. At Te Mata in March they usually have a very full range to taste including Coleraine but by the end of the year wines out of stock or close to it so no need to open as many i would say. Timing is also important at Craggy. If you arrive when there has been some special visitor/s you usually have piles open but on the flipside sometimes the choices are pretty ho hum

[Wizz]

Good plan for QT - Fergs, Patagonias, Winetastes. Goign p to QT - are you in Dunedin (or....Invercargill...)?

Central IMO doesnt do such a good line in dry riesling, the same way Clare and Eden just cant do off-dry very well. Great off dry's though in Central, up there with the best Waipara has to offer (disclaimer - vested interest on my part).

Cheers

Andrew

[JDSJDS]

Central IMO doesnt do such a good line in dry riesling, the same way Clare and Eden just cant do off-dry very well. Great off dry's though in Central, up there with the best Waipara has to offer

Definitely agree. I wonder if this is an example of terrior, where climate and other variables mean off dry rieslings are not optimal in the Clare and Eden Valleys, or whether it is mainly a question of taste and demand (i.e., the local desire for dry rieslings)? Probably a combination of both.

I did find it interesting that in CO, botrytis was almost non-existent, so the off dry styles were simply a reflection of stopping fermentation earlier. You'd think that the lack of botrytis would limit complexity, but it didn't seem to be a big issue (though it was noticable if you were looking for it). And you'd think that if they can do that in CO (i.e., stop fermations earlier), then they could do that in SA as well, but they don't seem to. The Cordon Cut technique seems to be the method of choice to creat dessert styles in the Clare, at least.

[TiggerK]

Yes invercargill ! In q'town now, phew! A few wine people have commented that CO Rieslings are heading toward drier styles, interesting... Off to try a bunch today, plus an auburn tasting with winemaker tomorrow, nice. Will report back as I go.... Cheers

[Loztralia]

I had a brief stop at some Hawke's Bay wineries last month, and while I was blown away by the restaurant and setting at Craggy Range (and the all-round pleasantness of everyone I encountered) I was a little disappointed that both they and Te Mata weren't tasting anything like their full range of wines. I don't think this can be because everything else has sold out (they still had various other wines for sale) but having travelled some distance to get there it would have been nice to have been offered the chance to taste something close to the full range - even at a price.

[JDSJDS]

I had a brief stop at some Hawke's Bay wineries last month, and while I was blown away by the restaurant and setting at Craggy Range (and the all-round pleasantness of everyone I encountered) I was a little disappointed that both they and Te Mata weren't tasting anything like their full range of wines. I don't think this can be because everything else has sold out (they still had various other wines for sale) but having travelled some distance to get there it would have been nice to have been offered the chance to taste something close to the full range - even at a price.

I agree, it would be a great option to have. But there is always the opportunity to make an appointment, and that often relates to more bottles being made available.

[Craig(NZ)]

I had a brief stop at some Hawke's Bay wineries last month, and while I was blown away by the restaurant and setting at Craggy Range (and the all-round pleasantness of everyone I encountered) I was a little disappointed that both they and Te Mata weren't tasting anything like their full range of wines. I don't think this can be because everything else has sold out (they still had various other wines for sale) but having travelled some distance to get there it would have been nice to have been offered the chance to taste something close to the full range - even at a price.

I have to agree here. Its a shame Coleraine isnt available for tasting more often and yes even at a price, maybe in weekends etc

In March they more often than not have it available free to taste which is a nice touch on a busy month

I found the same in the Barossa (years ago). Going to famous wineries and most with no chance to try the more famous wines

[Wizz]

Central IMO doesnt do such a good line in dry riesling, the same way Clare and Eden just cant do off-dry very well. Great off dry's though in Central, up there with the best Waipara has to offer

Definitely agree. I wonder if this is an example of terrior, where climate and other variables mean off dry rieslings are not optimal in the Clare and Eden Valleys, or whether it is mainly a question of taste and demand (i.e., the local desire for dry rieslings)? Probably a combination of both.

I did find it interesting that in CO, botrytis was almost non-existent, so the off dry styles were simply a reflection of stopping fermentation earlier. You'd think that the lack of botrytis would limit complexity, but it didn't seem to be a big issue (though it was noticable if you were looking for it). And you'd think that if they can do that in CO (i.e., stop fermations earlier), then they could do that in SA as well, but they don't seem to. The Cordon Cut technique seems to be the method of choice to creat dessert styles in the Clare, at least.

There's a bit of planing ahead for off dry styles - you need to get the ripeness levels and flavours you want i nthe vineyard to go with the degree of off dry you want to make. There is botrytis around in Central - you just have to find the right site, and have the picking crews take the bot affected fruit as well as the clean stuff.

Flavours and structures are different in Central vs Clare/Eden, bear in mind its 45 degrees south, and even Tassie is only 42 south. Acids are fine, more hang time for the same ripeness so flavours can get into the riper spectrum as well.

Cheers

Andrew

[Mark Carrington]

Interesting: useful report. A return trip planned for 12 months time.
IIRC, full range was available wherever we visited ( things may have changed during past 4 years) including Fromm & Te Mata. Didn't reach Waipara (Pegasus would be a must) & Martinborough was 'shut' when we arrived on a Monday afternoon. (Then again, the whole country seems to be closed on a Monday!!)
Return trip to Central Otago will be time planned to avoid Sunday, as we discovered to our cost Felton Road does not open on that day. Favourites in the region Carrick & Bald Hills.

[Michael R]

Nice notes JDSJDS...

Tim....very keen to hear how your trip went....is a report in the pipeline?