Parker on Australia (1) - Reactions please

[Tim in Toronto]

From the latest Wine Advocate:

"The real glories [in Australian wine] are the classic old vine, South Australian cuvees of Shiraz, Grenache, and occasionally blends of those two varietals with Cabernet Sauvignon."
...

"One of the ironies about Australian wines is that the homegrown critics seem to exhibit a bias/prejudice against many of the old vine cuvees of Grenache and Shiraz because of their power and potency. This is unfortunate since nowhere else in the world can these wines be duplicated, and there seems to be considerable sentiment among the Aussie wine press that the Barossa, Eden Valley, and McLaren Vale wineries should put on the brakes, and produce wines that do little more than imitate French, Spanish or Italian efforts. This would be a disaster since no country has demonstrated the ability to compete with the great classics of France, Spain or Italy. To go against the fundamental climatic conditions that are not conducive to making elegant, finesse-styled wines is fraught with disaster, and those wineries that believe they can outperform Eurpoe in terms of finesse and elegance frequently turn out innocuous, manipulated wines with little soul or character."

Apart from the fact that he then goes on to contradict this point in his ratings, what say you all about his observation that the trend in the Australian wine press is to support and promote more European-styled offerings?

[GraemeG]

Well, there's nothing too controversial there. I think local critics probably find some of the wines RP scores highly to be unbalanced; too high in alcohol, made with over-ripe grapes, etc, but their chief concern is probably to prevent everyone in the Barossa etc. making their wines that way.

Or to rephrase, the concern is that they not change the character of the wines they already make to appease what appears to be the demand for this 'new' style of wine.

Also, makers here are satsifying a local demand as well. There's still demand for moderate-weight wines from these areas. Locally, there's no cheap Hermitage. But wineries in the Barossa produce wines of that general style for less than $20.

And often, of course, remarks made by overseas writers need to be filtered through the prism of their own demestic market, and what's available / in demand. The view from here may be very different, and no less valid.

cheers,
Graeme

[Guest]

It's fine for people like Robert Parker to see the Australian wine industry as little more than a supplier to the great global palate. It works for him, but I don't think it works for local drinkers.

Why the hell shouldn't australian wineries make wines other than monster shiraz? Why shouldn't I be able to buy a medium-bodied cabernet blend that was grown and made right here?

The true beauty of our wine industry, and the reason we are all so blessed as wine consumers, is our ability to make fantastic wines in so many different styles. I love the fact that one day I can have a monolithic shiraz from a warm/hot climate, and the next a subtle cabernet from a nice warm vineyard in a cool part of Victoria. Then a piercing riesling, followed up by a Rutherglen muscat.

We're a huge country, with so many different climates. Robert Parker can go and get stuffed if he thinks that we should only make one style of wine in Oz.

Fair dinkum. It's like me saying that the United States should stick to what they do better than anyone else in the world - massive shopping malls, fast food chains and theme parks... and forget trying to 'emulate' the Europeans with their five-star restaurants and emphasis on fine dining.

[Yarra]

whoops, forgot to log in. That rant was mine.

[Brucer]

I tasted my first big, rich, high alcohol shiraz about 25 years ago, and just loved it. It was an Orlando Barossa Shiraz in a mixed dozen from the Wine Society. Ever since then, that is what I have been looking for. Long before Mr. Parker came along.

He tastes the best wines the world makes, and writes about them. He found that these big rich Shiraz style wines from Australia were different to all other places, and he likes them a lot. Just like I do. I find nothing wrong with that at all. He likes that style from Australia. He also likes Bordeau and Borolo and lots of different styles from other parts of the world.

Australia makes a lot of different styles of reds, as Australia is a bloody big country, with a huge range of climates. Maybe he thinks that the cooler climate wines from Australia are not as good as the cooler climate wines from another country, whereas no one else can make the big, rich, ripe styles we can make, and do make. Sure some winemakers are going to try to make something to satisfy his style for our wines, when they shouldnt, and stuff it up.......... which happens a fair bit, but a good well made 15-16% wine is fine by me.

Just open an 02 Bullers Calliope Shiraz or a 01 Greenock Creek Apricot Block or a Three Rivers to see that it can be done, and is done.

[Martin C]

AUS should make the most out they have. Dry grown, O'Vines blessed by perfect vintage condition. All other regions are envious of the resources available and climatic condition to ripen each year with very little impact on variation.

Why try to immitate Bordeaux, Rhone etc.?(unless you are living in Hunter Valley)

[Doc Rock]

Based on some postings Mr. Parker has made on his (actually Mark Squires') BB (eRobertParker.com), his love affair with big Australian Shiraz is only growing deeper. These wines have piqued his interest.

Prediction: he'll start reviewing Australian Shiraz with no US distribution (read Wendouree).

Note well that Mr. Parker has, over the years, handed the tasting and reviewing of lighter-bodied red wines to others (Pierre Rovani for Burgundy and Oregon/Wash State Pinots, and Daniel Thomases for Italian wines).

Note also that he states in the latest The Wine Advocate (#155) that he included reviews of only about 30% of the Australian wines he tasted. He found the other 70% not to his liking, mainly because he finds them either over-acidified or tasting too much of American oak or both.

It will be interesting to watch how many more Australian winemakers adapt their wines to Mr. Parker's palate.

[ChrisH]

Agree totally with Graeme and Yarra.

Bruce and Martin - you have a right to like big, rich warm climate shiraz as much as others of us like variety. I think you missed the point the guys were making - we don't all want to drink just this sort of wine all the time. Parker's undue influence over Bordeaux is obvious - he has influenced makers to move away from elegant styles to big styles. That is fine if that is all you want to drink, but not all of us want to do that.

The press in Oz that rail against Parker's undue influence don't want to drink the big stuff all the time either, and are concerned he is too influential.

Thank God they won't let him back in Burgundy !!!!!!

regards
Chris

[Campbell]

If Australian wine writers were arguing that we should plant more pinot in the Barossa, then Parker would have a point. If Australian wine writers were arguing that Penfolds Grange should be toned down, then he'd have two points. If Australian wine writers were arguing that Torbreck RunRig, Chris Ringland Shiraz, Saltram 8th Maker and Peter Lehmann Stonewall are anything other than great ambassadors of Australian shiraz - then he'd have three points. The fact is though that Australian wine writers, in general, are arguing none of those things - put a glass of any of those wines, from good vintages, in front of your average Australian wine writer and s/he'd sing its praises to the cows came in. Personally, I can love all those wines. Australia does that style of wine particularly well and god how I love that fact. In fact, where's the damn corkscrew, I could go one now!

All Australian wine writers are arguing, in general is a) as good as these wines are, and as much as we should be proud of them, there are other wine types of merit that can be produced in other areas of Australia that drink equally well on other nights of the week, and b) Australia is a big country, and we shouldn't try to make Barossa shiraz out of the Yarra Valley - but we should still make wine out of the Yarra (I think .

Australian drinkers, and wine writers alike, tend to love the beautifully beefy Barossan shiraz wines - because, when made well, they can be great wines, and great to have swirling around your glass. The funny thing is though - and here is the only fault in what Parker is saying - is that you can like this style of wine, and ALSO like cooler spicier styles. It's not a competition. Just look inside Red Bigot's cellar - I'll bet you'll find Veritas' busty beauties sitting somewhere close to Craiglee, and happily co-existing. On some nights (I'm guessing) he'd love nothing more than a Veritas. On other nights nothing more than a Craiglee. How easy is that?

Campbell.

[Adair]

My quick thoughts...

I believe RPjr. is right in some instances but, on the other hand, is being fooled by the style he loves in another.

I agree that Australia can make the style he loves better than anywhere else BUT... I don't believe Australia can make this "Big" style as well and in as large quantities as producers of these wines attempt. Too many producers are trying to make this style but instead make unbalanced wines. There is more to wine than ripe and intense flavours. If there was not, I would still be loaded my glass of milk with copious amounts of Milo (chocolate).

There is a window of ripeness that is optimal and too many producers are picking after this window. Unfortunately, this style has the ability to cover up these imbalances... for a while anyway. Personally, at the moment, I am enjoying red wines for their structure and quality of tannin more than power, and I am simply finding too many big Parker points to be lacking in this vital facet of wine.

Although I am not a fan enough of RPjr. to subscribe (although I believe his understanding of Bordeaux to be exceptional), I do take heart with the following comment:

Note also that he states in the latest The Wine Advocate (#155) that he included reviews of only about 30% of the Australian wines he tasted. He found the other 70% not to his liking, mainly because he finds them either over-acidified or tasting too much of American oak or both.

... although I note he does not mention tannin structure. Tannins too can be over-ripe and boring.

Lastly, to my friend Martin C re:

Why try to immitate Bordeaux, Rhone etc.?(unless you are living in Hunter Valley)

... I suspect you have not had one of the great Lindemans Hunter River Burgundies. These wines can display exactly what I am talking about... at an alcohol level that even you would enjoy.

My 1 cent,
Adair

[Guest]

Adair, I had a 1983 BIN 6600 Museum Released 2years ago and I actually enjoyed it. This is an exception, I believed not all Hunter's Shiraz will turned out this well.

[JamieBahrain]

Does anyone really know how well this style of wine will age and improve?

Time ( 10 years or so ) will tell if the Parker preferred style is best suited for our shiraz etc.

[Adair]

Adair, I had a 1983 BIN 6600 Museum Released 2years ago and I actually enjoyed it. This is an exception, I believed not all Hunter's Shiraz will turned out this well.

Yes. That is a very, very good wine. I am glad you enjoyed it. I am not surprised you did.

I had the 1965 (Bin 3110) earlier this year. 14.5% alcohol and the greatest Australian red wine I have had. Excellent fruit but its structure was so powerful yet supple. It created an absolutely amazing sensation on the palate.

Adair

[Adair]

Does anyone really know how well this style of wine will age and improve?

Time ( 10 years or so ) will tell if the Parker preferred style is best suited for our shiraz etc.

I have no doubt that the top echelon will age very, very well indeed. 20 years plus, no issue... like the 1965 HRB I mention above.

However, there will be a heap than die as fast as they were bought by Parker Point chasers. I believe it all depends on whether the fruit was picked at its optimum or whether the grapes were forced into certain flavours or styles.

Adair

[GraemeG]

Does anyone really know how well this style of wine will age and improve?

Time ( 10 years or so ) will tell if the Parker preferred style is best suited for our shiraz etc.

I have no doubt that the top echelon will age very, very well indeed. 20 years plus, no issue... like the 1965 HRB I mention above.

However, there will be a heap than die as fast as they were bought by Parker Point chasers. I believe it all depends on whether the fruit was picked at its optimum or whether the grapes were forced into certain flavours or styles.

Adair

This is getting easier to test as time goes by, of course. The first Oz wines that caught Parker's palate were 94/95 vintage Clarendon Hills wines. I've not heard too many reports on these lately - seem to recall TORB posting a not-particularly-enthusiastic note some time ago, but that's it. Anyone volunteering?

cheers,
Graeme

[Guest]

b) Australia is a big country, and we shouldn't try to make Barossa shiraz out of the Yarra Valley - but we should still make wine out of the Yarra (I think .

Having just spent a weekend in the Yarra Bloody Valley and tasted more very ordinary wines than is good for one, I am not so sure. It is better than the Southern Highlands of NSW but if the Yarra was not so close to Melbourne, I sincerely doubt there would be many wineries in business there today.

[TORB]

That last post twas I .... and dont get me started on the value - or lack there of in the Yarra.

[RogerPike]

Does anybody think that the range and diversity of varieties and styles of Australian wine has not increased exponentially in the ten years since RPJ has focussed on our big reds?

I am not suggesting cause and effect, merely asking what damage has been done?

Roger

[Kieran]

I don't know that Parker has had much effect on our vinodiversity - in the last ten years a lot of fields have changed and expanded dramatically, and I think wine is just one of many things evolving quickly. What he has done is made it economically viable for many small makers to focus on quality and make the most of our old vines, especially shiraz. Many of the bigger, more overblown wines are getting recommended heavily and being shipped to the US, so we can continue to enjoy most of the good stuff without the absurdly inflated prices.

Kieran

[Doc Rock]

I don't know that Parker has had much effect on our vinodiversity - in the last ten years a lot of fields have changed and expanded dramatically, and I think wine is just one of many things evolving quickly. What he has done is made it economically viable for many small makers to focus on quality and make the most of our old vines, especially shiraz. Many of the bigger, more overblown wines are getting recommended heavily and being shipped to the US, so we can continue to enjoy most of the good stuff without the absurdly inflated prices.

Kieran

Kieran,

Being here in The States, my concern is that Australian wine production will become bifurcated with the "big" styled wines exported to the US, Canada and the UK with the more elegant wines remaining largely in the domestic Australian market.

I'd like to have access to the "good stuff" you speak about without having to travel 10,000 miles, or, go through the hassle of overseas shipping/importing.

What's happening now is instructive. When Mr. Parker first "discovered" big Barossa Shiraz (courtesy of Dan Philips/The Grateful Palate) back in 1998 (yes, it has only been 6 years), "points chasers" quickly pushed the prices on these wines into the stratosphere. Run Rig, for example, went from less than $40 US for the first vintage (1995) to $160 US by the 1998 vintage.

That encouraged other wine makers to mimic this style resulting in more, new "big" Shiraz coming to The States. Now, those wines' prices are also being pushed to the stratosphere.

Case in point: Two Hands. The 2002/2003 offerings are highly-touted by Mr. Parker. The 2002 Bella's Garden could be had for around $35 US last year - I bought several. The 2003 (not yet reviewed by Parker) retails at about $50. I'm not buying any.

It's maddening for me to find Australian wines I like only to see the price point pushed rapidly upward. It destroys any possibility of brand loyalty and leads to what I call WADD - Wine Attention Deficit Disorder - as my buying habits in successive vintages move me to newer, pre-Parkerized producers.

Just as many small production Australian Shiraz wine makers rode the coattails of the "Great California Cult Cabernet Boom" of the mid-to-late '90s (fueled, in large part, by Mr. Parker's high ratings), they should be keeping a close eye on what has happened to most of those California Cults in the last few years...

[707]

Coupla points, or three.

I bought some of the first Clarendon Hills wines which were a revelation. The 1991 Shiraz was exceptional when young but several well cellared bottles drunk in the past few years are looking very ordinary. Now whether this is just this particular wine or a warning for the bigger styles we've seen recently, I'm not sure, time will tell.

Make no mistake, wines like Run Rig are exceptional and will age well, they have power but balance. I think you just need to pick this style of wine and not cellar the big over the top fruit styles. Think before buying to cellar.

RPJ bashing is popular. Let's not forget however the prosperity he's bought to many struggling grape growers, winemakers and whole wine communities here in Australia through his promotion (correct or otherwise) of our wines to the world.

The voracious appetite overseas buyers has also allowed a zillion new wineries to come to life to the ultimate good of us all. They wouldn't be here now making all those interesting and sought after drops if it wasn't for overseas markets.

So let's keep what RPJ says in perspective, don't get in a tizz about his points each year, make up your own mind about what to buy AND just hope RPJ doesn't give your chosen drops a big score!!

[Fatty]

b) Australia is a big country, and we shouldn't try to make Barossa shiraz out of the Yarra Valley - but we should still make wine out of the Yarra (I think .

Having just spent a weekend in the Yarra Bloody Valley and tasted more very ordinary wines than is good for one, I am not so sure. It is better than the Southern Highlands of NSW but if the Yarra was not so close to Melbourne, I sincerely doubt there would be many wineries in business there today.

A bit harsh perhaps, but most that are open are pretty ordinary I'll agree. Had a great young Yarra Yering Cab a couple of months back which reaffirmed my faith in the quality producers of the region - except as you point out - they ARE expensive.

But it does crap on Hunter Valley ...

[Guest]

Hunter style is not as bad as you all seem to think.....
The Tyrrell's vat9 is a great example of Hunter shiraz, and is nowhere near as big and bold as SA shiraz's.
Given enough bottle age(Hunter Shiraz's needs this) and time in a decanter... a recent night with friends(we all work in wine retail of some kind) that included Tintara Shiraz 96, Reynell Shiraz 96, St Halletts Blackwell 96 and a Tyrrell's vat9 Shiraz... At first the SA's where all over the vat9 in taste and on the palate, but as time progress(all wines tried throughout the night) past the 3th hour in their decanter's, thus allowing the wines to do their own talking, the vat9 came into its own and was easily decided unamiously WOTN! The vat9 also had plenty of years left in it....
Australia is a country with many different and great regions for wine so lets enjoy them all!!!

[Adair]

Yarra Valley... But it does crap on Hunter Valley ...

Hello Fatty,

With all due respect, such a comment is absolutely ludicrous.

You might be able to argue about the irregularity of great wines from the Hunter, but the greatest Hunter Shiraz when aged are simply awesome on any scale. Nothing "craps" on it. I am not saying such wines are better than great Yarra Cabernet or Pinot Noir, but a word like "crap" is not appropriate.

Also, aged Hunter Semillon, whether you like it or not, is unique and has enough critical support to refute any "crapping on" claims by Yarra Chardonnay.

I was amused to find a Jancis article in the free SMH cellaring supplement using the 1965 Hunter River Burgundy, 1984 Lovedale and 1986 Vat 1 as reasons to age wines. I reckon she has some idea as well.

You probably also have a point about the amount of crap coming out of the Hunter. I suspect this is due to too many wineries being establised for tax and tourism reasons other than vinous reasons. However, the Yarra Valley, like any region, has their share of wines not up to standard, and I presume for similar reasons.

Both Yarra Valley and the Hunter produce enough great wines to not require either to be judged to "crap on" each other.

Back to the Southern Highlands though...

Adair

[Baby Chickpea]

Coupla points, or three.

....

RPJ bashing is popular. Let's not forget however the prosperity he's bought to many struggling grape growers, winemakers and whole wine communities here in Australia through his promotion (correct or otherwise) of our wines to the world.

The voracious appetite overseas buyers has also allowed a zillion new wineries to come to life to the ultimate good of us all. They wouldn't be here now making all those interesting and sought after drops if it wasn't for overseas markets.

So let's keep what RPJ says in perspective, don't get in a tizz about his points each year, make up your own mind about what to buy AND just hope RPJ doesn't give your chosen drops a big score!!

Well said Steve! My thoughts exactly ....

[Bob]

As everyone else, I too have my opinions of Parker, and here are a few. One is that wine reviews are his business, so it is in his best interest to promote himself as the best, or even only, wine critic. Hence he is always down on 'local' wine critics, whether they are in Oz or what he calls the 'west coast wine press' in the US. Regarding diversity for OZ wines, I see Parker as writing primarily for the US east coast establishement, people who will buy the best style of wine from each terroir. They have the money to do so, and the market adjusts to meet their needs. From Oz they want big shiraz, if they want an elegant cab, their is no shortage of Bordeaux first cru, or maybe something from Napa. All of what Parker says has some effect on the rest of us; sometimes beneficial such as increasing demand and interest in wine, stimulating winemakers to make better wines, and increasing the number of wineries and competition to keep prices in check. Other times his comments drive up prices to obscene levels; the people he is really writing for don't care at all what the wine costs, as long as Parker says it is great and the scarcer the better. All of that said, I love the big wines that he promotes, so when he awards top points to a wine, if I can find it and afford it, I'll buy it. A typical love/hate relationship.

[Fatty]

Yarra Valley... But it does crap on Hunter Valley ...

Hello Fatty,

With all due respect, such a comment is absolutely ludicrous.
Adair

I was joking