Sydney Offline - Wonderful Wendouree Friday 12th September

[Adair]

Yes, I am attending with a 2003 Wendouree Shiraz plus something else.

[Polymer]

Hacker -- 91 Shiraz
Polymer -- 93 Cab Malbec
TiggerK -- 97 Shiraz Mataro
ufo -- 02 Shiraz Mataro
Baby Chickpea -- 01 Shiraz Malbec
Chris F -- 01 Shiraz Mataro
Dan + 1-- 99 Shiraz Malbec + something
Chris and Rhiannon --
Adair -- 2003 Shiraz + Option
bigred --

We're at 12 and most look confirmed...if we get enough we can do a 2nd table...

[catchnrelease]

Yes, I am attending with a 2003 Wendouree Shiraz plus something else.

Open it in the morning! Last offline I brought the same, and it needed all the air it could get.

[Adair]

Yes, I am attending with a 2003 Wendouree Shiraz plus something else.

Open it in the morning! Last offline I brought the same, and it needed all the air it could get.

Thanks catchnrelease. I am a fan of the Audouze method of decanting, so I will start this in the morning... means I get a morning taste as well.

[Hacker]

Rocket restaurant is booked for 6:30pm on Friday night.

http://www.rocketrestaurant.com.au/. They have acceptable stemware but I am still bringing an extra glass or two to cope with the volume of wine on offer. Numbers are either 11 or 12 depending if Dan's pilot mate can make it.

Really looking forward to see if the Cabernet blends prove superior to the Shiraz and Shiraz blends. Let's hope the cork gods are kind

[mse]

Hi all,

I have never bought any Wendouree wines before (only received Shiraz/Malbec and Shiraz/Mataro 12' from this mailer), I wish I had some 10+ years back vintages so that I could join you guys for the dinner.

Michael

[Adair]

Hi all,

I have never bought any Wendouree wines before (only received Shiraz/Malbec and Shiraz/Mataro 12' from this mailer), I wish I had some 10+ years back vintages so that I could join you guys for the dinner.

Michael

What Michael is saying is that he is willing to bring a bottle of DRC along with a young Wendouree in order to be at the dinner.

[mse]

Hi all,

I have never bought any Wendouree wines before (only received Shiraz/Malbec and Shiraz/Mataro 12' from this mailer), I wish I had some 10+ years back vintages so that I could join you guys for the dinner.

Michael

What Michael is saying is that he is willing to bring a bottle of DRC along with a young Wendouree in order to be at the dinner.

I wish Adair , the closest French prestige I could have acquired for at an affordable price was a bottle of 82' Petrus (it was mixed with 5 bottles of Penfold's Bin90A that were going for $250/bottle around 12 years ago), unfortunately the retail store owner picked that up and took it out when he inspected the box on checkout.

[oh the Bouquet!]

Thanks guys, brilliant. Really looking forward to the dinner and meeting you all. My plus one is, Mike, and I've asked him to let me know today what he is bringing.
I might have had a boy look but can't see what time's kick off at Rocket?

Cheers,
Dan

[Hacker]

I might have had a boy look but can't see what time's kick off at Rocket?

Cheers,
Dan

Hi Dan, booking from 6.30pm. Look forward to meeting you and Mike. If you know what he is bringing, just post later on.
Cheers,
Dave.

[bigred]

Bringing a 1996 cab malbec. The 1993's are at the bottom of the cellar. Cant be bothered. 1996 was a much better year. See you Friday. Might bring a Wendouree sticky also.

[Polymer]

Cool..I was already planning on bringing the 93 CM anyways so that works out..

The 96 I had a few months back was quite young..but approachable...will be interesting to see where this one is...

[Hacker]

Hacker -- 91 Shiraz
Polymer -- 93 Cab Malbec
TiggerK -- 97 Shiraz Mataro
ufo -- 02 Shiraz Mataro
Baby Chickpea -- 01 Shiraz Malbec and 2011 Raveneau Forets Chablis
Chris F -- 01 Shiraz Mataro
Dan -- 99 Shiraz Malbec + something
Mike -- ? TBC
Chris and Rhiannon -- 05 Pressings and 2 mystery wines
Adair -- 2003 Shiraz + Option
bigred --96 Cab Malbec

Great mix of wines over the last 15-20 years to make judgement on But it doesn't really matter what we think - the Wendouree phenomenon will no doubt continue with or without our input!

Don't forget, 6.30pm at Rocket, we are in the end room. Think about bringing an extra stem or two, and away we go!!

[bigred]

I am definitely in. Bringing a 1996 cabmalbec at hackers request.
See you all tonight. Hope the steak is still on the menu.

[chrisf]

I'll bring a champagne to start too...

[Hacker]

Aarggh.... I have an unplanned dentist visit to fix a tooth. Hope the anaesthetic wears off in time!

[Polymer]

Well, I opened the 93 CM to give it some air..on the plus side, it isn't corked...downside..I think this one is past it...given I've had this same wine a few different times in the last year, this isn't smelling like that...tried a bit and it seems ok but not great..texture is off too...Closing it back up because I'm not sure what it is going to do...Might be slightly cooked..cork doesn't look too weird though...*shrug*..

update: This ended up being a lot better with some time...but more on the Wendouree night later.

[TiggerK]

What an awesome night, thanks everyone!! I'll do a proper write up over the course of today and have it up sometime tomorrow...

But for those wondering, age and vintage are the key! 91 Shiraz was a highlight, as was the company and banter.

[TiggerK]

Ah Wonderful Wedouree, will I abandon thee, or be forever enchanted by your virtues?

...was roughly my tweet on my way to the offline. It’s fair to say that Wendouree are legendary, elusive and divisive. Many will know the history, they are one of Australia’s oldest wineries (from 1895), with a rustic and uncompromising approach to traditional techniques, style and marketing (an email address only arrived around 2006, cellar door is generally closed, they have no website and AFAIK only two photos exist of the winemaker when googled.... he's modest, want the focus to be wine, yet from some reports enjoys the power he wields over the allocations). Wines are exclusively sold through the mailing list, and even then numbers are mostly limited to 3, 6 or 12 each depending on the vintage and label. Nothing generates as much (slightly tedious yearly) forum posting here in Oz as the ‘got the Wendouree mailer, what colour is your crayon, oohh what will I get this year I wonder, hope no-one dumps any after buying as that’s unAustralian, hey I’ve got a signature on mine (aren’t I important), should I buy them all, hope I get my allocation… etc etc.’. But the bigger point of interest is the opinions on the wines themselves (yes, the important bit). Even amongst those who buy them regularly, opinions on how good they are vary dramatically! Not uncommon quotes like “I buy them every year, but still not sure if I like the style or not” certainly generate plenty of replies!

My personal experience with Wendouree is fairly limited, and I’m not on the mailing list. I sadly missed the last Wendouree night as I was overseas, but by all accounts, the Cabernet Malbec 1990 was by far the best wine of the night. This is in keeping with a general opinion that Wendouree are wines singularly designed to be cellared long term, although recent vintages are challenging that, and I can concur with many others that the wines (Cabernet based in particular) from 2012 are both approachable, high quality and cellarable. I've also enjoyed a 1990 Shiraz from Magnum back in 2010, but since then have only had mixed experiences with the smattering of random bottles at offlines here and there. Certainly nothing has ever made me sit up and really take notice (or inspired me to grab a pen and write a letter begging to get on the list (typing or emails aren’t generally considered). Honestly, my impression has always been of style over substance. So was this opinion about to change tonight…?

The theme was “Wonderful Wendouree, bring an older bottle, ideally from the 20th century”. Venue was one of our regular offline haunts, Rocket Restaurant in Chatswood, on Sydney’s North Shore. I heard mention that they had a new chef, but I didn’t confirm this on the night. The menu certainly had a different feel about it, we all ordered a la carte, and based on my own dishes and talk around the table, the food was mostly excellent, with just one pasta dish lacking a little bit of definition or punch for me. Always a top class space in the private room, great service and Charlie the Somm did a top job of being either helpful hands-on or backing off while we do our own wine handling. What started as 12 attendees dropped to 10 after a couple had issues making it, so once this fact was finally confirmed (and the Veuve NV polished off), we kicked off proceedings…

Some brief notes on the lineup in full… (inc a few extra backups and options wines of course!). My points are sometimes miserly (influenced by the impressive consistency and calibration of a fellow tasting buddy Cam Wheeler). Maybe I'm a touch more generous, but I’m no James Halliday dishing out 96 and 97 seemingly everywhere (have respect for the man, just not his points). For me, the + indicates more points likely with more cellar age, FWIW.

Veuve Clicquot Champagne NV – Dosage is apparent, yet retains some bite and freshness. Always a big debate on the quality of Aussie sparkling vs Champagne in the $30-$50 category. Certainly there are a select few good un’s (e.g vintage Clover Hill or Arras with some extra bottle age), but above $30, until shown otherwise, I’ll pretty much always go French. 89

2011 Raveneau 1er Cru Chablis Forets - Nose is impressive after the pop and pour. Saline, salty sea spray, some rounded peach and slate. Palate is on the restrained side, a little oak is noticeable but will integrate and some cellar time will really show its beauty. Big thanks to Danny for bringing this. 92

1993 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec – Kevin had some doubts about this upon opening it mid afternoon. But like an old Barolo, decanting time is the key. It’s quiet, slightly plush, yet screams restraint and elegance. A Bordeaux-like feel with the acid and earthy fine tannic structure. I really liked this, will it last longer? Probably, but not too long. 93
1996 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec – Started off on the nose with a VA lift, quite hot, some soy and jammy sweet red fruits. I spent some time enjoying the 1993, and 10 mins or so later when I returned to this, it had fallen apart, really porty, soy and brown sugar galore. Assume poor cork or storage? NR

1991 Wendouree Shiraz – I expected this to be the highlight, and it most definitely was. Well resolved, in harmony, plush, velvety and just delicious. Should hold quite a few more years, but I’d be enjoying it now or soon. A testament to the reputation of Wendouree. 95

From here on, the youthful structure of the wines was apparent. They were less resolved, tannins more firm and evident, fruit ripe and upfront. Still mostly enjoyable, but needing plenty of time!

1999 Wendouree Shiraz Malbec – Can I say ‘classic 1999 Aussie Shiraz nose?’ (Cheers Dave Vino ) Tannins are a feature, firm, robust, ripe. While it’s a bit of an unfair job following the 1991, this is a solid wine, just needing time. 91+
2001 Wendouree Shiraz Malbec – Bigger structure, more fruit weight and even firmer tannins than the 1999. More lifted and dense, but the style is quite similar. Needs 10 years. 91+


1997 Wendouree Shiraz Mataro – More advanced than the 01, some increased complexity is really welcomed here after the youthful simplicity present in the previous flight. The tannins are softer, wine feels more together and composed overall. Perhaps fruit lacks the purity of the 2001. My contribution, so might be slightly biased! Drink now or over the next 5 years. 92
2001 Wendouree Shiraz Mataro - I think this is a step up from the Shiraz Malbec from the same vintage for me. Wonderful fruit, fine, furry tannins but still youthful and just starting to come together . Needs 5 years at least, ideally 10 or 20 and should be a beauty. 92+

2002 Wendouree Shiraz Mataro – Not dissimilar to the 2001, just slightly more lifted and bigger fruit profile. Some disliked it and tipped it out quickly. I certainly preferred the 01, but the structure on this was solid, and like the 2001, it should show quite well in 10+ years. 90+
2002 Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon – Very odd nose. I note that other Wendouree 2002’s have shown badly, so I’m starting to wonder if there was something weird happening this vintage. This had fruit, but with slightly oxidative notes and some jersey caramel. A well regarded vintage for them, but I’m starting to doubt this. Hopefully just a bad bottle. NR

2003 Wendouree Shiraz – Adair’s wine finally arrived and he was rapturously announcing it’s arrival.  Ah, we always like the wines we bring. In all fairness though, it was a well composed wine. Seemed more advanced (in a good way) and thus more complete than the previous 5 wines. Drink now or over the next 10 years. 92
2003 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier (served blind) - What a fascinating counterpoint to the Wendouree. Thanks for bringing it Adair, and kudos to Dan for picking it blind, nice work. This was really good, textural, memorable and luckily only the merest hint of the dreaded ripe apricot. (Mick – I really think you would have liked it). Drink now or over the next 10 years. 93

2012 Marius Symphony Shiraz – Yeah, I really should have decanted it at the start of the night I know, but wasn’t sure if we’d need/want it. And given it’s rarity (i.e hype) this vintage, if it wasn’t needed, I’d bury it deep and give it the age it needs! But talk about Marius did eventuate, this wine was mentioned, a few had bought, but only Adair had tried it, so with a few drinks under the belt, naturally I took one for the team and opened it. Impressive, quality is evident, young obviously, still oak driven at this early stage. Will age amazingly well. Hard to rate, and especially so given the huge scores given by a few critics! But for me it’s a 92+

2002 Wendouree Muscat of Alexandria (375ml) – Medium gold, light toffee notes, clean and still fresh. Hint of spritz and an enjoyable lightness. Simple but enjoyable. 89
1993 De Bortoli Noble One – I was nervous about bringing this along as was unsure how it would show, but was hopeful! Hope was rewarded with result. A real depth, an unctuous Sauternes-style character, just the right balance and acid. For me it was a lovely way to finish the night with a delicious banana & caramel dessert. 93

2008 J.M Seleque Cuvee Partition Extra Brut - Nothing like finishing a night with some fresh, vibrant Champagne. Could have been nice half way through the reds to freshen the palate, but also a nice cleansing finish. With tired palates, perhaps some subtlety was lost, but I enjoyed it and loved the musical theme on the label. (although that treble clef and notation is a bit wonky) 90+

So did I eventually answer my opening question? Well, neither answer seems appropriate. Wendouree make some great wines, and if you get a good cork, the right varietal combo from a good vintage, given enough time, you will be very happy opening one. I read of stylistic changes happening around 2004 making the wines more ‘approachable’, yet other than the enjoyable 2012’s I can’t otherwise confirm this. Few wineries generate as much interest as Wendouree, they are both off the radar and very much in the red zone. One thing is for sure, they may be very elusive, but when you hit the right note, they’re world class wines.

Thanks to DavidM for organising and I look forward to any comments or notes from other attendees and non-attendees!! I'm sure there will be some differing opinions, such is the nature of Wendouree. We had a great time discussing the wines, a really enjoyable night.

A few pics…

[catchnrelease]

Sounds like a good night. Surprised about the '96 Cab Malbec, do you reckon it was poor storage or some other factor, or was the juice just not up to it. I have an opportunity to get a small amount of back vintage Wendouree and am tossing up what to get.

[JamieBahrain]

Nice write up.

It would seem cork taint up on the 7% plus that the winery experiences. The 96 and 02 look afflicted!

I have hosted a few great old Wendouree verticals though I regret broadening the line up and feel it would be better to show cabernet and shiraz based wines separately. Cabernet can be outstanding beyond 20 years and on both occasions it out performed the shiraz. I don't know if you can still source older wines via the secondary market, but I went back to the 60's, 70's with the bulk being the 80's in both line-ups. Of course, bearing in mind, you are now dealing with 7% + taint and Aussie red under the bed storage!

[Adair]

Thanks Tim for fantastic write-up, and the dinner presentation/pamphlet. Nothing I significantly disagree with

Just a few comments to add:
• I believe an evening of Wendouree wines doesn’t help show why Wendouree is so great, because we compare them to each other rather than seeing the difference with other wines. However, I don’t need convincing, so I love these evenings. Although, the general reaction to the Marius being over-oaked was interesting. Next year we should bring one or maybe two of the currently released range.
• With regards to the Marius, although it showed to be quite oak-driven in the company, the oak was fantastic, the fruit was exceptional and the quality obvious. Although I didn’t enjoy it as much as my first and only other taste of this wine, which was from a bottle opened for at least 24 hours and maybe 48 hours, the current hype does not seem to be out of place.
• I loved the Raveneau… yes, you are quiet Cam-like in your scoring.
• Yes, I thought the 2003 Wendouree Shiraz was exceptional, and not just as a result of my tipsy bravado! Actually, I thought I was more animated over the 2001s. More surprising to me though was the showing of the 2003 Clonakilla though. This is the first I have had since release and I believe it is looking better than the 2002s.
• Yes, the 2001 Shiraz Mataro did seem a little more impressive than the 2001 Shiraz Malbec, which surprised me.
• This is the first dinner I have finished an evening with a Champagne… may it not be the last!

Thanks again to Tim and David for their efforts in making the night a success, and also to everyone else for their generosity and company. It was a greatly enjoyable night… and I was even able to get to Little “A’s” by 7:45am the next day!

Adair

[Polymer]

I think Tim summed it up pretty well...and special thanks for the handout too! Great stuff! Special thanks to all those that brought extras, Danny, Dan, Chrisf, Tim, Paul, Adair...

91 Shiraz - I was looking forward to this as soon as Hacker said he was bringing it and it didn't disappoint. Great complexity, great texture, still had a lot of structure. This really is a great example of what Wendouree can do with proper age and it is still going to go another 10. My WOTN.
93 Cab/Malbec - I was worried when I first opened this..it seemed a bit candied and the bit I tried wasn't quite right...but by the time I got it to the restaurant the smell had changed quite a bit (also by the time I left for the restaurant the little bit left in the glass was looking good). Great texture...In a very good spot right now...It hasn't hit that completely evolved Wendouree spot..but this is a good example of a typical Wendouree with time..

I think seeing the Shiraz Mataros vs. the Shiraz Malbecs (one after the other) with similar age just reconfirmed that I prefer the Shiraz Mataro but then again I've never had a really old Shiraz Malbec either so who knows..

I don't think the 96 CM was corked...it has some characters similar to the ones I've had before..including a bit of sweetness on the nose and a slight hole in the texture...but something wasn't quite right. The ones I had before looked like they needed a bit more time to hopefully fill out (They've all been good, not great), this one was having some funny issues early on.
I don't think the 02 Cab was corked either..although maybe it had some really low levels...In general I think straight Cabs tend to suffer when shown against other Wendourees.

Raveneau - Great...nothing else to say really..

I thought the Marius had great acidity...it finished a bit funny..but I think part of it was it coming at the end of a long Wendouree night...To me the fruit seemed overly young...almost barrel sample type young....Oak was showing through as well but again, could be because of the wines we had before it..

The Clonakilla was really surprising...Apricot gone...Viognier VERY nicely integrated into the wine...Texture could have made it Old World but the fruit pointed New...Adair says 2003 which only makes it more confusing because there are quite a few very ripe old world wines that year...Dan blind picks it (which is amazing) and the options are done really early on...Great wine!

J-M Seleque - Very young..very high in acidity..I think it took half the people by surprise and it was on there no list...I liked it quite a bit but felt it needed more time...BTW the right time for Champagne is anytime . Start, middle, finish..the answer to that question is yes.

[camw]

Nice writeup Tim - love the fair scoring Impressed with the tasting but even more impressed that you got the ever elusive Danny to agree to be in a photo!

On the Veuve, the bottle I had late last year was leagues ahead of some that I tried many years ago. I looked it up and a new winemaker took over in 2009, and Tom Stevenson said that "the Yellow Label ... has become the fastest improving non-vintage Champagne of all the major houses" so as evidenced by your note, it is worth giving a shot if you can find a more recent shipment (assuming that yours was!).

[qwertt]

Thanks for the reports. I found it very interesting given that I have five of the wines tasted (and it appears five of the more popular) the 1991 Shiraz, the 1993 Cab Malbec, the 2003 Clonakilla, the 2012 Marius and the Veuve. Happy days.

[TravisW]

Did we really need that last photo?

Great write up guys. Very jealous.

Cheers, Travis.

[dave vino]

Great Write-Up Timbo!!

Looks like I missed a great night, what a shame. Was there any discussion on the theme for the next one? Food looks great.

Clonakilla maybe by the sounds of it? Mick will be there will bells on I reckon

[TiggerK]

Cheers Dave... Marius was the frontrunner... Did hear mention of Clonakilla and Mount Mary as well..

[Michael R]

Excellent write up Tim!
Like the boy band shot at the end too...Wrong Direction, maybe??

I'd be ok with a Clonakilla theme, just so long as there wasn't any SV involved
A Mount Mary theme sounds terrific though, whenever that gets approved I'll be there with bells on.

[ufo]

Great night which restored my faith, which was fading a bit with some not so good bottles I have tasted lately, in Wendouree.
91 Shiraz is definitely the WOTN. Thanks everyone for their contribution.