Rhone Valley - where to stay...

[timmspe]

Heading to Europe in June. With about 2 weeks in France, the rough plan is to start in Paris, spend a couple of nights in Lyon, a couple of nights in Rhone Valley, a few nights in Nice / French Rivera, and then find our way in to Germany. Rhone Valley travel info seems to be a bit hard to come by, so I was wondering if the enthusiasts among you might have some experience to draw on...

We're aiming for more of a rural location in Southern Rhone. The potentially cliche' / obvious choice seems to be Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but we've also considered staying at other places nearby like Orange. Anyway, we're sort of guessing a fair bit here. Can you recommend any areas or towns where it is worth setting up camp for a couple of days?

Also, any insight in to how wine tourism operates in France? Do they have cellar doors open to the public like in Australia? Or is it more of a by appointment only type thing? I see there are a couple of companies doing wine tours, and while they can be a bit expensive, we'd consider it, but we're interested in finding out what our options might be... Are there any Rhone producers that you can recommend? Are there any places with an 'Artisans of Barossa' type set-up? Hah. Pardon me if that's too crude a comparison! Any info or tips will be very much appreciated! Thanks!

[timmspe]

I've had a read of this thread - http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10717. There's some excellent info there! But I thought there might be some more recent information, or info that is a bit more specific to this question

[JDSJDS]

There are many gites in the Southern Rhone that are good value. In June, you might have to book for a week, though. There aren't too many places to stay in CDP; I usually stay in the Gigondas/Vacqueyras area, which is only about a 20 minute drive to CDP. There are lots of places to stay in that area, gites and other types of places. It's worth taking a look around Avignon while you are in area, and many of the Cotes du Rhone-Villages (e.g., Sablet, Cairanne, Rasteau) are nice too.

Most producers in the Southern Rhone are open most days, so you don't have to make an appointment, but if you do make an appointment, you often get to taste some additional bottles. Beaucastel requires an appointment, as does Pegau in CDP. Making an appointment also means you can ask if there' an English speaker available (if you don't speak French). English speakers are becoming more common. Grab a map of each region/appellation at the local visitor centre, then wander around to the producers you want to visit - no need to use a wine tour.

The Mosel is an awesome place to visit in Germany...

[timmspe]

JDSJDS, thank you very much. Excellent info there. I'd be keen to hear your advice about Mosel. I might send you a PM about that.

[odyssey]

I can highly, highly recommend La Bastide des Anges. It is situated on a quiet isle just north of Avignon, in the middle of the Rhone river. 30 mins drive to Chateauneuf du Pape, and 5 mins to Avignon. #2 on tripadvisor and deservedly so. We were saying we could easily have spent a week there recuperating from a bit of travel fatigue.

http://www.la-bastide-des-anges.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... vence.html

PS book in to see the wonderful Laurence Feraud at Domaine du Pegau.... friendly people, beautiful wines (of course), a big fluffy friendly dog, and just try to stop yourself from collecting Cuvee Reservee at 35 euro per bottle!

[odyssey]

A few other amazing places to stay (from our honeymoon in 2012). We did the similar to you, just a shorter distance (Germany was too far to squeeze in). We had 4 weeks doing a loop: Alsace, Switzerland (Grindelwald), Alba, Avignon, Lyon, Macon, Beaune, Chablis, Reims, Paris.

My wife is very picky about great accomodation and I am picky about B&B hosts. So we booked the generally friendliest, highest (#1-#3) rated B&Bs on tripadvisor and can totally recommend the following:


Reims
La Parenthese
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... denne.html

Beaune
Les Jardins de Lois
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... gundy.html

Southern Burgundy (convenient stop on the way to Macconais/Beaujolais)
Le Portails Bleus
http://www.burgundyblueholidays.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... gundy.html

Lyon
Chambres d'hotes Loft
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... Alpes.html

And as discussed, La Bastide Des Anges just out of Avignon.

We also stayed in Chablis and would totally, totally recommend the town for having really humble, friendly people with the (expectedly) excellent wine.

However, we wouldn't recommend our accomodation to stay at (Le Hostellerie de Clos) as the rooms smelt very damp/mildewey... but the food at the attached restaurant is amazing especially the lobster dishes, worth eating at if you spend the night in town. We wanted to stay at La Maison du Moulin des Roches but it was booked out (it was their annual vintage fair that weekend).

Alba is a good stop for any food and wine pilgrimage. We very highly recommend:

La Terrazza Sulle Torri
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... dmont.html

Oh and if you go to Alba, one of the top restaurants in Italy is Piazza Duomo... be sure to book in!!

http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restauran ... dmont.html

Jamie is the man to see about Piedmonte (he has amazing threads about it over at Bert's place... at the risk of bringing Gavin's wrath I will not link directly but do a google search for "bert wine piedmont jamie hk").
I know he is a fan of Restaurant Bovio, which is also excellent (if not quite as stunning foodwise as Duomo):
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restauran ... dmont.html

Alsace is stunning scenery and Riesling any time of year and a good place to have a couple of nights is Ambiance Jardin, Diebolsheim (which is also conveniently on the German border and 20 mins from the Black Forest):
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Rev ... lsace.html

[Mark Carrington]

I stayed at Hotel La Garance, just outside Bedoin, as part of a cycling trip. It's on the classic climb up Mont Ventoux. We had a basic room in an annexe but weren't concerned, in view of purpose of trip. There are better rooms in the main building. Positive reviews on Trip Advisor. Two decent restaurants within 200 yards (both with short but good wine lists). Ch. Pesquié nearby & C9P, Vacqueyras & Gigondas fairly close. The latter is a lovely village & the Maison du Vin has all producers available for free tasting & purchase. I believe Vacqueyras has a similar set up.
I normally e-mail in advance but in Southern Rhône it not always necessary. Googling will provide details, though if you manage to obtain a reply from Santa Duc you will have been more successful than me.....
For Mosel, appointments sensible as they are usually small set ups. English was spoken at the four producers we visited. Travelling times are longer than you would expect. If you wish to buy take cash - most don't accept cards.
Just spotted the comments above (!) about Le Hostellerie de Clos -booked a one night stay last weekend, as part of this summer's jaunt to Loire/Burgundy.

[odyssey]

Just spotted the comments above (!) about Le Hostellerie de Clos -booked a one night stay last weekend, as part of this summer's jaunt to Loire/Burgundy.

I wouldn't worry about it, it depends what room you get, and it is not terrible, just a bit mouldy, old, and antiseptic smelling with a darker section of carpet in the carpet corners (ie. former wet patch). It also depends which part you are put in (we were in the main building above reception).

Just that we were looking for the most comfortable places we could find (as you do on a honeymoon) and it didn't quite fit the bill.

But the food is awesome and makes up for it (although if you do stay somewhere else you can still eat there).

Cheers

[Mark Carrington]

Thanks for the clarification. I'm was aware of mixed reviews but a relative reckons it the best in Chablis.....I've passed through the town before but would like to spend a bit more time visiting producers.